firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Couldn't agree more. I bought my front components online and they were still $380...

but I love them. Think they were a steal at that price. I honestly don't know what I will do when these finally die on me. (Been going strong for about 5 years now)

RxJaye

iTrader: (2)

Ive got 2 Rockford Fosgate Power Series T1 12's and 1 Power Series T1 15 in the trunk driven by a Rockford Punch 550.2 to the 12's and a Rockford Punch 600.1db to the 15. I upgraded the remotes to the amps to Power Series PPBs and integrated them into the shifter panel infront of the heated seat switches. Was driven by the Headunit that I installed RCA gain adjustment ***** in the blank "tape/MD" plate below the volume ****. A dice (they make mazdas kit, the rockford fosgate kit etc. it plugs into the SAT radio/CD changer connector on the back for CD quality playback with charging, VERY nice kit) iPod integration kit and a Pac-Audio dual RCA output patch hooked between the factory wiring harness and the head unit with the stock Bose inside speakers.

I added Sirius and concealed the reciever in the ashtray and ran it through the Aux input in the iPod intagration unit.

Im upgrading the headunit to an Alpine IVA-W203 today. I Plan on changing the center channel, that I'll lose from the headunit swap, to a MB Quart Premium series 4" component and install Extra Tweeters at the bottom of the center stack on the sides.

If everything works out I'll be selling the Siriurs setup, Dice iPod integration kit and RCA output setup on here

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Before I comment.... pictures?

bonestockrotary

Trust me, I completely understand. I don skimp on important things. Hence the ohlins suspension, and 0 miles ls6 I'm gettin for my 7. On the other hand I will make a calculated judgement on things that can be substituted with other quality products. Hence why I went with a FI sub vs the kicker I wanted. I has solarbaric l7s in my fc. I know how they sound. I did some shopping, found a less expensive sub that I'm MORE than happy with. Money saved. Bones is still happy

Davey's RX-8

iTrader: (1)

Kenwood DDX812 HU
Sirius satellite (lifetime subscriber w/ Best of XM)
Fronts are Boston Acoustic 6.5.3
Rears are Boston Acoustic Z60
JL 12w7 sub
Amps are JL 750/1 HD and 600/4 HD

Will post pics later.

RxJaye

iTrader: (2)

I posted a picture of the truck in my last post. Heres the dash. It has a Rotor shaped Volume ****. Im in the middle of switching the headunit so the shifter plate is off but I snapped a pic of it for you. Too keep the look the same I bought another remote for the amps and used the plate and ***** off it when i put the gain controls in the factory headunit.

bonestockrotary

i got all the **** installed. and then IMMEDIATELY got threatened with a noise pollution ticket. i LOVE ZEE BASS. but i gotta figure out how to make my mirrors stop rattling. i've got turned down right now for supreme sound quality. man i used to think these subs were all hype. i love it.

canaryrx8

iTrader: (3)

cool man, congrats.

RxJaye

iTrader: (2)

The colored top half of my mirrors were rattling. Took me over a year to figure it out. I was about ready to say $crew it and fill them with foam. I barely seperated mine and put foam strips there. you cant see it and no more rattle. Still working on door handles tho.

I got amazing sound quality out of mine even with the big subs, I could go louder if I want to and I do during competitions but I too first got mine installed and actually got a ticket.

Just need to finish the rest of the inside. Im getting tired of working on the car, but man it get sweeter everytime I sit in it.

bonestockrotary

well i rewired my sub to 4 ohm instead of 2. so that they wouldn't give me a ticket. then got ANOTHER warning. with my volume on like three. this is bullshit. anybody figure out how to make your trunk not rattle?

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

I'd like to know how you did that...

canaryrx8

iTrader: (3)

sound deadening is your friend, I have it all over the place in my car, makes a huge difference. I think what I figured out though is that while it may help to just have it one spot, the more you can spread it throughout the vehicle the better off you are. As far as door handle rattles, I have the ultimate solution for that

RxJaye

iTrader: (2)

Shave them off? lol

Im about to sound deaden the whole car. Headliner, floor, entire trunk 2-3 times, Plus spray foam can be an even better friend than sound deadener. It gets into the places Sound deadener cant. I dont thinnk anyone around here has ever heard of deadening their cars, everything rattles. Couple of things that makes a big difference on the trunk are to take the panels out from behind the seats so its just foam and the biggest is to port the rear deck lid.

