Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Thought I would start this thread for anyone thinking of getting this setup so they can order components and hit the ground running. The component list is also a good start point for any turbo setup IMO.
I've spent a number of years trying various products and fine tuning my system to get the best possible result so this list can save you a lot of effort.
Brettspeed manifold pictured below


I'll start with a list of recommended products etc .
1/Turbo : Garrett G30-660 . This is basically the ONLY turbo that I know will fit the above manifold properly.
Turbine:
AR 0.83 T3 in 'V' band out for mild setup with aftermarket catback exhaust for fastest possible spool.
AR 1.01 T3 in 'V' band out for any setup involving custom made 3" plus freeflow exhaust system for higher sustained power and superior boost control


Note : there are Chinese knockoff turbos from Pulsar and others. I personally would not recommend any of these unless the vehicle is 100% street duty and you don’t mind taking a risk on performance and/or durability.



2Wastegate : Tial MVR 44mm

Possible alternate : Turbosmart GenV Hypergate45 . Have tested this wastegate on the system. Found it does flow a little more than the Tial which can be beneficial if experiencing boost creep (lowers creep by approx. 1psi at peak) . However it does have the following drawbacks 1/ Requires more grinding back of the subframe flange to fit with clearance 2/ Has less ground clearance (by 10mm) than the Tial - so it ends up sitting approx 12mm below the sump. 3/ Much harder to assemble if using the supplied v band clamps. Still a good option though.

Possible alternate : Garrett GVW 45 ... This looks to be a great alternative but as yet untested.

Important note : I highly discourage the use of any cheap knockoff wastegate - they are way more likely to fail than any of the above which can result in a blown engine.

Wastegate pipe : 45mm OD pipe with bellows and v bands at each end connecting to downpipe.



3/Blowoff Valve : Synapse Synchronic diverter valve (can be purchased with a weld flange suitable for welding to aluminium pipe.)This valve allows for easy recirculation which is essential in a MAF based tuning scenario.
https://www.vividracing.com/synapse-...150705244.html

Alternate : HKS ssqv



4/Intercooler : Treadstone TR10C Treadstone TR10C Intercooler 700HP (edgeautosport.com)

I recommend this IC because it will comfortably handle flow in the 300-400whp (rotary) range and if fitted as high as possible, will allow sufficient air to pass under it such that radiator performance is not unduly affected. The in/out tubes are in the center which works well with the rx8 radiator plastic cowl etc while avoiding the in/out pipes from blocking air flow to the radiator. Very important! Added bonus : Centre in/out tubes are more efficient thus improving performance over other ICs of the same size.
For USDM users the stock crash bar is very deep and may require modification to avoid it being an issue. If your goals are in the low 300s whp then the TR8C intercooler (which is 2" shallower) would be a better option.

5/Injectors :

93(98Ron) octane Pump gas (Max. recommended 9psi 315whp) :S1 6 port yellow/blue/blue 3456cc @ 58psi total

E30 (Max recommended 13psi 385whp) : S1 6 port yellow/Uncapped yellow/uncapped yellow 4350cc @ 58psi total

E30 - better spray pattern stock injectors for around 350whp on E30 : S1 6 port .... green/brown/brown 3600cc@58psi total



6/ S1 Fuel pump : For max on pump gas Deutchwerks DW200

For max on E30 : Deutchwerks DW300 see thread: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-maj...onents-271171/



7/Spark plugs for max on pump gas : NGK R7420-9s with extra washer on trailing

For max on E30 or track duty : NGK R7420-10s with extra washer on trailing
Always fit good quality after market leads as the stock leads are crap and will cause premature coil failure as they deteriorate.

8/Coils: Highly recommend the stock (REV C) coils using the above plugs for all builds other than those looking to max. out the setup. Note: Those plugs have smaller gaps than stock ... this is important !
If you do wish to upgrade the coils :
BHR coil upgrade works well :Black Halo Racing Globally-Compliant Performance Ignition Coil | Black Halo Racing (black-halo-racing.myshopify.com)
Note Test all coils (old or new , stock or BHR) using this procedure before tuning: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...highlight=coil

9/ MAF setup for use with stock ECU : 31/2” OD aluminium tube with honeycomb straightener before maf sensor. Minimum 200mm long with sensor placed equidistant from either end. Note: the AEM maf tube works great as it has the bend you need at one end plus intlets for jet air, omp and oil fill vent. Steel mesh can also work but honeycomb straightener is far superior.
If you don't have the AEM ..this is a great starting point : Treadstone Performance Inc., Turbo Kits, Intercoolers, Turbo Manifolds, Silicone Hose

Note: Please don’t ask me to tune your setup if it doesn’t meet these maf specs.
Good alternate maf housing : https://performancemrp.com/i-3049764...tegory:1389196

10/Intake :

Cold side : After maf tube reduce diameter to 3” and carry that through to turbo inlet

Hot side : 90 degree silicone elbow 2” reducing to 21/4” straight off turbo (note leg on 2” side will need to be cut down to minimum length) increasing to 21/2” after steering column then 3” into IC. From IC to throttle either 21/2” or 3” . LHD cars may work with 21/2" straight off turbo but not 100% sure that will fit.

11/Exhaust :

For 300whp and below : 21/2” (gutted cat) free flow aftermarket . If you have to run a cat - high flow cat only plus I would recommend that the WG gases bypass the cat altogether for best performance and longevity of cat.

For low to mid 300s : 3” free flow

For high 300s to 400: 3” free flow with separate 2” pipe for wastegate (would advise against a screamer pipe)

Or 31/2” free flow

12/Tuning :

Mazdaedit personal with stock ECU

13/Boost Control:
Edit . It's come to my attention that without a boost control setup as shown below (have used this for many years myself) .... optimum spoolup cannot be attained with this manifold. I believe there is too much pulse energy against the WG valve for other methods to be successful.



