9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
06-07-2013, 11:57 AM
#3553
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Interesting tid bit. My car runs about 5 degrees hotter at cruise with the Mazdaspeed bumper versus the stock bumper. The MS bumper opening is mostly filled by my inter-cooler so the air has to make a down turn to go under it and make it to the rad. Where as the stock bumper has the separate opening at the bottom front that allows air to get to radiator directly without hitting the inter-cooler first.
But she still runs cool enough. In traffic in 95F weather for an hour or so I was beating on her pretty hard to try and get coolant temp up to see just what it would max out at I was only able to get it up to 215F. So if 215F is my absolute max I am okay with that.
But she still runs cool enough. In traffic in 95F weather for an hour or so I was beating on her pretty hard to try and get coolant temp up to see just what it would max out at I was only able to get it up to 215F. So if 215F is my absolute max I am okay with that.
06-07-2013, 01:04 PM
#3555
Maybe it's those granny panties you're wearing?
Here's a suggestion; lay the intercooler over at a 45 deg angle and add an aluminum perimeter shroud out to the bumper opening such the the air that enters the shroud area is forced through the intercooler and the air entering above it goes to the radiator. My bet is they will both be more effective.
Here's a suggestion; lay the intercooler over at a 45 deg angle and add an aluminum perimeter shroud out to the bumper opening such the the air that enters the shroud area is forced through the intercooler and the air entering above it goes to the radiator. My bet is they will both be more effective.
06-07-2013, 01:13 PM
#3556
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Without, the intake tray is going in tomorrow.
Hoss-05 and I were looking at that last night on his car and I think ducting is a must. I just wish that I did not suck at fabricating,
Maybe it's those granny panties you're wearing?
Here's a suggestion; lay the intercooler over at a 45 deg angle and add an aluminum perimeter shroud out to the bumper opening such the the air that enters the shroud area is forced through the intercooler and the air entering above it goes to the radiator. My bet is they will both be more effective.
Here's a suggestion; lay the intercooler over at a 45 deg angle and add an aluminum perimeter shroud out to the bumper opening such the the air that enters the shroud area is forced through the intercooler and the air entering above it goes to the radiator. My bet is they will both be more effective.
Hoss-05 and I were looking at that last night on his car and I think ducting is a must. I just wish that I did not suck at fabricating,
06-07-2013, 04:20 PM
#3558
Stupid question but Scott im assuming you and the other SARX guys who are boosted basically do your own maintenance on the car as well correct (e.g oil changes, fluid flushes etc). If so do you guys go by mazdas schedule or your modified schedule on how often to do these services.
06-07-2013, 04:30 PM
#3559
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Yeah, dumb question 
. I don't let anyone outside of SARX touch my car. Okay, except Steve Kan, my tuner. But he has a SARX decal on his car so he is sort of a honorary member I change my oil every 2500 miles, my coolant once a year, trans fluid once a year, and diff fluid once a year regardless of mileage. I also change my plugs every 10,000-15,000 miles or so.
But as a general rule for a pretty stock non tracked RX-8 I would say changing the oil every 3,000-4,000 miles and then doing every thing else (trans fluid, diff, coolant, air filter, plugs, and stock coils) yearly is a good idea.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 06-07-2013 at 04:38 PM.
06-07-2013, 06:35 PM
#3560
You don't want flow thru the radiator into the engine bay directly on the intake piping and my FAL fan setup makes it worse in traffic at low speeds because it's pulling so much air. It raises intake air temps significantly. Technically is also affects aero dynamics but that is not the reason I got it, and had a heat barrier put on it. I did it to help decrease intake temps. I will be redoing the Greddy inlet compressor pipe as well and I will have it and the cold side charge pipes coated at Jet Hot as well.
It may all be for nothing, but we will be doing some tests so we shall see.
It may all be for nothing, but we will be doing some tests so we shall see.
Here's a suggestion; lay the intercooler over at a 45 deg angle and add an aluminum perimeter shroud out to the bumper opening such the the air that enters the shroud area is forced through the intercooler and the air entering above it goes to the radiator. My bet is they will both be more effective.
I really should make some nice ducting for the Intercooler and Radiator.
I'll probably do that when I get around to upgrading the Radiator.
07-03-2013, 04:31 PM
#3565
08-07-2013, 05:12 PM
#3571
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
I compression tested the engine last Saturday and compression is still good and the pulses are nice and even. I did have one face on the front that was 3% off but still well within spec. The overall numbers were on the lower side of the scale for the cranking RPMS so I don't expect this engine to last much past 25,000 - 30,000 miles.
I'm not sure what's up with the elevated metals in the oil report, I am thinking if it's not from the engine then possibly it's from the turbo. I have no clue if Turdblown actually had the turbo rebuilt or rebalanced when the Comp billet wheel went on and I do have oil burning occasionally. I still have too much oil pressure at the turbo so part of the problem is my fault so I will install the new restrictor this weekend and see if that helps eliminate it completely.
I also ordered a turbo oil pressure regulator and that will go on as well and I will get the turbo rebuilt if the restrictor doesn't work and it still smokes. The regulator should work out well and the new wastegate actuator should solve my boost drop off issues as well so it will be nice to hold 9-10psi.
I plan on starting a rebuild on a new engine soon and I will document the tear down of a fresh reman purchased from the dealer here for the benefit of the whoever is interested
The car is running great with the exception of dealing with only 4-5psi on occasion and the low idle conditions in the insane 100F+ heat. If ambient temp are 85F and under she drives like a dream. Other than that I just need to get my tray/coolant reservoir/catch can, my oil filter relocation setup installed, and my coolant swapped to the Evans and that will be about it until the next stage of the build.
I'm not sure what's up with the elevated metals in the oil report, I am thinking if it's not from the engine then possibly it's from the turbo. I have no clue if Turdblown actually had the turbo rebuilt or rebalanced when the Comp billet wheel went on and I do have oil burning occasionally. I still have too much oil pressure at the turbo so part of the problem is my fault so I will install the new restrictor this weekend and see if that helps eliminate it completely.
I also ordered a turbo oil pressure regulator and that will go on as well and I will get the turbo rebuilt if the restrictor doesn't work and it still smokes. The regulator should work out well and the new wastegate actuator should solve my boost drop off issues as well so it will be nice to hold 9-10psi.
I plan on starting a rebuild on a new engine soon and I will document the tear down of a fresh reman purchased from the dealer here for the benefit of the whoever is interested
The car is running great with the exception of dealing with only 4-5psi on occasion and the low idle conditions in the insane 100F+ heat. If ambient temp are 85F and under she drives like a dream. Other than that I just need to get my tray/coolant reservoir/catch can, my oil filter relocation setup installed, and my coolant swapped to the Evans and that will be about it until the next stage of the build.
08-08-2013, 12:12 AM
#3574
Hard to believe your just going to rebuild it. Two things come to mind. 1 why do another rebuild if you think your ceramic fortune is failing. 2 are you sure it isn't still breaking in? Maybe the wear will taper off