RxJaye

iTrader: (2)

I do have a question to those without factory Bose. Do the speaker wires run like they would in a normal car or do the run back to where the Bose amp would be on the rear decklid and connect with a jumper? Ive seen it both ways in other cars. Im going to be upgrading my mids/tweets in the next few months and I'm trying to plot the best way to run the wires from the amp that I'm putting under the dash or seat (seat if it fits with the other one). I have a bose unit and Id love to just be able to get a jumper between the 2 connectors then get some speaker wire adapters at the speakers them selves and be done with it. But things usually arent that simple for me.

Also what are some of the more high end mids/tweets now. It used to be MB Quart back when they cost $600-700 for competion Q series, now I see their preminiums are fairly cheap. Last nice set I bought were Eclipse 8062 6.5" got a great deal on those for $400 but that was 10 years ago. I got out of the game for awhile (kids will do that to you, lol).

bonestockrotary

i option for dual 2 ohm voice coils. when wired parallel, the resistance is 2ohms. when wired in sequence it has twice the resistance. therefore = 4ohms.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Oooo good question. I'd like to know this too.

We can point you in the direction of some quality components, but ultimately you should listen to them before you purchase. Each has their own fingerprint. Each performs well, but equally different from their competition. Too many variables come into play with a full component set. I like the tweeters on some sets, but the woofer on another. And then I think.... I wonder if the crossover is causing that? What if I used the crossover from this set on this other set of speakers?? LOL

MQ Quart got bought out by Maxxsonics a couple/few years ago. Maxxsonics makes Crunch and Autotek.....not exactly high end stuff. Arc, Rainbow, CDT, Image Dynamics and Focal have, and still do, make high-end gear. Most have entry level stuff in the ~$200 range (as MB Quart did back in the day) but also have sets in the $600 area too. RE Audio makes component sets now. They made outstanding subwoofers to start with, so I assume their components are on par. Think they're around $400. And believe it or not, I've been impressed with Polk's higher end stuff.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

When wired in parallel, you have a 1 ohm load.

bonestockrotary

um no.... if i had dual 1ohm voice coils wired in parallel it would be 1 ohm load. but since both my voice coils are 2 ohm. even when wired in parrallel, they are a 2ohm load

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Excuse me. Missed the DVC part. A parallel/parallel connection would be .5 ohm. A series/parallel connection would give you 2 ohms as you stated. However, a series/series connection would yield an 8 ohm load nominal. You cannot achieve a 4 ohm load.

xShinka666x

just to diagram what firebirdude said
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...2&woofer_imp=3 4 ohms is impossible

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

perfect pic. thanks bro.

bonestockrotary

that's with two sub woofers. both of which have dvc. i have 1 sub. when wired in sequence it would be the same as 2 subs with svc. in which case you take the resistance of each voice coil and add it together. search 1 sub with 2 ohm dual voice coils. you're right. when wired in parallel they are 1 ohm load. i was wrong about that. but when wired in sequence it is 4 ohms.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Series sweetheart. Series.

bonestockrotary

same difference. i'm dyslexic. it all looks the same to me "s word" "s word" i will admit defeat on the parallel. but i know how i have it wired produces 4 ohms. you are a install god and blah blah blah. i'm sure how i phrased it is the subject of confusion here. and i'll accept the blame

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

lol wasn't looking to be proclaimed right. Just wanting you to understand you have your loads mixed up somehow. You're the one swapping them around in an attempt to make less noise. lol

No set up can go from a 2 to a 4 ohm load... unless you have 4 subs or quad-coils.

Oh and try turning the gain and bass boost down. I don't know an amp in existence that makes much power into a 4 ohm load with the gain pegged at min.