I was just trying to make sure he didn't drill the siphon out. Some (most) people don't read the entire thread. It makes the siphon not work, so I would say fail rather than to no avail. The cap you are referring to is labeled as "pop off valve" in the diagram on the first post with all the other information.


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good way to do it

 

Great DYI. Do you have any min/max fuel pressure values to help test a pump? I'm thinking I have a weak pump but can't find any values on this forum.

 

Stock pump?

Often a weak pump fails when it is warm..ie running for a while. Flow values for a Walbro are easy to find...stock not so much

If you are questioning a stock pump that is aging...just replace it....

 

Since you live in IN, it's going to be a while before it gets warm enough for a heat related failure to show up. When it does happen, you'll be near or under a 1/8 tank of fuel. Adding fresh gas will usually temporally cure the problem. I had the problem when I drove down to Daytona in Feb one time. By the time I got back north in to Georgia, there was no hint of a problem.

 

Help.
I have S2 fuel pump. I buy fuel pump aem and are 2big. Another option to upgrade the pump in tank. My Rx8 is turbo. I can use the factory fuel pump at 9psi?

 

Say what???

 

Yes .... no problem .

 

So have you guys noticed a crack developing on the bottom side of the upper housing discharge nipple. My buddy was having fuel pressure issues, found the crack and clamped a house over it and whalla fixed...i looked and both of my used fuel pump assemblies have the issue. I wonder if this has been an issue all along and why fuel pumps are burning out.

 

Does this fuel pump motor sound OK? Somehow the alternating chirping sound doesn't sound proper to me. I replaced the fuel pump motor a few days ago, and used the old hose clip on the outlet of the pump motor, just twisted it tight with pliers. Could that be leaking?

 

I have an issue with my fuel pump not starting up and it's really got me annoyed as the 8 is my primary vehicle.

I thought at first the pump was gone so I ordered the Walbro one from BHR and installed it accordingly. Turned the ignition on and did not hear it even start up. I got a 12 volt test bulb and checked where the electrical issue might be. The fuse is working, the relay is receiving power (even while the key is not on), and the connector all the way by the assembly is receiving power on one wire too! I connected the pump directly to the battery for a split second and it is in working order... What can the issue be? I had just replaced the transmission, turned the car on after deflooding it, drove it down the road and when I switched into second it cut off as if it was not getting any fuel.

Also, when I turn the key on the sending unit is working as the gauge moves up.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what can be causing this issue?

 

Λ Try hooking up a ground wire to see if it works then, maybe there's a short in the wiring itself.

 

There is also a resister for hi/lo flow. If they dropped the engine and trans as a unit it is possible they didn't get that plugged back in well. If I remember correctly, it is mounted under or near the air pump on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I would check that for a loose connection.

 

I actually did hook up a ground wire directly from the back and it did nothing to kick on the pump. What surprises me is the fact that the sending unit is working which I'm assuming is powered from that same connector within goes to the assembly.

The transmission and the engine was not dropped at the same time as one unit.

Also, when I turn the ignition I don't feel a click in the fuel relay which I've swapped out with similar relays on the box itself. If I use a test bulb to the connector at the end by the assembly, it lights up in one hole as it should.

The car was shifted into second gear when it cut off.

 

If the car shut off when shifting to another gear and no other relays connectors or parts in the fuel system are loose or bad then the next thing to look at might be the ECU or the sensor that tells it what gear it is in. There is a different fuel map for just about every gear. Maybe it shut down when it didn't get a reading from the transmission and the ECU had a stroke. Just a wild guess.

Wish I could be more help. Sounds like your chasing all the wires and main parts. Only other thing I can think about is the brain.

 

I finally figured it out.. the fuses were working according to the test light. I went ahead and started pulling fuses and saw them burnt by the stem and decided to replace all of the ones that even slightly seemed blown and it started working!

 

Hi all, my ported NA suffer from fuel starvation during high-G left turns on track circuits even when tank is full with a new oem pump.

i'm thinking of going the second pump route, anyone got a DIY on the modification?
or i'm better off just changing to the aeromotive pump?

Thank you.

 

if it is doing it on a full tank you need a new pump...or something else is wrong

You can go to a higher output pump and it will help a bit..because the siphon gets more output and works better

 

my stock pump is barely a month old, unless it's already defective when new?
any ideas what else could be wrong if it's not the pump?

MaD666MaX at page 27 suffers the same problem as me and seems like having a secondary pump is the ticket?

 

I swapped for a s2 pump and now its gone

 

Where are you guys getting these series 2 pump assemblies? Only place I found new is the dealership and mazmart which are expensive. So I'm looking around for used, not having good luck obviously.

 

I'm sure there's a used one in some salvage yard somewhere ....

 

Yea been looking local, nothing turned up yet.

 

Has anyone had an issue with installing the Aeromotive Fuel Pump? It seems as if the OEM fuel sock will not fit the AM.

 

Just use the fuel sock that aeromtove provides.