It will go out on its own after a few drive cycles.

 

Oh really? I guess nothign to worry about then ;p

 

I have read this thread over and over a few times to get me prepared for my FI days. I am finally done and everything is running good. I am curious though as some of you are running diferent maps over and over to get your car running good and yet I am using the v1_0 and my car is running great. It's the first map I have used and seems to work great with the car. My STFT is 5-6 and my LTFT is -0. My WOT afr at 5.5k rpm is between 11.3-12.1. Every other rpm while not in boost is between 14-15.4 and when I let of the throttle in gear I am pegged at 20.3. From what I read that is almost perfect. I am still getting throttel jump at idle between 750-1.2k rpm with the ocasssional dip below750. The PCM catches it self and adjust accordingly. Should I stay with the v1_0 map or should I switch to a diferent map to cure the occasional stumble? I only have 56 miles on the map.

 

Not all cars are the same. There are slight variations. Injectors rated at NCC might be off a few % from car to car. Your intake choice, and so on.

I found the map from Jeff worked almost perfectly out of the box too, once I had a decent CAI. Using the GReddy maf housing should be avoided.

 

Leave it alone.
After a few days, lemme know how it is.

 

I guess I will stay with it. I would like to have my same map with the ability to turn the fans on sooner. My intake temps are 4 degrees above ambient at night and day time. My coolant temps is a constant 183 degrees on diferent ocassions while running.

 

uhh. You don't want the coolant cooler than 180F.

 

It hasnt moved from 183 and I have no idea how to change it.

 

My car is running great with the v1_0 map. I did get a few CELs, but went away after a few drive cycles, replacing with a new gas cap, and removing the Mazsport Cooling kit.

A P0139 CEL O2 sensor slow response bank 2, but it went away after a few drive cycles. Also, had an EVAP CEL that was fixed with a new gas cap. Shouldn't the P0139 CEL be masked with the latest AP flash?

Last one was a a CEL caused by the Mazsport Cooling kit that I did not remove before flashing with the AP. I sold the Cooling kit, but I speculate that the kit may have been damaged running the flash with it, not sure how this can happen.

 

Send me a copy of your calibration (attach it to the e-mail) to ap@mazdamaniac (.com) and I'll verify the CEL delete.
Some of the earliest calibrations had a different CEL delete method.

 

I am noticing my P0139 CEL is now intermittent, goes off and comes on depending on how aggressive I am driving over a few drive cycles. I'll send my latest calibration to MM. Overall the car is now a perfect DD beast .

 

Yeah. Send it!

Anyone that is getting CELs, send me your calibration and I'll make sure you have the latest CEL-delete patch.

 

sent

 

I have been having a series of hard starts recently since my install. They are hit and miss. I drove it the other night and stopped off at the beach with a few friends and it started fine during the multiple stops we had. On one occassion it needed 3 trys to get it to start. It has done it 3 times so far. I have 23k on original plugs and coils so I thought it was those and am planning on changing both soon. I talked to Ray about the BHR coils since I am on the list and he said it's possible those two things are my issue but to get with you anyway. He said you have experienced these issues with the GReddy before. Any thoughts?

 

i would pull and look at the plugs first..

that should give you a direction to go..

beers

 

Haven't done it yet so I will look into it. What size is the plug socket?

 

2 days. A week. Two weeks.
Depends on the complexity of the request.
When there is stuff in the request that I have never done before, I have to run tests on my own car to see if it works.

 

Oh! I thought you were just wanting the idle/cruise rich map.
You just want an OE-style calibration with the different injector setup?

 

Hey MM, I am still having the minor idle jump between 750-1k. If you sent me my v1_0 map and set my rpm at 850 would it stop the idle jump?

 

Usually, a "jump" is a bad neutral or clutch switch.

 

Bad neutral? What's the typical diagnosis for that? Learning as I go.

 

if the neutral or clutch switch goes the idle will hunt at ~800 to ~1200 rpm.

if you push in the clutch and it goes away it is the tranny switch. if not it is the switch on the clutch bracket.

beers