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Adaptronics stand alone rx8 ecu

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Old 04-24-2019, 02:57 PM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by Fickert
So it is required or recommended to add the module if I want to install a wideband w/ a gauge?
Innovate motorsports MTX-L gauge would be the cheapest solution (not the best) - I sell a CAN gauge that interfaces with the ECU that shows multiple parameters including lambda - https://www.tunedbyshawn.com/collect...onic-can-gauge that paired with the stock O2 would be the next cheapest option. Lastly you can purchase the lambda module - https://www.tunedbyshawn.com/collect...ernal-wideband + the CAN gauge which is the most expensive option.

Cheers,

Shawn Christenson
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Old 04-25-2019, 10:42 AM
  #202  
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
So when is an Adaptronic PnP ecu not really a PnP ecu? When you plug a wideband O2 module into it, that’s when



Seems like Adaptronic could at least provide some more info about what that really means and requires to make happen rather than assume everyone is a wiring expert, i.e. cutting and replacing pins; like you know exactly what that means, have the appropriate tools, etc.

It might not be a big deal except if you’ve never done it before and aren’t given any explanation about what’s involved to make it happen. Not a gripe or complaint, just need more info.


.
That is why you buy from me! I pre crimp the pins on the wiring prior to shipping out the lambda Module - Also if you read the description on my product page it gives full detail on to install the pins into the harness - https://www.tunedbyshawn.com/collect...ernal-wideband

Buy with confidence at www.tunedbyshawn.com

Cheers!

Shawn Christenson
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Old 04-25-2019, 11:02 AM
  #203  
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
So when is an Adaptronic PnP ecu not really a PnP ecu? When you plug a wideband O2 module into it, that’s when



Seems like Adaptronic could at least provide some more info about what that really means and requires to make happen rather than assume everyone is a wiring expert, i.e. cutting and replacing pins; like you know exactly what that means, have the appropriate tools, etc.

It might not be a big deal except if you’ve never done it before and aren’t given any explanation about what’s involved to make it happen. Not a gripe or complaint, just need more info.


.
I mean crimping pins on the end of wires isn't too difficult. Finding the pins is no problem. Buying the correct crimp tool for the pins is the hard part. Just looked up the crimp tool specific to these and that alone is 3k

That being said there are a lot of versatile crimp tools that can work with many pins.

Team, for ease of putting everything in one post:

Crimp Pins for ECU connector: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/31...e-connectivity

Crimp Pins require 20-22 AWG wire (Insulator dia 1.4-1.7mm)

Crimp Tool (Specific to this crimp pin) https://www.arrow.com/en/products/14...e-connectivity

Reference video to show how to crimp wires:

I haven't received my pins yet but I have access to some very nice crimp tools, will try those first to see how they go. I am sure there are some cheapo ones that crimp close enough, just a lot of purchasing and trial/error.

Originally Posted by Tuned By Shawn
That is why you buy from me! I pre crimp the pins on the wiring prior to shipping out the lambda Module - Also if you read the description on my product page it gives full detail on to install the pins into the harness - https://www.tunedbyshawn.com/collect...ernal-wideband

Buy with confidence at www.tunedbyshawn.com

Cheers!

Shawn Christenson
Shawn mind me asking which tool you use? Don't have to post here you can PM me. Won't spill any beans, just to help myself if you don't mind
Old 04-25-2019, 11:05 AM
  #204  
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
So when is an Adaptronic PnP ecu not really a PnP ecu? When you plug a wideband O2 module into it, that’s when
You must have miss read... You can run the OEM wideband sensor - but it is recommend to run an aftermarket or the internal lambda module with a 6 wire bosch 4.9 sensor that is more accurate/speed/heater controls than the OEM sensor...

Cheers,

Shawn Christenson
Old 04-25-2019, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Tuned By Shawn
Innovate motorsports MTX-L gauge would be the cheapest solution (not the best) - I sell a CAN gauge that interfaces with the ECU that shows multiple parameters including lambda - https://www.tunedbyshawn.com/collect...onic-can-gauge that paired with the stock O2 would be the next cheapest option. Lastly you can purchase the lambda module - https://www.tunedbyshawn.com/collect...ernal-wideband + the CAN gauge which is the most expensive option.

Cheers,

Shawn Christenson
Tuned By Shawn
Yeah I was filled in a bit more after I asked this question from the seller of my adaptronic. He had his REW swap tuned by you and has nothing but praise for you. Unfortunately I won't have my REW built and in my car for a little while yet. In the mean time, I am looking to do some fuel and gauge upgrades while my renny is still running.

But I may have to get the AEM X - Series Wideband with the harness from you soon. Just gotta sell some old gauges and a Cobb.
Old 04-25-2019, 11:20 AM
  #206  
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Originally Posted by Fickert
Yeah I was filled in a bit more after I asked this question from the seller of my adaptronic. He had his REW swap tuned by you and has nothing but praise for you. Unfortunately I won't have my REW built and in my car for a little while yet. In the mean time, I am looking to do some fuel and gauge upgrades while my renny is still running.

But I may have to get the AEM X - Series Wideband with the harness from you soon. Just gotta sell some old gauges and a Cobb.
Something worth mentioning about the AEM right now - when its in its heat cycle it reads 99 on the AFR which trips the engine saftey since its limit is 29.4 - I am working with adaptronic to get this resolved but it could be a couple weeks before its resolved.

What issue this causes is the car will hit engine safety until the heater finishes its cycle so you have to wait for the heater before driving off.
Old 04-25-2019, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Fickert
I mean crimping pins on the end of wires isn't too difficult. Finding the pins is no problem. Buying the correct crimp tool for the pins is the hard part. Just looked up the crimp tool specific to these and that alone is 3k

That being said there are a lot of versatile crimp tools that can work with many pins.

