Between 10 and 12 degrees

 

Right now I'm working Mon-Fri 10 hours shifts, 450kms from my house. It absolutely sucks but the money is good!! Been doing this for the past 20 months and now I will be done this project Oct. 31. I was planning on selling my car earlier this year but now I will be working from the office back home until I start my next project in February. Is going to be 2 weeks on, 2 weeks off and they will fly me to my site each time meaning I am going to have 2 weeks of free time rather than only 2 days off with 900kms of driving included in that time off!

My goal with what is going to feel like an extraordinary amount of time off compared to what I get now is to do what it takes to dyno my 8 at over 300whp

 

sweet , PM me if you need any help .

 

"If it isn't one, its the other, the woman said, bleeding from her nose"
Freely translated from Norwegian saying.

I take that as you have tried. One(well - many) steps ahead of me as usual.

 

No , it's just that I never see those wheels get mentioned so wondered if it was because they aren't available

I'm seriously considering a 9 blade turbine ............ need to also rplace the turbine housing but I think it might just be what is needed to make the 60-1 work to it's full potential in the frame design we are stuck with .

Turbocharger Turbine Wheel Shaft Mitsubishi TD06H High Flow 9 Blade Light Weight

 

Had lots of oil go into my catch can at a recent track day . decided to plumb the catch can drain back into the breather tube . Also fitted a baffle in the catch can to seprate the oil side from the air side . X fingers this does the trick.

 

I recently just ordered a new catch can for mine.... Seems to be a much much better design than my current extremely shitty RaceRoots catch can (that I see they don't even sell anymore). Anyways I purchased it from catchcans.com. It uses a 'steel wool' type of separator to get oil vapors to condense from the air.

I actually was looking at these for my 2012 Chevy Tahoe and seen how effective they were working for all of the guys on that forum and decided to buy a second one for my 8.

 

My new catch can set up with push lock hose and AN fittings. It even has a dip stick


[url=https://flic.kr/p/nLeurH]

 

When i said a lot of oil ............... I meant a LOT of oil . It was filling right up after only 10 mins driving . The drain to sump idea is a prettty common thing with racecars . Seeing as I didn't want to take the engine apart to do that , lower down the breather tube was the next best thing .

You can see where the pipe goes back into the breather tube in lower right hand corner of pic.




Good idea ,think I'll do that .

 

I have found that the oil in my catch can has lessened after I stopped venting to the intake and applied vacuum to filler neck.

Perhaps it helps the engine seals work better due to the vacuum?

 

9k you have too much time and money on your hands. I'm jealous. You got a sweet can

 

Time maybe, money no way . Besides the can is only $80.00. The fittings and hose are not cheap though but I have sort of a thing for AN fittings, wait until you see my latest changes

 

Don't understand what you mean ..... how do you apply vacuum without venting to the intake ?

 

initially the breather was located just past the MAF in the intake tube. Now it goes into the LIM. This could allow more vacuum to the crankcase than normal and I initially expected more oil in the catch can however, it has actually lessened.

My gauge is also showing 12 to 15 vacuum at stock idle speed although it could also be the result of finally resolving all my vacuum and boost leaks

 

Did you also fit a check valve to stop it leaking boost into the crankcase ?

I can see this would dead head the crankcase (asssuming you fitted a check valve) under full throttle but evacuate it everytime you go into vacuum . So it makes sense that less oil would end up in the catch can.

interesting idea ........... i might try it

 

There is a check valve in place

 

Let me get this straight, so rather than plumbing from filler neck, to catchcan inlet, then from catchcan outlet to intake pipe upstream of thottlebody; you are going from catchcan outlet to your LIM? Also where are you installing your check valve; between oil filler neck and catch can or does it matter? I have mine between catch can and oil filler neck but now that I'm thinking about it that check valve should probably go between catch can and charge pipe so it will stay cleaner?

I also would expect more oil as it would be drawing a stronger vacuum sucking from filler neck through can to LIM... With my set up, plumbed into charge pipe just upstream of TB i rarely see anything in my catch can apart from the white gunk and water with a tad bit of oil. This is the reason I am switching catch cans though, something tells me that the water vapour is condensing but the oil vapour is not. Hoping this "steel wool filtered" catch can will either stay as clean, meaning I'm not getting alot of crankcase vapours, or will filter alot more and show to me how poor this raceroots can has been functioning the past 2 years.

I also sit around 12-15 vacuum at idle, seeing those lower vacuum numbers as the engine gets hotter.... I'm sure my stock Greddy intake has something to do with this and a bit of studdering at hot idle.....

 

Not only that but you would get rid of a big boost reservoir that would be slowing your throttle response and decreasing the effectiveness of your BOV.


Who useses the stock POS greddy hot air intake anymore ?

 

Haha I know I know, I've been meaning to get around to it but it means getting a retune also; and I've been on the road for work the past two summers putting only about 5000kms on the car it in that time.

Besides at these latitudes the only time its an issue is stationary when the engine is really hot

 

My bad, was not thinking straight when I wrote this the first time. I do not have a check valve in line with my catch can. I put a check valve on the line that goes from my intake to the oil injector/droppers (for unrelated reasons). Anyway, my catch vent goes back closer to my intake/maf sensor pre-turbo, not to my charge pipe as I stated previously. Being that the oil filler neck/crank case vent should always be positive pressure and my intake always being a vacuum there shouldn't be a need for a check valve in my catch can lines anywhere?




And I took this to heart Brett haha, ordered piping to route my intake out the bumper

 

No check valve needed there .

And like you said ............. watch the tune very carefully ...it will go awhol with the new intake setup .

 

Yes I have played with quite a few intake setups over the past year refining my setup and even the slightest changes can make **** go haywire,

 

Ok thanks fellas, yeah most likely wont install it until next spring when I will also re-tune it. It will be in storage for the winter very soon.

 

Seems like they are available at their homesite:
Custom T3 Turbo with T4 B/E Compressor

 

Got a good score on some brakes .