Interest in US-made Burnout KD-IV kit?
but it didn't say the resin was black??
12-31-2006, 10:16 PM
#77
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Nope, just said that the resin would make the CF invisible. CF swathed in black goop would be pretty darn invisible.
Again, it's not me doing this. Shine Auto Project is making the molds of the Burnout kit I purchased... we're testing the fit on my 2006 RX-8, and they're making changes that I request in order to make the kit much easier to mount and more durable. I do not have a background in bodykit design. I photograph cars and write articles for a living. I have seen a BUNCH of bad bodykits which STILL manage to win awards at carshows (how that happens escapes me). Shine Auto Project is being extraordinarily nice in doing these modifications, instead of straight knock-off pieces. The original Burnout pieces were nice, but their mounting ideas left a great deal to be desired.
Again, it's not me doing this. Shine Auto Project is making the molds of the Burnout kit I purchased... we're testing the fit on my 2006 RX-8, and they're making changes that I request in order to make the kit much easier to mount and more durable. I do not have a background in bodykit design. I photograph cars and write articles for a living. I have seen a BUNCH of bad bodykits which STILL manage to win awards at carshows (how that happens escapes me). Shine Auto Project is being extraordinarily nice in doing these modifications, instead of straight knock-off pieces. The original Burnout pieces were nice, but their mounting ideas left a great deal to be desired.
01-01-2007, 12:08 AM
#79
I'm not sure there's any or much of an SCCA market. I'd like to do something as I'm running out of allowable performance mods. I hit so many cones that flexible is good, but weight is bad. The Autoexe TypeS looks nice, but it's fiberglass so I worry about it's strength. There are some others I like too, but again I worry about how well they'd hold up to abuse.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 01-01-2007 at 12:38 AM.
01-01-2007, 11:49 AM
#80
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I'd guesstimate that the Shine Auto Project Autoexe front bumper weighs a pound or two less than stock, despite being "deeper" in the front. You have to see their videos on their eBay store to understand just how much these pieces will flex. It's amazing! I don't think a cone will break one.
01-01-2007, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
OK, I thought you were referring to the actual Autoexe bumper, not a Shine replica
And a link to their eBay listing for the Autoexe Spec A front and rear fascias.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda...spagenameZWDVW
They have an eBay store with 63 listings in it. If they're all separate pieces, that's an impressive catalog of parts! They don't have another website but hey, if it keeps the cost of aero parts down, that's fine by me.
Again, I don't work for them so whether you purchase or not is immaterial to me. I like the quality of their stuff... I've held this nose and bumper cover in my hands and felt its light weight. It looks like very high quality stuff, made with long strand fiberglass mat and their cool flexible resin. For someone accustomed to fiberglass parts which will break if handled incorrectly, this stuff is eye-opening.
bTW-Happy New Year Rotorheads!
Eric
01-02-2007, 01:52 PM
#84
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Oh, you've got to remove the entire bumper brace for the Autoexe? That sucks, I really like that kit. What about the replica Mazdaspeed 2 kit from Acolade? Wonder if that one will work without removing the brace.
01-02-2007, 02:06 PM
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You can trim the Autoexe kit to fit around the bumper brace (and paint the visible portion of the brace black). They had one Autoexe nose sitting there already trimmed that way at one time when I was there. Once trimmed and mounted, only the lower edge of the brace is visible through the radiator opening.
01-02-2007, 06:37 PM
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The hybrid chemicals that we use to make our parts have high viscocity. To make CF parts without distorting much of the carbon weave. You need low viscocity to get it to look nice, which is what having a CF piece is all about.
01-02-2007, 08:35 PM
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Actually, Ken did use "sticky" on the phone today, and that's why the word "stuck" in my mind. 
Someday we'll have both pretty and flexible CF in the same formula... mark my words. You heard it here first!
Someday we'll have both pretty and flexible CF in the same formula... mark my words. You heard it here first!
01-02-2007, 08:38 PM
#93
Originally Posted by PhotoMunkey
Actually, Ken did use "sticky" on the phone today, and that's why the word "stuck" in my mind. Someday we'll have both pretty and flexible CF in the same formula... mark my words. You heard it here first!
Someday we'll have both pretty and flexible CF in the same formula... mark my words. You heard it here first!beers
01-02-2007, 09:53 PM
#94
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The kit looks great!
Once we pay at this point, how much time are we talking before arrival?
What condition will the kit be in when we receive it? (i.e. primed and ready for paint or basically nude where sanding, etc. is necessary)
Once painted, is this something I can install myself or should it be completed at a qualtiy body shop?
I'm trying to figure out what my costs will be after I spend the $800.
Thank you in advance for your help.
Once we pay at this point, how much time are we talking before arrival?
What condition will the kit be in when we receive it? (i.e. primed and ready for paint or basically nude where sanding, etc. is necessary)
Once painted, is this something I can install myself or should it be completed at a qualtiy body shop?
I'm trying to figure out what my costs will be after I spend the $800.
Thank you in advance for your help.
01-03-2007, 11:10 AM
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If the parts are flexible though wouldn't it be a bad idea to paint a flexible part off the car if there is some bending fitting before it's put on? Or is that the point of test fitting?
I painted my evo-r eyelids off the car and once they put them on the car the cracked and looked horrible. They mentioned a product they can put in the paint to help prevent that but the second time around I had them put on the car first and then painted.
I suppose either way works but to be safe, I'll do what that particular body shop recommends.
I painted my evo-r eyelids off the car and once they put them on the car the cracked and looked horrible. They mentioned a product they can put in the paint to help prevent that but the second time around I had them put on the car first and then painted.
I suppose either way works but to be safe, I'll do what that particular body shop recommends.
