Is this a clue?

 

haha ... no , not at all .

 

You removed the canister filter leaving a larger fuel cup.

 

Nope . Patience Igor . I just don't want to divulge this and have people go off and try it if I'm not 100% sure . Unlike the OP of his thread , who erroneously created a market for "upgrade" pumps via this thread.

 

Ahh, I'm patient. I haven't had a flow prob yet. Ive still got a little fab work and lots of tuning before i get there.

 

if it is the filters being blocked, then it would be happen all the times not only during low fuel and left corners?

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

 

Correct ..............there is more than one issue . I wasn't talking about the clogging filter being the cause of high g cornering issue .....Altough it certainly would make it worse.

 

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-maj...orners-254079/


.............

 

Great info in this thread, after reading it along with some others, I went ahead and ordered the DW200 from BHR.

As for my problem, it was pretty specific.

Fuel cut after hard left turn at a track. Temps were over 90. I filled up the tank and it still did it.

Simulating on the street is not possible as I would accelerate to about 100, hard brake before left hand 180 degree turn followed by hard (well its stock) acceleration up to what should be over 100. It would get to 80 before cutting out to 76 or 78 then back up to 80.

 

Just wanted to post my results.
I upgraded to a series 2 pump and assembly. I was on track last night, stayed on until one tick below a 1/4 tank when I finished my last session. No fuel cut or any problems at all.
I should have done the series 2 assembly a long time ago.

 

Just did this yesterday morning. I upgraded my stock pump to a Deatschwerks DW200. Went with it over the Walboro because the failure rates on the Walboro seem to be pretty high, and I got a DW200 for an awesome deal. Not much of a huge difference but some of the vibrations I've been having with the A/C on have gone away.

Seemed like my stock pump was on the way out anyway. Make sure you guys melt the pop off cap on the Venturi valve. My torch ran out of gas and my bro took the soldering iron ended up heating up a phillips screwdriver on the stove and used that to melt the cap and it worked like a charm. The jobs a million times easier with a fuel pump removal tool too btw!

 

I think my pump is on the way out.. After 40 minutes on the highway the car sounds more "put put" when I get to the city and feels generally sluggish. Thinking if I should just replace the whole thing OEM or just the pump itself..

 

Guessing is not a financially effective way to maintain a vehicle.

 

Considering that the OEM pump contains the fuel filter.... you would be best served by replacing the whole unit

 

Yes, thats what I've been thinking. I have just been reading that people have only been replacing the pump and cleaning the rest..

Team. I feel like I read and read solutions to all these symptoms my car has and get so many possible solutions. Just trying to get more accurate places to start before I start replacing things.

 

This is a bad idea IMO unless you have a low mileage assembly and you are putting a higher flow pump in for going forced induction or something. A new complete pump assembly is cheap, why only replace one part of it. I never understand putting a brand new pump into a high mileage assembly.

 

The more accurate place to start is a proper diagnosis. The fact that there are so many possibilities is exactly the point.

 

9k that's what I thought. The whole thing is around $300 from mazmart. not exactly cheap for me, but affordable.

Team, I will look into a proper diagnosis.

 

I'd recommend the S2 filter, but it does require modifying the wiring connector, siphon hose, and discharge hose connections. It's just a better design overall and the filter is replaceable to boot.

 

The s2 filter is replaceable? I must have missed this? How so?

 

You have to disassemble it, silly.

If you want to install a higher flow pump for FI then the Deatschwerks DW65c is a direct fit. There are also Denso options too. It is also replaceable and doesn't require the discharge line modification like the S1.

The relief valve is self-contained in a metal housing and replaceable too. It doesn't require any modification like on the S1 relief valve when installing a high flow pump.

Installing an S2 fuel pump assy on an S1 does require modifying the siphon hose and fuel pump discharge hoses to work with it. See the DIY thread (for those not familiar with this already)

.

 

I can't find where I had been reading about the Fuel Pump replacements. Was talking about ordering from Rock Auto and the Airtex pump vs OEM. Anyone have the Airtex replacement? Thoughts?

 

I have bought two Airtex pumps from Advance Auto and both were OEM Aaram pumps in an OEM assembly. But, a guy recently got an Airtex pump from Rock Auto and it was different so I'm not sure why they have different versions and why the Airtex units I have bought have been OEM assemblies.

 

Ohhh you mean the little filter sock...i thought you were talking about the filter unit contained within the walls of the canister itself. Bummer.

 

This should be a sticky on the front page to warn new people stumbling upon this page. The information needs to be updated.

I also have done the DW200 pump swap and haven't experienced the results I expected. If I am below 7/8 tank when running an autocross going around high G left corners the fuel pressure will "drop off the table" as I accelerate out of the corners.

Guess we should have listened to Olddragger all along. He probably posted on 10 different occasions in this thread that an S2 pump assembly worked for him with excellent results.