Brettspeed cast manifold with G30-660 - info thread
05-24-2022, 11:33 AM
#76
05-24-2022, 11:44 AM
#77
the old standby; if you have to ask then you can't afford it.
I think Brettus has proven the design well enough, but even at that power level there are so many other factors that it's no guarantee. It comes down more to you as an owner/operator and your skill level to know and perceive things. Along with making the full investment of quality components for it to operate and be monitored optimally. More importantly, the motor should be built for turbo considerations imo, and it may be too late for that per your post in the other thread.
I think Brettus has proven the design well enough, but even at that power level there are so many other factors that it's no guarantee. It comes down more to you as an owner/operator and your skill level to know and perceive things. Along with making the full investment of quality components for it to operate and be monitored optimally. More importantly, the motor should be built for turbo considerations imo, and it may be too late for that per your post in the other thread.
The following users liked this post:
Fickert (05-25-2022)
05-24-2022, 11:54 AM
#78
the old standby; if you have to ask then you can't afford it.
I think Brettus has proven the design well enough, but even at that power level, there are so many other factors that it's no guarantee. It comes down more to you as an owner/operator and your skill level to know and perceive things. Along with making the full investment of quality components for it to operate and be monitored optimally. More importantly, the motor should be built for turbo considerations IMO, and it may be too late for that per your post in the other thread.
I think Brettus has proven the design well enough, but even at that power level, there are so many other factors that it's no guarantee. It comes down more to you as an owner/operator and your skill level to know and perceive things. Along with making the full investment of quality components for it to operate and be monitored optimally. More importantly, the motor should be built for turbo considerations IMO, and it may be too late for that per your post in the other thread.
Another reason is that my planned kit is to buy RX8 performance kit, then I did research and read some posts from you regards to Scott's past
regards to Scott's reputation, he seems like a nice guy and knows his **** properly, but it seems like he is always just one guy and maybe the time scheduled is not good
his kit is a quality kit and seems great!
My car is currently at IR performance
I spoke to different people and everyone has a different experience and opinion on the turbo
But for sure the side seals are not good for high backpressure and temps.
Last edited by klikai8; 05-24-2022 at 02:21 PM.
05-24-2022, 03:04 PM
#79
I've been 'pushing the envelope' for many years on these engines . With a good setup , well tuned , well cooled , well lubricated , not over powered , these engines are definitely reliable when boosted. Getting all those ducks in a row .... is pretty difficult . So not for the faint hearted nor half hearted.
05-24-2022, 04:06 PM
#80
I've been 'pushing the envelope' for many years on these engines . With a good setup , well tuned , well cooled , well lubricated , not over powered , these engines are definitely reliable when boosted. Getting all those ducks in a row .... is pretty difficult . So not for the faint hearted nor half hearted.
Yes, I was going to see if a supercharger kit is available, but all I can find is S1 pettit superchargers, a lot is involved in adapting an S1 Pettit kit to S2, I was looking at the DNA motorsport one from AU, but 2 weeks later 3 emails nobody responded
Are you going to offer a whole kit or just different parts?
The following users liked this post:
Fickert (06-23-2022)
05-26-2022, 04:12 AM
#82
05-26-2022, 04:41 AM
#84
05-30-2022, 03:42 PM
#86
I'm pretty sure it will!
The following users liked this post:
RotaryMachineRx (06-27-2022)
06-14-2022, 09:16 PM
#91
Hawt hawt hawt hawwwt
Turns out I need some basic ducting to keep the water temps below 215F in NA trim during a 6hr enduro...
Probably going to do the rx8performance oil pan for the return and additional capacity/baffles and duct the mazdaspeed nose to force the air over the oil coolers. Also add ducting for the radiator. Currently it's just nose and aluminum undertray with vented hood so the air is just going everywhere being stupid and not helping on slow corners.
Shredder drifted a few corners which oddly did more for cooling than taking the corner "correctly". I think because the air was acting funny while sideways.
Long story short we survived the 6hrs of the enduro...provided we kept the car at 215F and below.
Anyways...cooling in Texas has always been a problem and so the additional heat from a turbo is going to compound this. Heat shielding is going to become my next focus.
Got a buddy in Houston that does drag cars who's a badass welder...so I'ma get him to help w the plumbing. He makes heat shield brackets all the time, so I'm gonna see what he can fab up.
Probably going to do the rx8performance oil pan for the return and additional capacity/baffles and duct the mazdaspeed nose to force the air over the oil coolers. Also add ducting for the radiator. Currently it's just nose and aluminum undertray with vented hood so the air is just going everywhere being stupid and not helping on slow corners.
Shredder drifted a few corners which oddly did more for cooling than taking the corner "correctly". I think because the air was acting funny while sideways.
Long story short we survived the 6hrs of the enduro...provided we kept the car at 215F and below.
Anyways...cooling in Texas has always been a problem and so the additional heat from a turbo is going to compound this. Heat shielding is going to become my next focus.
Got a buddy in Houston that does drag cars who's a badass welder...so I'ma get him to help w the plumbing. He makes heat shield brackets all the time, so I'm gonna see what he can fab up.
06-15-2022, 12:38 AM
#92
Turns out I need some basic ducting to keep the water temps below 215F in NA trim during a 6hr enduro...
Probably going to do the rx8performance oil pan for the return and additional capacity/baffles and duct the mazdaspeed nose to force the air over the oil coolers. Also add ducting for the radiator. Currently it's just nose and aluminum undertray with vented hood so the air is just going everywhere being stupid and not helping on slow corners.
Shredder drifted a few corners which oddly did more for cooling than taking the corner "correctly". I think because the air was acting funny while sideways.
