Dietbudda

SO, I just handed over the keys from my dad's KO4 swap and now I have time to focus on my build. I've got my beater car up and running and anything on the 8 that needed to be taken care of before a build like this has been done. New trans, clutch and flywheel, pads, rotors and lines, and other maintence items.

I have my path figured out, just want to run it by the experienced before I pull this trigger of mine. I was looking for info roughly 4 months ago and got a lot of help (Esp. Mawnee) so I’m hoping you guys can catch any foreseeable issues ahead of time.

I've decided to have the manifold and downpipe fabbed up by a friend of mine that owns a shop nearby. I'm looking to run a setup very similar to that of the emersil kit with the turbo mounted straight forward next to the engine.
Will a manifold like that allow me to continue using the OMP?

I plan on running a GT3076R, 44mm Tial Wastegate on the hot side of things.
I've been trying to decide between a GT2873, 3076 or gt3582 but i'm unsure of powerbands yet. I'm hoping to figure that out in the next month as the manifold is getting made up.
Any impression or input of different turbos and thier powerbands would be awesome.

As for the cold side, a FMIC, WMI and an 86mm I.D. Blow through MAF housing.
I've always placed my WMI nozzle in front of the TB and after the MAF sensor to keep the TB clean. Will this present an issue with the RX8?

As for tuning, I’m almost completely sold on the AP with Base Calculations from MazdaManiac. This is where most my questions will come into play.
Will the placement of the BOV be detrimental to the blow through set up?
I understand there needs to be TWO screens placed in front of the MAF. If I remember what I read, it should 3 inches and 6 inches from the sensor, if the BOV is mounted roughly 6" in front of the FIRST screen, then the disruption from the BOV shouldn't be too heavily felt correct?
Have people tried converting to a MAP sensor? Or is the MAF sensor proven to hold up to boost and work well in boosted applications?

Injectors I’m looking to run will be 720cc's (P2) with the remaining 4 cleaned and flowed.

As for the exhaust set-up, that'll you guys will have to wait to see... if it works like I plan.

I need to decide how to supply oil to the turbo. On previous projects I’ve done, we would use a sandwich plate adaptor and run a line from that.
Is that a reasonable idea?
If so, do they sell one with multiple ports for measuring oil pressure and temp as well?

I recently got new packs under my extended warranty plan but intend on upgrading the packs during the install.
Any recommendations from personal experience?

I think I’ve covered everything I had questions on. I have an appointment to visit with Josh and start work on the Manifold Friday of next week. I'm planning on waiting until the manifold is completed to order the rest of the parts.

Thanks in advance guys. Getting back to a turbo rotary is gonna be awesome.

BTW here's the car that's getting the turbo.

Turblown

I would not suggest using the OMP with a top mount turbo kit. A) too much heat too close to the unit, and B) you will limit the quality of your turbo manifold design. Premix is better for these engines anyhow.

I would not anything in a T2 frame( GT28 etc), use at least a big T3. Personally I prefer T4 turbine wheels/housings.

I don't see a issue with your WMI location. We did a recent dyno and to our surprise it was better to place the water/alcohol injection nozzel infront of the throttle body, instead of pre compressor( even though intake temperatures suggest otherwise).

It is usually better to use a recirc bov like Tials back ordered Alpha Q with a MAF setup.

You will want a coil upgrade, even with new units.

Hope this helps.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

like the sound of your plan so far - look forward to seeing the progress .

3071 is known to work well so 3076 seems like a good choice as well although have not heard of anyone here running one .

gregs

iTrader: (7)

nice to see some bigger planned projects finally! look foward to progress

Red Devil

Fixed

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

I dont think anyone here will argue that space limitations of a front mount manifold dumps a lot of heat into the OMP. And that isnt a good thing. But to run without it all together?

I know I'll get "the old skool guys have been... 30 years blah yadda.." The fact of the matter is, is you rely solely on premix, then any time you're decelerating off-throttle - you have virtually no fuel injected. Thus no lubrication. Now I dont know how anyone else here drives their car, but I spend far too much time with the throttle closed to be convinced that is an acceptable idea.

I certainly agree that premix should be used, but as an addition to cover the shortfalls of the OMP systems capabilities. This is an issue that really needs to be looked at more as more and more ppl are moving into front mount setups

BigTurbo74

I see your logic Paul. My question to you is, does your omp inject oil on decel?

Do side and corner seals need omp injected oil to cool them when there is no combustion heat being produced?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Pretty sure OMP does inject oil on decel - there is are load map as well as a throttle posn map.
Not sure if it is 100% necessary - i guess if the old school guys don't have an issue .........

