I've tried the double nut method on a turbo hot side stud and it just stripped the threads outta the nut.. What I ended up doin is used a dremel to flaten opposite sides of the stud and put it in a bench vice with a big cheater bar, then just turned the turbo.. maybe a good set of vice grips would work the same in your case? unless you want to try putting the block on a bench vice lol

 

I just read 52 pages in 4 hours...but no finished engine.

 

 

^

Two nut method worked, I got em' both out without issue

 

Bahhhh and I was hoping for something more exciting!

 

I think for the most part we can call this the exciting free thread zone

Hopefully we will see some action this weekend

 

hahahah.... I feel the same way

 

I think 9K should start a thread like my fender replacement DIY.

https://www.rx8club.com/lounge-4/diy-how-fix-dented-fender-174035/

 

I'm moving as slow as possible.

My replacement thread for this will be just like that

 

LOL awesome!

 

So do we have any bets on how long this will take?

I got $5 in in for 6.5 hours starting at 9am ending at 3:30pm!

 

I've got $5 saying it takes longer than a week.

 

When is 3sisters? I got 5 on the weekend before 3sisters

 

6.5 hours might be possible if we actually worked consistently without stopping... that just isn't the SARX way of doing things.

 

I think its everyones way...

I just want to be there when it starts up, because its a pain int he *** to get it started the first time.

 

^ Shouldn't be Last 2 I did started first crank

 

I guess it depends if Pinapple ran the engine first. I think the engine has 5k on it actually.

 

Yeah the engine is from a 2008 and had 5k on it. I actually don't plan on having it started on Saturday unless things go very well. I actually still need one more fitting (******* feed on the CHRA is not an npt) and one more M8 x 1.25 x 20mm bolt.

 

I have no idea what you are talking about... That bitch will be started!

 

the engine should start right up---crank it a few times to get the oil pressure up first?

 

Pineapple Racing Copyright Pineapple Racing 05/09/09

Recommended Engine Break-in Procedure

1. Pre-lube the engine before starting. To pre-lube engine:

a. Leave oil line loop at front cover unattached with catch pan under it.

b. Repeatedly fill oil adapter outer cavity with oil and allow oil to gravity feed into loop line until oil is present at disconnected end of line. Attach the oil line at the front of the engine. All oil lines should be attached. Pour oil into center passage. Gravity will allow the oil to fill the engine’s internal passages. A quicker way to move oil into the engine’s interal passages is to apply low pressure air to filter adapter and push oil into loop line. Be sure to wear appropriate safety gear and use low pressure. The oil can blow out at you around the rubber tip of the air gun.

c. Prevent engine from starting, then crank engine until pressure gauge shows oil pressure or until oil indicator light on dash goes out.

d. Check for leaks.

e. The above addresses only the oiling system, refer to factory manual for additional first-start precautions that may be necessary. Once Started, check for leaks while allowing engine to come up to operating temperature. Check all gauges frequently.

Pineapple Racing

Recommended Engine Break-in Procedure

Page 2

2. After engine reaches operating temperature, bleed air from cooling system as necessary per factory service manual.

3. Check oil level.

4. Allow engine to run for approximately 30 min. in neutral varying rpms, then turn off. allow the engine to cool, then change oil and filter.

5. Especially for turbocharged engines: make sure spark and fuel mapping are safe for engine break-in. We recommend the engine tuner prevent the engine from exceeding recommended break-in operation specifications.

6. For the first 500 miles of driving, allow engine extra time to warm up before driving the car and do not exceed 4000rpm. Turbocharged engines should run minimal boost during the first 500 miles.

7. Change oil and filter at 500 miles. (will change very 500 miles up until 2,000 miles and then resume normal oil change interval)

8. From 500 to 2000 miles, gradually increase engine rpm and load to the point of occasionally bringing the engine rpm to 7000 using no more than ¾ throttle.

9. Dyno-tune

10. Check oil level frequently during break-in. During break-in, any engine can consume a noticeable quantity of oil. Running an engine low, or out of oil, will void your warranty.

Failure to follow break-in instructions does not necessarily cause immediate engine failure. BUT we have found it will greatly shorten the life of many of the components.
For example, we have seen oil control rings loose ½ their life from lack of break-in. Consider your hard earned money and time when deciding a break-in procedure.

These instructions are not intended to supersede any other engine builder’s recommendations. They should have been chosen for their skill and knowledge. If they cannot provide you with the technical support you require, consider that the next time you look for an engine builder.

 

Do you have the base tune from your guy yet?

 

Not yet, I need to send Kane an email actually, thanks for reminding me.

 

Pain in the F@$king A$$. The turbo feed requires a M10 x 1.50 straight to -4 AN/JIC male fitting. Guess what? It's rare and no one has it in steel

 

my hose shop does amazon hose ftw


.... I could be wrong though... I am completely talking out of my rear here