I have a few spots with 10-12degrees of advance added...no pinging

 

Ya know, I thought about doing this a while back and meant to ask Maurice about it, but forgot. Ah well.

As long as it's going now, here's my High-Altitude map. You'll need to rename it from .txt (which I did so I could post it) to .GSC so you can load it.

 

stage 1.1 was a physical and marketing combination of stage 1 and 2, not a tuning combination.

 

Actually, Stage 1.1 was what some of us started calling the CanZoomer Stage 1 when the first fix came out, ala "fixpack 1" so Stage 1.1 - and the name just kinda stuck. It's nothing from Maurice himself. By this same reasoning, we'd now be at Stage 1.3 . :D

 

the units still ship with stage 1.1 written on them. the +.1 stage represents the addition of ignition circuitry

 

are there any maps or guidelines for tuning out there for running 89 octane gas??

I miss getting 2-3mpg better gas milage and paying 8 cents less a gallon with 89 octane over 93 octane...

 

here's my contribution...

map,
dyno data showing stock/4 degrees advance/6 degrees advance (done with Canscan calcs), - 10-20hp gain from 5500 - 9000 rpms
a/f ratios in 1/2 rpm scale



...the difference is quite noticable :p

 

Nice. But how come your ignition map is from 0.00 - 3.00 only? Doesn't yours go up to 4.05? Mine does. My ignition map is from cz1.1 which zooms in more where it really happens, 2.90 - 4.05.

From support tool logs, you really dont hit Airfow of less than 2.90 once you're in the 4000 rpm range. From looking at your map, if you do a trace map while running in the "performance range" I can bet that your tool will only run around the top 2 rows of your ignition map. Those are the only rows worth tuning the way you setup your airflow map. You know I would suggest you expand your tuning range from 2.90 - 4.00 or something. The rest below that is meaningless unless you are tuning anything below 4000 rpm. That way, you'll have more cells to control and fine tune; cells that actually matter.

 

I echo the same issue as Xyntax. Why are all of you using 0.00-3.00 V range. I have noticed most has that range for their advance. Unless I am wrong I do not think you will dip below 3.0 V unless you are running below 4000 RPM. Can you explain why are you are running this range? Why are the maps from Maurice come with both variations. I would like to hear your opinions. Many thanks in advance

Mark

 

this is a great thread guys. Just wanted to give you some recognition.

 

when you get above 3.0V the unit is just going to take values from the top line (as from what I was told)... so seeing that everything was pretty much constant on the top end I just left it at 3.0V for the max

 

^ That's not true. Try making your range between 3.00 - 4.05 and run a map trace. You will see the yellow marker run around your matrix. That means it is taking those adjustment values at every range not just top range.

 

I will have to agree with Xyntax again. I did exactly that and the trace runs around the matrix. Perhaps Maurice or RX friend can field this question. Please share your thoughts.

Thanks

Mark

 

well, the only difference in tuning on the graph I p0sted between "latest" and "previous" was adding the 2-4 degrees of timing wherever you don't see the 6 degrees of timing on the map (and where you see 6 degrees of timing it was 4 degrees)...

it sure feels like it made a difference to me as again if it goes over-range its just going to pick up the closest value from my understanding.

 

well... I am going to laod up your map as is, and see if I can see a difference. It sure would be nice if Maurice can offer some insight on this. I will let you know how the car feels after I try it. Thank you for the input

Mark

 

Does anyone have the Stage 2 map on a half RPM scale? Also, If you were to run the Stage 2 map without getting the midpipe would you have any damage other then the Cat? If not, would the cat just not last as long, or would it melt? Thanks for your help guys.

 

for what its worth, my car actually can run that map with only 89 octane it appears (ok my current tank is 3/4 89octane and 1/4 93 octane... i'll see what happens next tank i guess)

 

Just got the Stage 2 map for the Mflash. Thanks Maurice...He responded to my email within 5 mins. The question still remains though. Will it be safe to run the Stage two map with the stock Cat for a few months until I get the cash for a midpipe?I uploaded it this evening and ran the car for about an hour without any problems or hesitation...well a little hesitation, but that was on the way to the gas station to fill up with 93 because I was running 89 with no problems with stage 1. Anyway, there is a very noticeable difference in power between stage 1 and 2. I am very impressed... Any advise on the cat situation would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

 

guys please bear with me as I am a newbie to the tuning world. I have the cz 1.1 and m flash. No problems with it/car. But i am interested in getting the stage 2 map and installing it in the cz unit. How do I do that?
thxs and great thread
olddragger

 

well, the gist of the process is...

- install the greddy software, and install the cable software
- plug in the programming cable to the cz unit with the funky looking USB side towards the unit and the other side in the computer
- turn the ignition to the "ON" position
- start the Greddy software
- It should start automatically. If you get a message that says you must work offline you need to click on OPTION and select a different com port. Repeat until it starts up and doesn't give you the offline message.
- Go to file and open the file you wish to upload
- If you don't want to modify the map just click on the Export Map Icon and you should see a progress bar and eventually that the export was sucessful.
- If you wish to modify the map click on the buttons for the a/f map and the ignition map. Basically putting a higher number in the a/f map will raise your a/f ratio, but you will need to get a feel for how much of a change it has (this is where a CANscan or O2 sensor will be beneficial). Ignition advance gets added in the ignition table directly (6 will give you 6 degrees of advance) but the change will not show up on a CANScan.

- This last step should be done at least the first time you use the unit...
- Go to Settings, Parameter Setting, and then click on the Throttle Setting button and folow the instructions to calibrate the CZ unit to your Throttle Posistion Sensor.

Happy rotoring !

 

jason hamilton did a nice write up on this, check it out

 

The stage 2 map USED to refer to one that Maurice had tuned a lot more ignition advance into, and it resulted in a LOT higher exhaust gas temperatures. Therefore, I'd be careful about running the Stage 2 map with a stock cat, or you may rapidly fry the cat.

 

Do you need the stage 2 map?

Vince

 

hey guys,
i took the chicken way out. since i had an "old version"of the cz I just sent it back to Mauricehad hime update the unit and install the stage 2 map. He gave me excellant service by the way. I have just installed it and I can tell a differance! It's much better above 5K! I do have some skipping at low(2-4K) that is transient in nature ONLY when its a load on the car. I think the computer is learning. Omicron thanks for the advice. I was aware of that though and still made that decision. I'm stupid. Rx3 thanks for the offer. Soon I hope to the get the can scan unit and start living in a new world.
zoom zoom guys
olddragger

 

If you have the stage 2 full rpm map just released and want to try and get rid of the sub 5K stutter......in the first line of the timing map change the #'s to all zeros. Mine were at 5 deg advance above 2.2V and my car didn't like it. Didn't seem to change performance just got rid of the hesitation