When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I didn't do a DIY, but I have some pics. I did it before Austin came up with the kit using the twin wire. I have one power going to the front and two grounds in the trunk.
Crappy pic of one of the grounds.
I can't find a pic of the positive distribution block up front but it is mounted on the frame rail under neath the fuse block.
But my setup is sound and works perfectly, I even have a pig tail on the battery for my float charger. But to make it even cleaner, I just ordered this:
What does it look like now with all the rust on it ? I really have a hard time believing that doing that makes any improvement to the ground whatsoever . In my mind the bolt does the grounding through the threads and it isn't necessary for the paint to be taken off the bodywork
What does it look like now with all the rust on it ? I really have a hard time believing that doing that makes any improvement to the ground whatsoever . In my mind the bolt does the grounding through the threads and it isn't necessary for the paint to be taken off the bodywork
Maybe not, but I was told to do it by a guy who wires up equipment on armored military vehicles for a living. And it has been this way for over a year, no rust what so ever. But really rust is a non issue where I live, my car is 11 years old and I can't think of a spot of rust on it anywhere.
Maybe not, but I was told to do it by a guy who wires up equipment on armored military vehicles for a living. And it has been this way for over a year, no rust what so ever. But really rust is a non issue where I live, my car is 11 years old and I can't think of a spot of rust on it anywhere.
I'm not saying I know any better from experience . Just that it doesn't seem logical to me ... that's all .
I would imagine your military buddy has to deal with a spray painter who does a great job at filling the thread holes with paint ..............
I didn't do a DIY, but I have some pics. I did it before Austin came up with the kit using the twin wire. I have one power going to the front and two grounds in the trunk.
Crappy pic of one of the grounds.
I can't find a pic of the positive distribution block up front but it is mounted on the frame rail under neath the fuse block.
9K Thats not a good earth setup, that looks like you have connected a 8-10mm terninal under a small 6mm earth bolt. You should be using a 8-10mm bolt for that size terminal, otherwise you may find over time that vibration could work it loose.
Also it looks like you have used an earth point on a panel which is not a chassis point, only a spot welded panel, better to weld a earth point directly to the chassis.
The removal of paint to give a better earth is a common thing and does help, but you do have to look at ways to stop rust or corrosion forming. The main reason for doing this is to give maximum earth contact for the size terminal, and the other reason is that a lot of factory earth mounting points have paint over the threaded area which makes a very poor earth.
I also have another ground of the same gauge wire to the trunk floor. But that is a good idea about the larger bolt, I may just drill that and retap it for good measure. Thanks.
Although, electrical problems are one problem I have not had,
The removal of paint to give a better earth is a common thing and does help, but you do have to look at ways to stop rust or corrosion forming. The main reason for doing this is to give maximum earth contact for the size terminal, and the other reason is that a lot of factory earth mounting points have paint over the threaded area which makes a very poor earth.
I would prefer to just tap out the hole and remove all traces of paint on the threads than create a potential rust problem ...............
I would prefer to just tap out the hole and remove all traces of paint on the threads than create a potential rust problem ...............
But then you have just created the same rust potential in the threaded area anyway. Both can easily be sorted though. I've seen plenty of factory bolt hole areas that have been full of rust. The bolts themselves usually rust first.
There's no doubt that the area with paint removed doesn't look that good though, but these are usually done in areas that are not seen.
I replaced a couple of hard lines I had made for the coolant reservoir, I believe there is a reason hard lines are not used for such things from the factory,