I have a HKS EGT on the way and was thinking of where i can mount the probe. Looking for any greddy turbo kit owners that have aftermarket egt probes. where did you mount it? i was thinking of using my racing beat air pump delete block off plate (drill and tap the plate) but not sure if that area is too far? Im hoping this mounting location would be acceptable.
Any input would be appreciated.

thanks

Greg

 

That wont be too accurate there

 

if you put it downstream of the turbo, make it as lost to the turbo as possible. its not really about how accurate the readings are its more about changes in the reading

 

Been researching this a bit and seems like having it on the manifold close to the exhaust port is the ideal way to go in terms of 'accurate' (whatever that means). Particularly for the rear exhaust port since the rear housing runs hotter.

Though in most cases of usefulness, it is there to monitor changes like WingleBeast stated.

 

you can put it forward of the turbo to monitor the hot rotor, but remember that everything will melt or at least have a shortened lifespan in high enough heat. i melted my first fitting putting it too close, not much room up there once the turbo is in too, so i moved it downstream. works fine just had readings 200 degrees cooler.

put it in before you turbo, get a good idea of 'normal' readings. it will make your life easier trying to see trouble

 

It needs to be in the turbo inlet.
Mount it at the back of the manifold, just below the turbo flange.

 

thanks for the info..do you have any pictures of the sensor mounted (want to see the angle) and can the egt sensor be drilled and tapped while the manifold is still on the car? Apparently supra owners will run the engine while putting a hole through the manifold to avoid any metal shavings entering.

 

Since there is no overlap in a rotary engine, you could just cap the exhaust and pressurize it at the air pump port.
But, really, if you are careful, there will be very little if any debris and it will go through the turbine at relatively low speed on its way out of the manifold.

 

ok makes me feel better, thanks for the info jeff.

 

Do yourself a favor and do it properly. You will take it off and more if it doesn't go well the half-assed way ....

 

the cast iron is actually pretty soft to drill through, you will be surprised with some good cutting oil. 301 stainless on the other hand....

 

This is the exhaust side. Nothing will go through the engine.
Even if the technique is sloppy, the first time it is run, the debris will go out the tailpipe.
The trick is to get that air moving before the turbo spools that first time.

 

yeah, it will go through the turbine side of the turbo though and just not worth the chance IMO, maybe I got burned too many times in the past by trying to do it the easy way rather than the right way

 

Though I agree fundamentally, this particular bit of "short-cut" has a fairly established successful history.

 

While I understand that EGT is useful information and measuring it close to the ports improves accuracy . The info you might get from the OEM sensor could be equally useful if one was only looking for a comparison .

If you really wanted good information and were going to the trouble of fitting a probe , why not do it at the manifold and measure the temp coming from each separate rotor . I know there are dual gauges that are made specifically for this purpose for rotaries . I think you even showed me one Greg ?

 

a single point is basically useless IMO, you've got to hit both rotor exhaust port outlets at a minimum otherwise one rotor could be extra rich and the other rotor extra lean, but a single reading may only give you the average of the two combined and make it all look A-OK.

 

As an adjunct to tuning with an engine management system that allows individual cylinder trim, I agree.

However, as a general indicator of which side of the torque peak you are on (with a properly flowed set of injectors), the turbo collector is a satisfactory placement.

 

If you want to chance your engine on assumptions rather than one more EGT point, then sure ....

but I'll withdraw the useless comment as it is still better than none as you point out

 

It is no more of a "chance" than using a wideband, which is even less "accurate" since it not only averages the two rotors but measures an ongoing process from a vantage point that is more than a complete cycle behind reality.

Engine tuning is not about the raw numbers, anyway.

 

yes, but common wideband + dual EGT on a 2 rotor will pretty much tell you what's what

otherwise we are now arguing personal opinionated preference

 

True, provided you know what you are looking at.
Otherwise, it is worse than nothing.

Tuning an automobile with EGT requires that you already know how to tune accurately without it.