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9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread

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Old 02-27-2012, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by kma5783
I'm trying to remember the exact position but isn't that like a 45 degree angle upwards back towards the LIM? Even running a scavenge pump I would think you would have issues. An oil drain facing upwards like that makes no sense to me, I understand why he had to do it, but that's definitely why he had oil leaking back into the turbo.

Why couldn't the CHRA be clocked 180 degrees so the drain was at least angled downward? Was the larger -10 an fitting hitting the manifold?
Yes... The thought was to run the scavenge pump and correct it. He tried something new with a different vendor and he found out it didn't work. lesson learned!

I think I am the same boat as well... I need to match it up and see how it all fits.
Old 02-27-2012, 12:56 PM
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The only parts of my kit that are Greddy is the intercooler, exhaust manifold and most of the piping. Everything else has been upgraded. Once the intercooler is upgraded then even less.
Old 02-27-2012, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by pdxhak
The only parts of my kit that are Greddy is the intercooler, exhaust manifold and most of the piping. Everything else has been upgraded. Once the intercooler is upgraded then even less.
Yea I purchased a bigger intercooler, and sold the stock greddy one. At this point I am thoroughly unimpressed with anything greddy, so I tired to get rid of everything I could!
Old 02-27-2012, 01:10 PM
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that looks like your holding the turbo upside down. Where is the manifold flange? is it at the palm of your hand? doesnt look like its clocked much (if at all). It will be hard as all hell to get the return line bolted up like that though.
Old 02-27-2012, 01:11 PM
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My kit has greddy piping, IC, oil feed lines, and turbo (rebuilt and balanced by Boostlabs here in Tampa
Old 02-27-2012, 01:27 PM
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My turbo was upgraded by BNR and I have their wastegate.
Old 02-27-2012, 01:27 PM
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Yeah I tried clocking it a couple of ways, even with the coolant lines disconnected and the drain pointing straight down it still smoked I tried working with AMR to get it right, even sent them pics of how the BNR sits but.....................

But it doesn't matter now Soon enough I will have a new turbo with properly fitted/routed hard lines that has already ready been tested to fit using my Greddy manifold
Old 02-27-2012, 01:30 PM
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gl man. let the the devilish hair-drying commence
Old 02-27-2012, 01:37 PM
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No ****, I am ready to lay down some rubber. Driving like an old lady is getting old
Old 02-27-2012, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I am definitely cutting that heat shield and hitting the frame with a BFH to make getting the DP bolted up easier.
I went and bought a crazy 1/4" socket extension set that had a bunch of swivel heads in it.... it was tiny but I was able to get that top DP bolt really quite easily..... I'd recommend that do anyone

As precise as the hammer is, I prefer not to use it
Old 02-27-2012, 05:39 PM
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Someone tried to defy physics.

And Failed.

I guarantee that caused all your problems. Damaging the turbine seal as well. Should not have even put the turbo on when that became apparent.
Old 02-27-2012, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx
I went and bought a crazy 1/4" socket extension set that had a bunch of swivel heads in it.... it was tiny but I was able to get that top DP bolt really quite easily..... I'd recommend that do anyone

As precise as the hammer is, I prefer not to use it
Actually with the mounts unbolted you can shift the motor over a bit and get to it but it is not fun. I will definitely use the 1/4" swivel, extensions, etc.
Old 02-27-2012, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by redlined
Someone tried to defy physics.

And Failed.

I guarantee that caused all your problems. Damaging the turbine seal as well. Should not have even put the turbo on when that became apparent.
You can defy physics if you use a motor.

Think of it as a sump pump, pulling oil up and out. similar to a sump pump in a basement, or a vacuum on the floor, or heck even the OMP.

The turbine oil seal was not found in fault until we took it apart.

It was an experiment no big deal...
Old 02-27-2012, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Actually with the mounts unbolted you can shift the motor over a bit and get to it but it is not fun. I will definitely use the 1/4" swivel, extensions, etc.
I had some... I just didn't think the 3/8 would get stuck.
Old 02-27-2012, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
You can defy physics if you use a motor.

