what map are you using? you said the 'stock style' map from cobb had it idling perfectly?

did you test the neutral switch and check the ECT?

 

i'm going to uninstall the map today and see how it holds an idle...

i have not tested the neutral switch, not sure how to test it...

where would i test/ check on the ECT? i looked on the board but did not find any info..

 

you can monitor ECT on the AP, or even the Camp2. observe to see if there are any abnormal readings or fluctuations that could be related to ur idle.

there's a thread to test the neutral switch. search for the DIY.

 

testing the neutral switch is quite simple. The only hard part is getting the switch out of the transmission.

 

im going to check that out this weekend. correct me if i'm wrong, if i put the clutch in should the car idle if the neutral switch is a problem?

 

In theory, yes. Your datalog shows some severe swings between rich and lean with the control system chasing it. Just based on the rpm data alone I would think neutral switch, but although I've never seen a datalog of a bad neutral switch the control system behaviour is not what I would have expected. It's possible that there may be more than one thing going on, but thats just a wild guess.

 

Yes, i'm also not sure about the rich/lean swings because they aren't corresponding to the trims. There may be something else going on, but he needs to check things one at a time. But also, it's hard to stare at that log and and judge much at 30 samples a second...

 

ess?

PCM?

i'm changing out the whole ignition this week, i notice in the morning it is not as quick to start up(sounds like misfires), and its been giving me a hard idle after i've been driving for a whole. an no i'm not having any hot start problems. so i assume that rules out compression issues?

 

quit swapping out parts and do some basic analysis, the ESS is the simplest sensor you can test (ohms measurement), I have one I can send you but I'd rather you spend the money on a multi-meter

 

yes your right(stop swapping parts) i will grab a ohms tester today from a local store. will there be a certain measurement i will be looking for?

 

950-1250 ohms at room temperature

 

thanks man. i'm going to work on it this week or weekend.

 

so today, i was searching online about ways to find a vac leak, one way was to use a cigar and blow smoke into a vac line and see where the smoke comes out. guess what? after doing that i found the leak after all of these months... coming from the SSV it was not bolted on tightly and i can visibly see the gasket..smoke just poured out of that area!! man i'm soo stoked.

 

finally fixed it! it finally idles and runs amazing! i pulled the gasket off the SSV and it was mangled some how.

 

great! glad you posted about it. Nice little technique

 

thanks man. i'm sooo stoked right now! i can finally continue my tuning with MM!!!!

 

Congrats on fixing this dude. The cigar thing is a pretty awesome tip. Didn't you have this issue before replacing your ssv though? Was the gasket busted both before and after you replaced it?

 

Nice, congrats. And an excuse to smoke a cigar

 

thanks guys, now i have to figure out why am i running lean esp on the base map from MM

 

correct me if i am wrong, but that's why they called it base map, just to make sure that you can run your car. some base map lean and some of them rich. that's why you are not supposed to boost it...you should wait for MM to tune your car...then it will be different...

steven

 

you need an excuse

 

not really but I quit smoking cold turkey after 15 years so I only smoke them on rare occasions.

 

I hope you dont quit on the turbo project like you did with smoking

 

gotcha. i've been running that map based upon the assumption that its supposed to be rich. so even now that the car is fixed i'm just a little paranoid. so i'm trying to run through all of the problems and fixed them before tuning again. considering that i may have to renew my sessions.

 

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=3569027