Long story short we survived the 6hrs of the enduro...provided we kept the car at 215F and below.
Anyways...cooling in Texas has always been a problem and so the additional heat from a turbo is going to compound this. Heat shielding is going to become my next focus.
Got a buddy in Houston that does drag cars who's a badass welder...so I'ma get him to help w the plumbing. He makes heat shield brackets all the time, so I'm gonna see what he can fab up.
Probably going to do the rx8performance oil pan for the return and additional capacity/baffles and duct the mazdaspeed nose to force the air over the oil coolers. Also add ducting for the radiator. Currently it's just nose and aluminum undertray with vented hood so the air is just going everywhere being stupid and not helping on slow corners.
Shredder drifted a few corners which oddly did more for cooling than taking the corner "correctly". I think because the air was acting funny while sideways.
Long story short we survived the 6hrs of the enduro...provided we kept the car at 215F and below.
Anyways...cooling in Texas has always been a problem and so the additional heat from a turbo is going to compound this. Heat shielding is going to become my next focus.
Got a buddy in Houston that does drag cars who's a badass welder...so I'ma get him to help w the plumbing. He makes heat shield brackets all the time, so I'm gonna see what he can fab up.
06-15-2022, 12:43 AM
#93
I upgraded to the koyo and swapped everything to silicone hoses. So far the koyo dumps heat like mad when it's got air flowing over it. I was about to rip out the thermostat and go ewp with the ducting.
06-23-2022, 01:57 AM
#94
The next three weeks is going to be spent trying to get the remaining parts...
Due to the timelines...I'm literally trying to strip the car and make ducts to force air over the oil coolers.
IF I cannot get the turbo slammed into place before next month (literally 30 days from now) then I'm going to run the car NA to test cooling and all the supporting hardware around the car...
Not trying to ***** myself out...but I might literally stream it live.
Due to the timelines...I'm literally trying to strip the car and make ducts to force air over the oil coolers.
IF I cannot get the turbo slammed into place before next month (literally 30 days from now) then I'm going to run the car NA to test cooling and all the supporting hardware around the car...
Not trying to ***** myself out...but I might literally stream it live.
The following users liked this post:
Brettus (06-23-2022)
07-05-2022, 12:16 AM
#95
I'm looking up some of the final parts to start the build too. At the moment I'm looking at exhaust tubing for the downpipe. @Brettus Do you have any recommendations regarding thickness/gauge of stainless? What I'm looking at (at the moment) is T304 around 1.25mm or about 0.06in - between 16 and 18 gauge.
07-05-2022, 12:24 AM
#96
I'm looking up some of the final parts to start the build too. At the moment I'm looking at exhaust tubing for the downpipe. @Brettus Do you have any recommendations regarding thickness/gauge of stainless? What I'm looking at (at the moment) is T304 around 1.25mm or about 0.06in - between 16 and 18 gauge.
07-05-2022, 12:24 PM
#97
in T304, 16 Ga for the DP would be best long term. You can go 18 Ga. from there if it’s properly fitted, welded, and hung appropriately. Most people will do all 16 Ga though with it being more readily available and generally less expensive. It’s heavy though. The difference on the 16 Ga exhaust on the REW swap vs the 20 Ga T321 exhaust on my NA Renesis is a bit shocking.
The following 2 users liked this post by TeamRX8:
3toedSloth (07-07-2022),
Brettus (07-05-2022)
The following users liked this post:
EvilHoHo (07-09-2022)
07-09-2022, 02:44 AM
#100
I have yet to price out the materials as I've spent stupid amounts of plastic in my 3d printer mocking it up. I know I can probably google the answer but...are we talking about a magnitude of 2x, 5x, 10x?
The aluminum on the cold side is fairly cheap but will require someone else to weld it up for me. I've yet to 3d print that side as it feels easier.
I have COTA again in three weeks...hopefully the ducting and lessons learned from the enduro work...else I've got to do something drastic to reduce the oil temps. At the Texas +107F temps, running the car full bore means the ECU pulls it back to protect itself once we pass 215F on the water, and I can only see that blowing the keg up if I push it.
There's a reason I have yet to install it...the heat needs to get under control for track applications. I'm sure for street its "OK" but for track when we are WOT for long periods of time...this is a problem. EWP and throwing out the thermostat might be this weekend. I'm in the process of creating ducting (based on the advice of apex autoworks) and other cooling strategies for the next three weeks.
Note for readers, COTA is hard on all cars...the duration and heat is a problem for everyone. I'm a special problem. I have a seibon vented hood and more mods than most people would ever consider buying. Don't follow my footsteps unless you have the money to blow things up and laugh/cry as people make fun of you for trying.
The aluminum on the cold side is fairly cheap but will require someone else to weld it up for me. I've yet to 3d print that side as it feels easier.
I have COTA again in three weeks...hopefully the ducting and lessons learned from the enduro work...else I've got to do something drastic to reduce the oil temps. At the Texas +107F temps, running the car full bore means the ECU pulls it back to protect itself once we pass 215F on the water, and I can only see that blowing the keg up if I push it.
There's a reason I have yet to install it...the heat needs to get under control for track applications. I'm sure for street its "OK" but for track when we are WOT for long periods of time...this is a problem. EWP and throwing out the thermostat might be this weekend. I'm in the process of creating ducting (based on the advice of apex autoworks) and other cooling strategies for the next three weeks.
Note for readers, COTA is hard on all cars...the duration and heat is a problem for everyone. I'm a special problem. I have a seibon vented hood and more mods than most people would ever consider buying. Don't follow my footsteps unless you have the money to blow things up and laugh/cry as people make fun of you for trying.
Last edited by EvilHoHo; 07-09-2022 at 02:50 AM.