Yeah...I can't even drive it....I'm in the middle of changing a front Upright/bearing.



its on jack stands in the video....

Chris

 

Mine's on a cable throttle, I'm sure you really want to ship it me over, I'll give it back, honest.....


Have to agree on the idling issues, even with all the ports open when we were building actuator circuits for the secondary ports, our would idle smoothly and easily at 800rpm.

 

Sounds nice, but DAMN it's loud!

 

Loud? It's the quietest Bridgeport I've ever heard in person! Reni's will always be quieter than their previous counterparts because of the exhaust ports. My car is no louder than a Stock N/A RX-8 with a catback/midpipe...the turbo kills the sound alot.

Chris

 

Please put the video at some more place for us few that refuses to get facebook.

 

Here it is in Photobucket!

http://s679.photobucket.com/albums/v...t=MOV01257.flv


Chris

 

nice me gusta como suena ese 8

 

wow1 that really sounds good!

 

nice

your gauge cluster is lit up like a christmas tree with all those warning lights, lol

get the electrical tape out and start covering them up

 

haha....well, the car had been disconnected from the battery so you can see the CEL(obviously ) and the DSC/TCS lights.

I don't know about tape but I am considering just pulling the bulb for the CEL out . I really don't care what it has to say to me since I am monitoring everything with peak/hold/alarm gauges that will make noise if anything is not normal....

What do you think, pull the CEL or live with it flashing in my face???

Chris

 

Ok...then lets have a vote between electrical tape and black paint...



Chris

 

Or you could just desolder the surface mount LED... or crush it with a pair of pliers...

But honestly, while you're back there, the best option is electrical tape over the back of the gauge face, then you can't see it at all

 

the other nonfacebook vid dint seem to work.....

 

Got the car to drive...now in break in mode...only like 80 miles so far...

Idle is at like 17-1800 because I still have to mess with it... my "Crank" map is out of whack so if I shut if off while engine fully warmed up it will not want to start again until it reaches ambient temps :O....

Other than that...the "Brap" is not a noticeable as a full bridge...but definitely audible...I like it...the car feel strong under 2psi which is where I have kept it....we will see how it goes....as soon as I get the idle to settle at like 12-1500rpm I will get a video from the outside of the car so you guys can hear it.

Chris

 

Out of curiosity, do you do your own tuning?

 

Yes I do...

Chris

 

Less typing and more work!

 

On that note....

I drove it to work today....I found the issue with my idle and starting problems I was experiencing were due to fouled spark plugs....I replaced them yesterday and had to richen up the entire map. It is now idling with the classic "brap brap brap" at 1400-1500 which I actually really like...it shakes the whole car...and its way easier to start once warm. Now I just need to tune the crank map to suit the engine.

I also eclipsed 100mi on the engine and got slightly into boost up to about 8-9 but not letting it go over 5500-6000rpm and it feels good...the response of the turbo and the transient time/threshold of boost is way more violent....I like it.

More updates coming soon...I have a few little bugs to take care off like a loose exhaust mount...and a few other things...plus more break-in.

Chris...

 

I always love it when someone describes their car as "violent" LOL

Keep up the good work, man!

 

It'll need a moderate amount more.

Bingo.

Gonna get a better idling video posted up? One that's done from outside the car?

B

 

I will get a better video for sure...but I am still having issues starting the car...its better because I can get it going but it still sucks...once its started it runs fine...and holds an idle great.

I had to modify the RPMcrs and RPMwot maps around the 1000-1500 area to take like 20% out so it would idle right at high 11's AFR...as its supposed to...but I then took 10% off at 500rpm for no reason...just to smooth out the transition...this might have been a mistake...this would affect starting, no? since its the lowest rpm value? I should probably put that at 0 first...and then go and modify the crank values...which right now are at like 30% around the 38-46C and they fade to something like 0-10% as it gets to the 99-124C points...

Does this make sense to you B.?

Anyone else have any ideas on this matter?

Thanks.

Chris

 

yes - i did something similar once and starting was all f'd up

 

What did you do afterward?

This is one map I haven't really had to mess with much...and it seems like the % values are not real % of fuel since changes don't have the effect they should in my opinion.

Chris

 

/\ I was running a piggyback at the time removed about 14% fuel in the 500rpm range . Once I put it back to 0 all was good again . Had me scratching my head for a while though .

 

The problem was caused because you removed 14% fuel at 500rpm or you fixed it by removing 14% fuel???

Thanks.

Chris