I'm going to use that for a sig :lol
Edit post 1000! and a useless one at that.

 

Yeah, just send me a reminder at ap@mazdamaniac (.com) and I'll send you a "questionnaire" so we can get you dialed in .
Expect about a week delay on the response.

 

i read something about short term fuel trim??

what was it?

beers

 

hey jeff...i still need that new calibration with the CEL code delete. please, let me know what i have to email you to get this.

 

What CAI are you using? I found that really small changes in the CAI setup greatly affects how the car will behave - everything from startup, to idle, and just driving around. I just put my screen on and replaced a few of the old couplers to better fitting ones and recirculated my BOV and there was a HUGE difference. I still got that 3k rpm light load richness, but only for a very short time now (the cat-protect openloop?). If that was changed on my calibrations, I think my car would be perfect.

 

Send it right now and I will change it right now.

 

AWESOME!!! Sent from sfu.ca email acct. (two calibrations attached. One is for my stock injector setup I am using now, and the other is the one you sent for the 735 injectors I will use later on this week) Please let me know you got it ok. I'm starting to like my car again for the first time in six months. Thanks!!!

 

My CAI is custom that someone made for me a while back ago. This was when I was running the car with int-x. I will take a picture of the CAI. I am trying to figure out a better design for a new CAI that would be easy to put two screens in. Will update when i get home.

 

Sorry if I missed something, but why do you want to put two screens in? Maybe when you get the CAI setup nicely, one screen before the MAF will work good. Just make a new one and have as long a length possible before and after the MAF and a screen before it. You can buy a 3.5" OD 18" pipe, cut it to 12" and drill a 1" hole in the middle. Then get a 45 degree silicone reducing 3.5 to 3" coupler and also a 90 degree reducer (3.5 to 3) from siliconeintakes.com. Then get a 3" OD 18" vibrant polished aluminum pipe and cut it to about a foot, then get the thinnest K&N filter that has a 3" ID opening. There's your CAI and it will work perfectly for about 100 bucks. You just need your original plastic maf mount to strap over the 1" hole and a piece of mesh from your screen door jammed between the 3.5" pipe and the silicone 90. A perfect CAI for the AP, DIY. There are more detailed instructions and pics in a different thread of something really similiar.

 

does this completely fix the rich afr during boost?

 

Not necessarily, though it will fix the overall drivability of the car.
Rich in boost is mostly individual tuning.

 

I sent it to your 'ap' address only from my sfu.ca acct. Did you get it? thanks!

 

Got it.
I'll send you both tomorrow. (Later today, actually.)

 

Hey MM,
We need to get together to smooth out the Auto's tune, or just modify the 5b I sent and send it back.

 

Got it, thanks!! OMG, this is the first time since Feb that my car drives almost perfect, like OEM right from the factory!!! HOLY CRAP!. I can't wait to see what it will be like after the turbo upgrade. The only thing that happened that was a little strange is that I drove thru a car wash where they had the underbody jets to clean underneath and I think some water shot up and drenched my air intake. The car drove like **** for about an hour after that. I guess I should get a splash guard or something for my air filter - or not drive thru those kinda car washes anymore.

 

More likely you soaked a plug wire or a connector for a sensor.

 

You mean pull the OMP completely?
I don't know for sure.
The P1686, P1687 and P1688 can be made to go away, but I don't know what the PCM will think of it being completely gone.

Any particular reason you want to do that?

 

am i being ignored here? please, jeff, i need some sort of answer.

 

To what?
You said you are running v3_5b and it is slightly rich but otherwise good. What do you need?

 

you sent me an email telling me that the CEL situation was addressed. just wondering what the status was on that. my calibration is ok, i just need to have my CEL codes cleared

 

Ahh. OK. I'll send a copy over.

 

Done.

 

thanks jeff. sorry about the confusion.

 

No sweat, dude.
I'm **** poor at organization and I get easily distracted by shiny objects.

Those calibrations should set you up.
The only CEL that is still not properly addressed is the 301/302.
Trey sent me this today:

So, they are working on it.