Removing the OMP is no walk in the park either as the ECU needs to see signals from it otherwise the engine goes into limp mode . There is a thread that describes what must be done to disable it around here somewhere .

Dietbudda

Thanks for all the responses. Car is going into the trans shop on tuesday for warranty replacement. A few weeks later it will go into the shop for fabrication.

After looking at the rather overwhelming response to the turbo selection question, you have all made my job cheaper and easier, thank you.
I have a turbo floating around my garage (as do all good mechanics right?) that seems to be close to a GT35 called an SPA7000H.


I've decided on going with a 50mm wastegate. I've decided i'm sticking with a blow through MAF sensor, unless MazdaManiac belives it to be a bad idea.

I need some guidance on tuning the car though, i've heard good things about three different systems, the int-X, AccessPort and the SCANalyzer.
Is there a benifit to one over the other?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Accessport is the best tuning choice .
Re the turbo : you never did say what you were trying to achieve . I have a pretty small turbo and my car is a beast on the street . That one you posted looks all wrong for a street car .....

PhantomRX-8

iTrader: (1)

Racing Beat offers a great sandwich adapter that I am using. It only comes with 2 ports so you can get your source and temp/pressure from it. If you need more than that, you can tap the original sending unit. I would also suggest running a coolant temp gauge. The stock one has about 40* of fluctuation between where the gauge sits in the middle, and when it decides to move again and tell you you are over heating. Always best to have piece of mind. My Auto Meter coolant gauge moves a considerable amount. Normal driving it sits right at 180, then as soon as the car gets into boost, it goes straight to 195+. Stock gauge wont show that.

Red Devil

Prosport sells the same sandwich w/ functionality, but for half the price.

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

as Brettus said, yes it does.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

GT35 is the biggest turbo I would ever run on a street RX8... they do very well with minimal lag, but there is still some lag (plan for full boost at 4000RPMS). For big power, this is a good choice. I'd also only do it on a ported engine. But that's just me.

I'd personally do the 3076R... I have the 3071 and it is more than enough to get you in a ton of trouble on the street.

MAF Blow through should work... just have to ensure you get your set-up dialed in right- then you can VTA all you want.

I have a draw through and a BOV recirced, which works very well for me.

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

who needs blow through to VTA? Theres nothing uncool about turning your tailpipes into torches everytime you come off throttle

Red Devil

I don't know what we're considering full boost - 8, 10, bar, etc... With that compressor wheel, or anything like that flows around 60-65 lbs min you're at higher efficiency through near any pr.

What was the turbine, wheel and AR on that GT35 setup to full spool at 4000 rpms?


BTW, what BOV are you using? Happy with it?

Kane

iTrader: (1)

I use Synapse BOV, and it rules! I have it on all my TC-ed cars now.

Full boost is anything over 10 PSI IMO...

The GT3582R was run on an FD, so it is admittidly different in some ways.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...R_714568_2.htm

Red Devil

Hmmm...does that come with all the recirc fittings in the initial purchase? I've been contemplating that or the HKS unit.

I guess really this is just subjective. Personally, I'm willing to not have full spool until 4000 rpms...that's well within the range to shift at ~8000 rpms and still be at the target pr. I have a .96 T4 for my setup, though I expect to make runs as high as 20 psi. But I can certainly understand wanting full boost well before that.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Style points in some cases. I like being able to mash it at 2500 RPMS and get an instant GO!!!!

But I'll likely never run more than 14PSI. The synapse does come with the recirc fitting, just have to specify the flange you want. I have ordered like 6-8 of them from Ray at BHR, so he's got it down to a science. The Synapse did reduce boost threshold over the HKS on the FD w/ the GT35 btw...by almost 300 RPMS.

Derex'8

iTrader: (4)

Maf based on a blow through setup should be intersting. I'm using a pull through setup as well and coupled with a 12" MAF housing equals damn near flawless. It can be a PITA to account for,(tuning) VTA on a Turbo'd MAF setup....I ended up having to recirculate

Dietbudda

You're right, i didn't say what i was looking for.
That's a tough thing to answer because i won't know untill i drive the car exactly, but i rough idea. I went through 3 different sized turbos trying to find what was right on my previous audi build.
I like my power up top, so boost by 4K with not much down low but a wimper is fine by me. With instant power down low, i tend to get myself into more trouble then nessecary.
The advantage to running the turbo i have, if it dosen't suit me powerband wise, i'll drop the coin and pick up a 3076 and since the turbos share a common hotside setup, straight swap if needed.

I pulled off the nitrous yesterday and dropped the car off at the shop, i think i'll throw the kit in my beater car now as i won't be needing it anymore