metal with slightly smaller gap then the OEM one.

 

Smaller?!? The OE screen is really fine as it is.
Typical window screen is best.

 

Yea, I was gonna start over but on the other thread, you told me to stay with this one and you will make adjustment on it...

 

But you changed a major part.
Gotta start over.
Adding a screen is like adding a turbo.

 

****, I'm going to add me 3 more screens!

 

That's why I am waiting on my turbo upgrade before I start playing with the AP again... Not worth mine or Jeff's headaches...

 

The turbo upgrade won't change anything.

I was being facetious. The change to the MAF when you add a screen is so massive, its like completely changing the airflow through the motor (as far as the PCM is concerned).
The turbo upgrade just makes the motor ask for more air.
If the MAF is setup correctly, the PCM will just make changes on its own.

 

Your base maps are including the 2 original screens the car brings or without screens?

 

My calibrations assume that the intake and MAF are functioning correctly, by whatever means.
For some, that requires an entire re-design of their intake plumbing.
For others, just a 3.375" straight pipe does the trick.
Some need screens, some do not.

All that matters to me is that the MAF is properly calibrated.
I can tell from the very first feedback I get from someone that has installed their AccessPORT whether or not their intake is properly set up.

 

So the 3.375 is ID, not OD... OD is 3.5 in the Vibrant brand, correct?

I'm trying to get everything I need before I start playing with it again. I have a 3.5 ID already, the 3.5 OD also. I have both original screens as well. Any other suggestions before I start playing with all of this? (yeah, I know, I should connect my LM-01 for datalogging, but it's got a lot of connections and I don't feel like doing all those...)

 

Well, i did mentioned that i added the screen and request for V3 series map with dwell adjusted to start fresh on the other thread...
so... anyway, I'll try to find the best matched map tonight and you can change the dwell setting on that one.

 

3 more is not enough
we need at least 6~!

 

I'm doing 7. eat my dust!

 

yes, you need ID as close to 3.375 as possible. and remeber to add at least one screen~! leaern from my mistake, hehe

 

btw, I didn't notice much change going from no screen to screen. the afrs are consistent both ways. Maybe the maf tubing / intake setup that I have channels the air smoothly enough.

 

Changed your idle, though.

 

yea that's possible, becuase mine doesnt go all the way down bellow the impact bar.

 

Hey MM,
can you like just send me the V3 and V5 series with MS dwell setting?

 

My car is a great example of what the screens do. At first I had no screens. My car would start and then die with the v3_0 calibration. Next, I added a nylon mesh window screen before and after the maf. This caused my car to really hunt for the proper AFR. Then I added a metal mesh screen before and after the maf. The car would run and idle correctly but under decel it would die. Tonight I am going to try a screen before and after the MAF and one at the turbo inlet.

I reset the ECU between each change. With no screens there were no fuel trims because the car would just die. With the nylon screens the fuel trims were negative because the screens were restricting the airflow. With the 2 metal screens the fuel trims were positive.

 

I still have to make them.
I'll try to get a set to you tonight if I can.

 

I had erratic idle problem and a little rich in boost without the screen.

 

can you make them right now? Just kidding

thanks Jeff

 

I still havn't gone into boost. Well, not on purpose at least. I did see a + on the boost controller once.

 

I bet you it will run in boost better than it does at low throttle.

 

When you can, send me a set with DWELL fix *AND* temp 175~185 instead of 190~200.

Thanks.