Share your CZ Maps
^ Oh damn, I never thought about that correlation. I think you are right. Sheesh, how could I missed that. I just checked the red airflow lines in comparison to blue and green at the lower rpms before the highlighted section, it does seem like there's more airflow reported in stock form. Alright, alright, I'll dismiss it :D
just something to think about for the people out there tuning...
In october when it was about 70 degrees out my map was tuned to about 13.0 a/f . I haven't done anything to it in 4 months now and last weekend I checked it on a 25 degree day and the a/f ratio was about 13.5. Which makes sense with the colder and denser air and I fully expected it, but it could be alarming if people with more aggressive maps tuned in summer are still using them in the winter (providing it actually gets cold where you are in the winter....).
In october when it was about 70 degrees out my map was tuned to about 13.0 a/f . I haven't done anything to it in 4 months now and last weekend I checked it on a 25 degree day and the a/f ratio was about 13.5. Which makes sense with the colder and denser air and I fully expected it, but it could be alarming if people with more aggressive maps tuned in summer are still using them in the winter (providing it actually gets cold where you are in the winter....).
Long term fuel trim
Some of you who are tuning have posted that the car ECU "learns" a long term fuel trim and adjusts against the tuning.
You are right!
BUT:
The car checks AFR when it is in closed loop mode.
That is below 70% throttle, and below the closed loop/open loop transition rpm.
So, what IS the transition rpm?
By measurement:
1st gear: 6,200rpm
2nd gear: 5,500rpm
3rd gear: 4,800rpm
4th gear and up - same as 3rd.
So, some lessons to derive from this:
1) Tune above transition point ( 6,200) and do NOT touch the fuel/air below 6,200 unless it is only 5% or less.
2) If you want to tune down to 5,500 avoid full throttle in 1st gear below 6,200
3) If you want it tune more, and want to get around the "learned"long term trims, simply disconnect the battery ground if the ECU "learns" a fule trim.
This returns the car to default fuel/air settings.
Of course it will "learn" again, so this is not a long term solutiion.
I installed a replacement battery groundpost that has a 1/4 turn **** to disconnect. This allows for quick and easy resets.
Also, regarding weather and temperatures:
If you tune in cold weather the air is denser.
When you run at a higher temp the air is less dense.
That means the mixture will be a bit different.
Humidity will also affect it.
The car has a barometric perssure sensor as well, so it does compensate for altitude and air pressure change due to weather, however it does not have a means for detecting humidity.
My advice, if doing fairly aggressive maps is to do a set for both cold/dry conditions and for warm/wet ones.
Save them and use as needed.
You are right!
BUT:
The car checks AFR when it is in closed loop mode.
That is below 70% throttle, and below the closed loop/open loop transition rpm.
So, what IS the transition rpm?
By measurement:
1st gear: 6,200rpm
2nd gear: 5,500rpm
3rd gear: 4,800rpm
4th gear and up - same as 3rd.
So, some lessons to derive from this:
1) Tune above transition point ( 6,200) and do NOT touch the fuel/air below 6,200 unless it is only 5% or less.
2) If you want to tune down to 5,500 avoid full throttle in 1st gear below 6,200
3) If you want it tune more, and want to get around the "learned"long term trims, simply disconnect the battery ground if the ECU "learns" a fule trim.
This returns the car to default fuel/air settings.
Of course it will "learn" again, so this is not a long term solutiion.
I installed a replacement battery groundpost that has a 1/4 turn **** to disconnect. This allows for quick and easy resets.
Also, regarding weather and temperatures:
If you tune in cold weather the air is denser.
When you run at a higher temp the air is less dense.
That means the mixture will be a bit different.
Humidity will also affect it.
The car has a barometric perssure sensor as well, so it does compensate for altitude and air pressure change due to weather, however it does not have a means for detecting humidity.
My advice, if doing fairly aggressive maps is to do a set for both cold/dry conditions and for warm/wet ones.
Save them and use as needed.
Good info CZ. I'm almost at the ready point of trying to tune a little more out of er. I was holding back because of the info on the ecu learning and nullifying you work. The battery trick is slick. Still have to reset all your radio stations lol! Again thanks for this
olddragger
I know you are a long way off but I wish you could be at Road Atlanta with us on march 19/20 last count I believe we will have 10 RX8's on the track at the same time!
olddragger
I know you are a long way off but I wish you could be at Road Atlanta with us on march 19/20 last count I believe we will have 10 RX8's on the track at the same time!
Can someone post their stock 1.1 map (actual GSC file) and the stock 2 map? I have looked all over the place and can't find either. I have inadvertently wiped out my default 1.1 map and don't have a backup.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Hopefully someone will have the half rpm maps...or e-mail Maurice
maurice@harddata.com and ask him for them
maurice@harddata.com and ask him for them
When I try to open the file it says "the old format was replaced with new format" I click ok then when I try to export it, It says I performed and illgeal operation and shut my Greddy software down.
Latest version is 1.13.
You can go grab the upgrade along with the newer firmware here:
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/
You can go grab the upgrade along with the newer firmware here:
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/