By use of a four port solenoid valve (and a 4-5psi spring), any boost built will be directed to the port that holds the valve shut and it will only bleed off as 'start boost' setting is achieved.

Now have these three kits available for those that need a head start with these more difficult to obtain parts.

Turbo hose kit

Turbo Drain kit

Turbo pipe kit

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

This was the dyno for G30-660 with the 1.01AR turbine and fabricated manifold. With the 0.83/cast manifold combo it comes on 4-500rpm earlier than this and I expect with minimal drop in whp up top.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

First three cast manifolds . Top one fitted the gtx3582r and is going to a local here in NZ. Next one down is the one On my current setup. Bottom one went to Aussie and is currently being fitted.

simpleSiemon

I appreciate you sharing all the info.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Getting the brackets done for the first batch .........

First actual manifold being fitted by customer in Aussie now. Hoping that will be up and running within a month.

Fickert

iTrader: (6)

Nice!

Will he be documenting anything or just posting up results? Congrats again, this should be a pretty big step for "commericalizing" your manifold design. Exciting stuff.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Thanks . He's not on here afaik but I'm pretty sure he will be posting results up on the Aussie forum.

Cgoebel

are these necessary in lhd application?

350matt

Exciting
hope this goes from strength to strength, as you deserve the success after all the hard work

best of luck chap

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Matt , appreciate the encouragement.

northzone

Brett

Just wondering if a Greddy oil pan would be any benefit? Understanding that if you don't have one it isn't required but is there any benefit? Also noticed in the Turbo IV thread post 232 that you shaved the oil pan to fit the engine mount, is that going to be required for the new mounts you are making?

Oh and about that turbo inlet pipe took 2 days to get just right in the same post, are there additional complications due to RH drive or is everyone going to have difficulties also? Are you selling copies?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

probably because the lip of the OE oil pan is cut out around the two lower OE motor mount bolting points, but not in-between them.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I never saw much need for a larger oil pan myself so never bothered . None of the rx8s in our race series have one and we have some tracks that are well known to kill engines with substandard sump designs. In saying that , my sump has the additional baffle on the right side that didn't come on the early 8s..... figured that was probably worthwhile seeing as Mazda saw fit to add it.

The sump is not modified for the engine bracket. I designed it to sit just under the lip so there should be no trimming to do.

With the inlet pipe, it depends on if you have the omp in place and if it's RHD. On a LHD with omp it's easier than what I had to deal with for sure but will still require a bit of work to get right.
At this point I haven't considered supplying them.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Update :
Seems like this crazy world we live in right now is affecting everything! Have a major hold up with the engineering company doing the welding/machining of the manifold, so earliest I'll have the first batch ready will be early March.
Second batch SHOULD follow within a month of the first. I'll let the ones in line for that second batch know who they are shortly.
This is all out of my hands unfortunately , makes me wonder about buying a mill and doing it myself!

The first manifold sent out has been fitted to the engine but there are holdups getting labor to finish that one too!

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Missed the question somehow . Yes essential for both LHD and RHD.
Also:
Would you mind deleting your second (double) post .... cheers

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I realize photos don’t always provide a true or clear view, but couldn’t help to notice that the turbo flange divider in the first manifold appears different from the lower two?

Also that the divider on the lower two manifolds seems to lack a smooth curving radius transition into the flange? Maybe just the angle and a casting edge, not really sure.

Fickert

iTrader: (6)

I think thats just a shadow? These each are 3D printed then cast so I have a hard time believing it would be different.

EvilHoHo

Can I put down a deposit or something to help offset your costs? Call the machine shop and become annoying to expedite production? Spam someone with cat memes?

Not trying to jump the queue or anything, just really getting really sick of these Porsches on the back straight picking on me. Like this past weekend and again in two weeks. My ego can only take so much hahahaha.

I'm going to start collecting that parts list now. Thanks.

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

I'm not surprised; I work for an industrial mechanical contractor (HVAC, Plumbing, fire sprinklers, etc) and items we can normally get either in stock or 1 week lead times are now pushing out to months of lead time. It is pretty ridiculous and makes my job planning/managing these projects a complete nightmare. Nobody is even comfortable giving me estimated procurement dates anymore, good luck creating and/or sticking to a construction schedule/sequence in our current economy.

Anyways, I'm really excited to see these start rolling out to customers and getting installed. Hopefully most of your customers understand it will be worth the wait for a product that has been tested and developed over much real world experience and that the current Rx8 community is lacking anything similar to what you are providing.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

The top one has a smaller radius on the top of the divider. There are other differences as the flange is in a slightly different spot to suit the gtx3582.
The transition is much the same , that's just a trick of the light.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Cheers Evil (can I call you that? ...heh)
Have not accepted payments from anyone and wont, till I actually have them in my possession. Of that I'm very glad now, as I'm already way behind original promise dates.
Sorry............... but you aren't in the first two batches so could be a ways off yet.

Fickert

iTrader: (6)

Brett,

You can go ahead and give him or someone my spot, I've already started to accumulate parts for my REW swap, and so I will not be participating with your cast manifold anymore (as sad as I am to say that). I will be following the progress of all the builds and your updates though

EvilHoHo

I go by many names....mostly evil pastries heh...but it's always the same...cat memes...you can call me Susan if that works.

And that's mighty awesome of you. I made a parts list of what I've got on order so far based on what you posted that contains some of the additional parts like gaskets and such. It's all formatted and pretty with prices and URLs. Want me to post it?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

deleted comment about the s2 sump not requiring modification as keeping it stock would likely make fitting the turbo near impossible.

3toedSloth

Would be nice if there were pics of this build. At least of this part of the mod. I'll be doing the same on my S2.