Think of it as a sump pump, pulling oil up and out. similar to a sump pump in a basement, or a vacuum on the floor, or heck even the OMP.
You cannot expect the oil to drain effectively by being sucked up by the vacuum of a pump, especially given its viscosity. Pumps work best when the fluid is already flowing to/through it.
Old 02-27-2012, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by redlined
You cannot expect the oil to drain effectively by being sucked up by the vacuum of a pump, especially given its viscosity. Pumps work best when the fluid is already flowing to/through it.
The pump was designed to move engine oil at what viscosity/temperature I have no clue. The pressure in the oil system combined with the pump drawing it up should have worked fine. The location of the pump might have had an effect on it.

Either way it doesn't matter much, the experiment didn't work out as planned. But he gave it a shot and tried a new approach to the greddy kit.
Old 02-27-2012, 07:08 PM
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Just as an aside - I now know of 4-5 different people who have attempted to run a turbo on our cars with a drain pump . All 5 have failed . Hence my remarks earlier in this thread.
Were they all incompetent or is there a problem with doing it this way ?
Old 02-27-2012, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by pdxhak
I think I had the shortest build. It went so fast I did not do not do bother with a build thread. 45 days total?
Apparently that is the secret sauce recipe
Old 02-27-2012, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by redlined
You cannot expect the oil to drain effectively by being sucked up by the vacuum of a pump, especially given its viscosity. Pumps work best when the fluid is already flowing to/through it.
No, it just has to be designed for that duty is all
Old 02-27-2012, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx
I went and bought a crazy 1/4" socket extension set that had a bunch of swivel heads in it.... it was tiny but I was able to get that top DP bolt really quite easily..... I'd recommend that do anyone

As precise as the hammer is, I prefer not to use it
I have and extension that is about 3 ft long . That plus a swivel makes it easy .
Old 02-27-2012, 09:04 PM
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Yeah the pump was rated for pumping hot oil and worked fine once the engine/oil was warmed up and flowing. Priming it helped a bit but it just wasn't ideal and the oil that leaked into the system when it was cold was then just sent through the charge pipes and made a mess because a bit would leak out of the crappy *** Type R BOV.

But that was that, I tried it, it didn't work. I have even considered putting the turbo on it's own oil circuit with a reservoir and the pump I have but I'm not going to be an idiot and experiment again

K.I.S.S.
Old 02-27-2012, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
Apparently that is the secret sauce recipe
WTH Wow that was some amazingly bad typing on my end.
Old 02-27-2012, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Yeah the pump was rated for pumping hot oil and worked fine once the engine/oil was warmed up and flowing. Priming it helped a bit but it just wasn't ideal and the oil that leaked into the system when it was cold was then just sent through the charge pipes and made a mess because a bit would leak out of the crappy *** Type R BOV.

But that was that, I tried it, it didn't work. I have even considered putting the turbo on it's own oil circuit with a reservoir and the pump I have but I'm not going to be an idiot and experiment again

K.I.S.S.
converting to an equivalent Comp Turbo CT2 oil-less turbo assembly might help you meet the KISS principal, your bank account might prefer you use the KICS principle though

otherwise don't be afraid to try stuff, which means falling down sometimes. That's how we all learn and grow.


.

Last edited by TeamRX8; 02-27-2012 at 09:16 PM.
Old 02-27-2012, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
converting to an equivalent Comp Turbo CT2 oil-less turbo assembly might help you meet the KISS principal, your bank account might prefer you use the KICS principle though

Yeah I contacted them and I was not prepared for that price tag. Actually they gave me a range and wouldn't really give me any details until I sent them the Greddy. I still think that would be ideal for a low mount setup on the RX-8. From what Comp said and from what I have read on some of the Vette and Mopar forums, the oil less turbos are holding up very well to abuse.
Old 02-27-2012, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
I have and extension that is about 3 ft long . That plus a swivel makes it easy .

Yeah I believe I used a combination of two different lengthed extensions with two swivels.... basically you just gotta F*** around till you find something that will grip that nut

I remember I tried a very similiar set up with the 3/8" extensions and swivels and it wouldn't bite, but the same set-up with the 1/4" set-up got completely over the nut...... I pondered for days how I was gonna reach that damn nut; the relief felt once that smaller socket extensions worked.... I dont have words haha

Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 02-27-2012 at 11:34 PM.


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