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Esmeril Turbo Kit Review & Pics

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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 07:00 PM
  #451  
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Erich
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wow, I think you really can tell a difference with that Lucas Oil stuff! I also went from a tank of 91 oct. to a tank of 93 oct., but I think it's definately a little smoother and feels like a tiny boost from just 93 octane without the Lucas mix-in.

Last edited by 3DZukini; Apr 16, 2008 at 08:28 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 09:10 AM
  #452  
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Lucky! I don't think they sell 93 octane here anymore
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 09:47 AM
  #453  
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Originally Posted by staticlag
Lucky! I don't think they sell 93 octane here anymore


damn man.... that sucks...i put 92 one time in the car and felt like **** doing it....that's all that gas station had. 93 is pretty much everywhere around here tho
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 07:29 PM
  #454  
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^Yeah, we have 87, 89, and 93 here. I've never even seen 91.
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 12:32 AM
  #455  
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i have never even seen 93 her in vegas. its all 91 here.
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 12:15 PM
  #456  
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Originally Posted by staticlag
If you look carefully at the picture, the hump on the bottom on the left is the wastegate, and the small hose looking thing in the center is some vacuum tube that I used to re-route the radiator overflow tube. If its going to blow off antifreeze it will exit in the middle of the bottom of the car, instead of directly on the radiator fans This hose is attached to the center main crossmember under the engine (bar looking thing)

Speedbumps are a no-no when you are lowered with this kit.

Right now its on mazdaspeed springs and shocks, with 245/40/18 azenis.
Having the wastegate that low would scare me. Especially if you live in a city with bad roads and crap all over them. Why coudn't they off placed it a little higher?
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 12:21 PM
  #457  
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Originally Posted by devildog1679
Having the wastegate that low would scare me. Especially if you live in a city with bad roads and crap all over them. Why coudn't they off placed it a little higher?
Simply not enough room in that part of the car. You could get a smaller one, but it would flow less.
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 12:26 PM
  #458  
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the wastegate position concerns me as well.....static..is it really that low? i mean some places like arenas/malls have speedbubmps that are unable to avoid......would a big angle be ok? mine is lowered 1.25" ....
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 12:37 PM
  #459  
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Originally Posted by importshowoff84
the wastegate position concerns me as well.....static..is it really that low? i mean some places like arenas/malls have speedbubmps that are unable to avoid......would a big angle be ok? mine is lowered 1.25" ....
I'm doing my research now cause next April I'm going FI. So far I like the sound of this kit, my only concern is the wastegate. It would suck to knock it against a speedbump. Do they make it with a smaller one?
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 12:44 PM
  #460  
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Note that the wastegate is aligned with the wheels, so you should be able to clear a speedbump just fine. Now if you run over a football-sized rock you'd have problems but if you let that happen it's your own fault
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 12:44 PM
  #461  
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Here is my expereince with speedbumps:

Stock car:
Avoid them, go slow and you should be fine for all but the hugest and most absurd ones.

Lowered on Mazdaspeed springs (-.9 inch) with me alone in car:
-Small bumps require no slowing, medium sized ones are ok if you go slow and at an angle.
-The taller ones might as well be a 10ft wall, With just me in the car I would scrape at my local mall and movie theater, I park across the street and walk.
-With 4 people in the car any speedbump is an impossible barrier.

Lowered, me alone in car, Esmeril Wastegate:
-Take every speedbump slow and you will be fine for the medium ones.
-For any medium tall or narrow looking speedbump take the bump impossibly slow and at an angle. It is across from the tire, so that will protect it and it will raise when the car raises, so if you go slow its fine. But if you go fast, the spring & shock will compress when it hits the speedbump, the chassis will lower and you will scrape the wastegate adjustment screw if you don't take it off or tighten it down(happened to me already, I tried to go too fast over the bump, I was on the phone like an idiot).
-Huge speedbumps, don't even try it.
-4 people in car, don't even try it.

Ah, the price of having a sweet car.

Last edited by staticlag; Apr 18, 2008 at 12:53 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 12:50 PM
  #462  
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That being said, after I learned to be more cautious than I already am, I haven't had a problem, I've gone over a pretty big one and several medium ones with the wastegate and haven't scraped again.
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 12:51 PM
  #463  
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Originally Posted by importshowoff84
the wastegate position concerns me as well.....static..is it really that low? i mean some places like arenas/malls have speedbubmps that are unable to avoid......would a big angle be ok? mine is lowered 1.25" ....
If your car is lowered 1.25" you already know what to do and what speedbumps you shouldn't even try, it shouldn't change things much.
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 12:55 PM
  #464  
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Thanks, that takes care of my concerns. Just use common sence
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 07:14 PM
  #465  
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^ Ditto
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 09:16 PM
  #466  
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does anyone know if the mazsport ignition solution is goin to work great with this kit since chris said we have spark blow out past a certain psi .... so will it ork and push us to the 400 hp mark without the spark blowout
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 10:09 PM
  #467  
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yes.. but there are now cheaper alternatives to the mazsport solution you may want to look into
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Old Apr 19, 2008 | 01:27 AM
  #468  
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which are????? i would love to know ...
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Old May 12, 2008 | 10:23 AM
  #469  
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Static just curious as to how u wired your INT-X did you extend the wires to reach the new battery location?
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Old May 12, 2008 | 10:33 AM
  #470  
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Originally Posted by Mafia
Static just curious as to how u wired your INT-X did you extend the wires to reach the new battery location?

