9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
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OD, mine is already spaced out from the radiator. I did that a while back, I never really noticed a difference though. But yeah I just added spacers, it's easy if you already have everything apart.
well---ok---then.
All the little things that you do adds up. Spacing that a/c codensor from the rad allows the fan to pull more air through. With those suckers you now have--it may make the condensor bow inward and your hood bulge
All the little things that you do adds up. Spacing that a/c codensor from the rad allows the fan to pull more air through. With those suckers you now have--it may make the condensor bow inward and your hood bulge
Wouldn't the gap between the two of them create small amount of turbulence?
I think the best solution is a higher rated fan with the same stock amp draw. We just need to wait for the technology which is coming out soon...
I think the best solution is a higher rated fan with the same stock amp draw. We just need to wait for the technology which is coming out soon...
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I was actually talking to my dad about this over the weekend while we were working on his Jeep. My dads Jeep (the one we were working on anyway) was purchased from the Air Force so it has a few things consumer jeeps do not have like huge separate coolers for the the oil and trans. The radiator, oil cooler, and trans cooler are all sandwiched up front with no gap between them. My dad said it is always that way on trucks.
air (fluid) like electricity will flow in the path of least resistance. If you create a gap, the air will stream out along the edges of the radiator instead of forced through the condenser, like Dannobre said, highly affecting the cooling of the condenser.
If you are going to space them out, you need to build a shroud to prevent air escaping from the edges.
i am speaking of better efficentcy when the fans are on--not from the airpressure within the air dam when the fans are not on.
Air flows through the condensor/radiator because of a pressure difference between the front part and the back part. When puller fans come on they provide less pressure on the engine side allowing the air from the air dam side to flow inward. The a/c condensor provide a little restriction to that air flow. Plus if the a/c is on the air is heated a little before it actually gets to the rad.
So in the interest of squeezing out everything we can from the radiator/fans--get rid of a little restiction by moving the a/c condensor out a little. That allows fresh air to enter through the sides/all around. Yes it will reduce the effectivness of the a/c a little while sitting still, but not when the car is moving. I havent noticed any difference really in the a/c. myself.
Yep the military goes for the easy field repair and less complex systems. Rip it out and replace it in the field is a fast manner. Plus they overdesign the capacities by a 1000 or whatever then charge 100000 dollars more for it. What a minute--that IS like ours isnt it---dang!
Air flows through the condensor/radiator because of a pressure difference between the front part and the back part. When puller fans come on they provide less pressure on the engine side allowing the air from the air dam side to flow inward. The a/c condensor provide a little restriction to that air flow. Plus if the a/c is on the air is heated a little before it actually gets to the rad.
So in the interest of squeezing out everything we can from the radiator/fans--get rid of a little restiction by moving the a/c condensor out a little. That allows fresh air to enter through the sides/all around. Yes it will reduce the effectivness of the a/c a little while sitting still, but not when the car is moving. I havent noticed any difference really in the a/c. myself.
Yep the military goes for the easy field repair and less complex systems. Rip it out and replace it in the field is a fast manner. Plus they overdesign the capacities by a 1000 or whatever then charge 100000 dollars more for it. What a minute--that IS like ours isnt it---dang!
My AC is already non-functional when sitting still on a 100* day.
The best solution here is to run a larger fan, that will solve our crappy A/C issue and our high water temp issue. Which technically are one in the same.
The best solution here is to run a larger fan, that will solve our crappy A/C issue and our high water temp issue. Which technically are one in the same.
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We shall see, right now I am only driving to work and back so I don't get my coolant temps over 200F. I am ready to install this bad boy but I need the mounting pins.
wish i could be there when you first turn it on and watch all the stuff that will be blowing--small dogs, the new york times, women on bicycles--you know stuff
You ought to make a you tube vid!
Shady--you crack me up man--lol.

You ought to make a you tube vid!
Shady--you crack me up man--lol.
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Yeah I will have everything apart and just put it back to the stock way. With these fans and the other cooler and fan I don't think running hot will be an issue that I will have again. Over cooling will probably be an issue but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Jun 12, 2012 at 04:51 PM.
Over cooling isn't a problem as long as you have thermostats 
I have a huge rad and oil coolers...and they sit right at the thermostat open temp and barely move from there

I have a huge rad and oil coolers...and they sit right at the thermostat open temp and barely move from there
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Awesome. My oil temps have been great, they usually sit right above the oil thermostat temp at 190F or so, topping out at 200-210F max..
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Jun 12, 2012 at 11:55 PM.
Thread Starter
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Thread Starter
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From: San Antonio, Texas
So, with the help of Piroxide, Hector Castillo, and Hoss-05 I managed to get my new secondary cooler w/fan, FAL Fans/shroud setup, and my boost controller installed
The new fans and cooler make a huge difference. We went out last night and rowed through the gears and I could not get coolant temps above 190F which was a nice change from the easily obtained 210-215F I was seeing under similar conditions. The FAL fans blow much harder and I think removing the existing secondary cooler I had helped because it was blocking air flow to the rad.
The new secondary Derale cooler with built in fan is mounted where my stock second oil cooler was. I don't think the fan will be needed but i have it switched so if i need it in traffic or just cool the coolant off quicker it is there. Overall it's a sweet setup that was achieved through trial an error
This is the Derale unit. Hoss-05 reversed one of the mounts that came with the Derale and then fabbed up and extra support. Thanks Hoss!
Don't mind the beat up shroud, I was just waiting to finish all this crap before replacing it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7394556276/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7394553484/
The new fans and cooler make a huge difference. We went out last night and rowed through the gears and I could not get coolant temps above 190F which was a nice change from the easily obtained 210-215F I was seeing under similar conditions. The FAL fans blow much harder and I think removing the existing secondary cooler I had helped because it was blocking air flow to the rad.
The new secondary Derale cooler with built in fan is mounted where my stock second oil cooler was. I don't think the fan will be needed but i have it switched so if i need it in traffic or just cool the coolant off quicker it is there. Overall it's a sweet setup that was achieved through trial an error

This is the Derale unit. Hoss-05 reversed one of the mounts that came with the Derale and then fabbed up and extra support. Thanks Hoss!
Don't mind the beat up shroud, I was just waiting to finish all this crap before replacing it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7394556276/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/7394553484/
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Jun 18, 2012 at 10:37 AM.


