10.8 during full boost per Innovate lc1 wideband.

 

Well hopefully now that my mechanical issues are fixed I can sort the tune out when I get time. I am still seeing 10.0 at full tilt and I get spark blow out when that happens.

 

that is pretty rich. I know I dont have to tell you to watch out for oil dilution
If you are having blowout--you may want to try the colder denso (27's) leading plugs and set the gap at around 30-32. The surface gap plug almost require a cdi type ignition to work right. Just a thought?

Have you thought about by running the "shorter" reach plug in the leading positioning--you are actually retarding your timing a little too?

 

fixed that for ya' ... of course you could also install a CO2 kit to put out the fire, just an idea

 

My oil is doing pretty well actually (see my last test in the UOA thread) thankfully. But I have been changing it often regardless. I plan on trying some different plugs but when running that rich I don't think the plugs have anything to do with it. Hopefully I can get some datalogging done this week and get some tuning done.

 

IDK-----even with an a/f of 10 --with the right plug and ignition system--you wouldnt get any blowout.
Still--you are right--tuning would be the best.
When are you going to sell me your wheels?

 

I assume you have the GM truck coils? What dwell settings are you using? Before finally figuring out the proper dwell settings I had blow out at that AFR running NA ...

 

What's wrong with the LS coils? (I assume your being negative by calling them truck coils)

What coils are you using Team if I may ask?

 

No the D585 coils are off the Yukons, some people are still running the mazsport LS2 coils (iirc)

The D585 coils are far superior in their ability to handle heat.

 

the D585 also has a higher output if the dwell is optimized

there are multiple types of LS2 coils, some use the D581 coil , some run the MSD equivalent, etc.


.

 

true that. Those coils have a lot of potential--but getting the dwell right is a challenge--at least for me. For others it is really not a problem. Sigh.
Point is though you shouldnt have blow out with a strong ignition system.
try some other type plug??.

 

Yep, BHR kit.

Stupid image bbcode is not working but her is a link to a screenshot

http://flic.kr/p/e54184

 

+1 Like !!!

 

https://www.rx8club.com/engine-tunin...8/#post4311570

 

you don't have the best coils to start with ...

 

How many D585 coilpacks have you gone through running them at max capacity all the time?

That was my only concern when pushing them farther.

 

none, I am still on the original cheapo cosmetic blem coils I bought off eBay over two years ago

I've seen others fail on brand new kits using really low dwell, so I guess you just never know ...

 

Team, is this table for Yukon coils?

 

it's the table I have been using for quite a while with my GM truck coils

be advised that you should always go slow to start and check/tune AFR, timing, etc. as may be necessary following any dwell map changes ...

the map is not fully maxed out, just close with some margin


.

 

Gotcha.

 

Check the voltage being supplied to the coils. Mine was not system voltage.

The best coil is the ones that works. Lol

 

QFT
I noticed a leaner mixture once I change my dwell.

 

Okay guys, rather than start a new thread I figure I will post here.

My car has hard starts. It starts everytime but long cranking times whether stone cold or hot as F#!k.

• Battery is good and I also tested and tried another battery that is only a few months old. And both batteries are up rated over stock in terms of CA and CCA.
• I replaced my aging original starter with a new 2kw Denso unit
• BHR kit with year old or less wires and coils.
• New plugs (changed thinking they were fouled)
• Reverted my battery relocation back to front to rule that out but it had somewhat hard start before that anyway
• Voltage once the car is started is 14.0-14.3
• cleaned all grounds and checked voltage at each ground and found 14.0-14.3V
• Voltage while starting is 8.5-9.0V via Cobb

So, despite it being the same hot or cold and being an experienced rotary owner I automatically assume it is low compression, even though I have never gone lean and the engine only has 10k on it.

My good buddy comes over with his Mazda compression tester and laptop and we hook it up. We did two tests and then upload the data to his laptop which is running the Mazda compression software and the results are good, within spec. However, the cranking RPM was only 170RPM so the readings were at the bottom of the "within spec" scale. But either way it is good enough (for now).

The cranking speed did not change even with a booster on the battery or with another 100% charged battery hooked up with jumper cables.

So, my next test is at the starter itself. According to the FSM, the minimum voltage should be 11.0V and between 90-100A. Think it could be in the wiring harness?

 

what about ur alternator?


just had a somewhat similar issue but found out my BHR MSD coils went bad... had to replace them... but sadly it is not direct interchangeable with stock coil wires...

had a talk with ex Mazda Jap Techy... they say alternator more than 3 years old should be replaced... they also realised that the alternator provided for the 8 was abit too small for the 8..

 

9k, remember all the problems I had a few months ago were due to the plug on the starter. All because I dared to bump into it.