You can make it work by playing with the routing of the wires (although we have found some differences in the length of wire between Intx's) but there are terminals that fit on to the larger ring terminals that come with the Intx for an easy extension.

Or you can just cut the wire and solder an extension.

The best way to run the wires would be near the front of the car in front of the coolant tank.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 07:13 PM
  #471  
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ok so i got the car running the other day. BUT when we fired it up the car started to surge. now when we start it the car chokes out. If i try to hold the rpm at 2.5k the car drops rpm almost to the point of stallng and comes back up. The boost gauge shows it pulling 20psi in and obvious goes down as the cars rpm falls.

The car is a 04' 6speed with 30,000km it ran fine before installing the turbo so I must have missed something? Please help I'd let to have the car running for the long weekend
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Old May 14, 2008 | 08:16 PM
  #472  
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Originally Posted by Mafia
BUT when we fired it up the car started to surge.
What does it mean "the car started to surge"?

Car don't surge, please define your problem using appropriate terminology, or give us a more elaborate description.

Originally Posted by Mafia
now when we start it the car chokes out. If i try to hold the rpm at 2.5k the car drops rpm almost to the point of stalling and comes back up. The boost gauge shows it pulling 20psi in and obvious goes down as the cars rpm falls.
you mean 20HG? Vacuum? the turbo will not push boost in neutral (only slightly at a high RPM if revved aggressively) but definitely not at 2.5K

Sounds like you are either
1. Have a pinched hose between manifold and the Int-X, so the signal is distorted.
2. your int-X map is screwed up, and needs to be tuned. (have you adjusted the map by any chance?)

What do your AF ratios read when this happens?
Have you given the car a chance to warm up? If your water temp map is off, it may act funky and go lean or rich at different coolant temps. Same could be with the air temp map.

Last edited by rotorocks; May 14, 2008 at 08:20 PM.
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Old May 15, 2008 | 08:27 AM
  #473  
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Originally Posted by rotorocks
What does it mean "the car started to surge"?

Car don't surge, please define your problem using appropriate terminology, or give us a more elaborate description.



you mean 20HG? Vacuum? the turbo will not push boost in neutral (only slightly at a high RPM if revved aggressively) but definitely not at 2.5K

Sounds like you are either
1. Have a pinched hose between manifold and the Int-X, so the signal is distorted.
2. your int-X map is screwed up, and needs to be tuned. (have you adjusted the map by any chance?)

What do your AF ratios read when this happens?
Have you given the car a chance to warm up? If your water temp map is off, it may act funky and go lean or rich at different coolant temps. Same could be with the air temp map.
What I mean is if I don't play with the throttle the car will stall right away but if I hold the rpm say at 2.5 the car will drop rpm and almost die out and bounce back up. 20Hg yes my mistake. I will verify that the vaccum hose is not pinched in any way and no I have not touched any of the maps Chris loaded for me.

I do have AFR readings ill try to take note of them tonight while its doing it. We got the car warm yesterday but not completely to operating temp.

Any other ideas if its not the int-x vaccum hose?

Last edited by Mafia; May 15, 2008 at 08:30 AM.
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Old May 20, 2008 | 09:04 AM
  #474  
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Originally Posted by Mafia
What I mean is if I don't play with the throttle the car will stall right away but if I hold the rpm say at 2.5 the car will drop rpm and almost die out and bounce back up. 20Hg yes my mistake. I will verify that the vaccum hose is not pinched in any way and no I have not touched any of the maps Chris loaded for me.

I do have AFR readings ill try to take note of them tonight while its doing it. We got the car warm yesterday but not completely to operating temp.

Any other ideas if its not the int-x vacuum hose?
If it tries to bounce up and down and stalls, it is a pretty typical behavior when the idles are not properly tuned.
It gets too lean in the normal 20-18HG range so it begins to open throttle and go into higher pressure range in order to attempt to richen up. you may see it beginning to pull 15-10 HG, and it is still too lean, it will stall.
Idles is a very finicky thing with Int-x, and you just need to play with it until you get it right.
You need to adjust fuel in the Idle, and the 1000 rpm range to get it right.
Welcome to the world of Int-X
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Old May 20, 2008 | 10:44 AM
  #475  
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Originally Posted by Mafia
What I mean is if I don't play with the throttle the car will stall right away but if I hold the rpm say at 2.5 the car will drop rpm and almost die out and bounce back up. 20Hg yes my mistake. I will verify that the vaccum hose is not pinched in any way and no I have not touched any of the maps Chris loaded for me.

I do have AFR readings ill try to take note of them tonight while its doing it. We got the car warm yesterday but not completely to operating temp.

Any other ideas if its not the int-x vaccum hose?
Assuming the car is starting cold, then the problem is likely the after starup enrichment setting. More gas = better idle. I have mine set to somewhere around 27% try between 27-35 and see what works for you. This is the extra fuel added for the first 30 seconds of startup to get the idle stable. It is in one of the options pages.

If you are having trouble starting up when the engine is hot you need to adjust the water map a little.

If the car has been running for a while and gets past startup just fine but dies at stoplights you need to add more fuel to your idle map in probably the 20-15inHG range.
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