Team, for ease of putting everything in one post:

Crimp Pins for ECU connector: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/31...e-connectivity

Crimp Pins require 20-22 AWG wire (Insulator dia 1.4-1.7mm)

Crimp Tool (Specific to this crimp pin) https://www.arrow.com/en/products/14...e-connectivity

Reference video to show how to crimp wires: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNnzV1hkRXI

I haven't received my pins yet but I have access to some very nice crimp tools, will try those first to see how they go. I am sure there are some cheapo ones that crimp close enough, just a lot of purchasing and trial/error.



Shawn mind me asking which tool you use? Don't have to post here you can PM me. Won't spill any beans, just to help myself if you don't mind
This is the crimper I use -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1RFZZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1RFZZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- it works very well but you do need to crimp slowly and make sure that everything is lined up correctly - The Rx8 pins are very small and its pretty easy to crimp it too wide but then I will just take a flat pliers to tweek the pin so it fits properly.

It wont make a square crimp like the OEM does with the pins but it works very well for an enthusiast

Cheers,

Shawn Christenson
Old 04-25-2019, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Tuned By Shawn
Something worth mentioning about the AEM right now - when its in its heat cycle it reads 99 on the AFR which trips the engine saftey since its limit is 29.4 - I am working with adaptronic to get this resolved but it could be a couple weeks before its resolved.

What issue this causes is the car will hit engine safety until the heater finishes its cycle so you have to wait for the heater before driving off.
Ah thats a shame please post here when it gets sorted. I prefer the AEM over the Innovate for the time being as it has the self calibration. But if the heat cycle issue is big then thats not something I want to deal with.
Old 04-25-2019, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Tuned By Shawn
This is the crimper I use - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - it works very well but you do need to crimp slowly and make sure that everything is lined up correctly - The Rx8 pins are very small and its pretty easy to crimp it too wide but then I will just take a flat pliers to tweek the pin so it fits properly.

It wont make a square crimp like the OEM does with the pins but it works very well for an enthusiast

Cheers,

Shawn Christenson
Badass thanks Shawn. usually tweaking them with pliers afterwards is what I do XD good to know I am not the only one.
Old 04-25-2019, 12:05 PM
  #210  
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
I want to run a wideband O2, the only thing I don’t understand is what’s involved with swapping out the module pins and what I do understand is that no explanation or additional information was being provided about how you go about doing that to the module.

I was only joking about the PnP thing.


.

You make me scratch my head... Here is the product listing on my site with its description -
https://www.tunedbyshawn.com/collect...ernal-wideband

PREVIOUS

ADAPTRONIC LAMBDA MODULE (INTERNAL WIDEBAND)

$240.00
WHAT ECU ARE YOU PURCHASING THIS MODULE FOR?* -- Choose What ECU are you purchasing this Module for? --M2000, M6000eMod011, eMod010, eMod016, eMod019eMod003, eMod004, eMod005eMod013eMod012eMod009eMod006QTYADD TO CART

CUSTOMER REVIEWS

No reviews yetWrite a review





This Board Enables an Adaptronic Modular ECU (except the M1200) to control a single LSU 4.9 sensor directly by wiring the supplied harness into the ECU connectors. If you need to control more than one LSU 4.9 sensor you may add more wideband O2 modules into your Adaptronic Modular ECU provided that there are more small expansion ports available.

Installation instructions:

1. To install the board into the ECU you will first need to unplug the ECU from the vehicle and open the ECU up to have access to the small expansion slots. Opening the ECU up basically involves removing the onboard MAP sensor nuts. Using a flat head screw driver gently release the plastic tabs on the end-plate to release it. Then slide the vehicle board out of the plastic enclosure.

2. locate an available small module expansion slot and carefully insert the on-board wideband o2 controller module. The module has to be inserted in a specific way so that it lines up with the white outline printed on the main board. It also doesnt matter which small expansion port you choose as the ECU will automatically detect and tell the tuning software which pins on the ECU connector you are supposed to wire to. Which can be visually seen via the wiring guide under the HOME tab in Eugene.

3. Once the Module is set in place slide the main ECU board back into the enclosure and carefully reseal the ecu suing the end-plate and on-board MAP sensor nuts. Adaptronic recommends that once the ecu is back together to upgrade the ECU's firmware to ensure all modules are the same. The instructions for this are located under the FAQ section on this website.

4. After updating the firmware verify if the ECU detects the new module by going to the tuning software's ECU hardware settings menu then click on "Modules". There should be at least one small module address that shows "Lambda Module is connected.

5. With the ECU still connected access the tuning software's pinout page - Home - Wiring guide (or click F8) - and locate the 6 pins required for the sensor harness connection:

1. Pump cell negative - red wire

2. Pump cell positive - yellow wire

3. Heater negative - white wire

4. Heater positive - grey wire

5. Calibration resistor - green wire

6. Reference cell - black wire



If you are using an M2000 or M6000 ECU you can just insert the pins on the harness provided into the AMP superseal connectors. If you are using a Plug N Play ECU you will have to cut the superseal pins and replace them with the OEM ECU pins. (Tuned By Shawn can source/crimp them on for you)

6. After wiring up the sensor harness you may now connect the provided LSU 4.9 sensor and proceed with the softeare settings required. Note that the wideband 02 sensor is generally recommend to be installed about 23.5" away from the exhaust collector or turbocharger.

7. In the tuning software, go to inputs tab - O2 / Lambda sensors - O2 sensor 1 and set the connection type to "Internal Lambda" - now you are ready to tune!

Note there is no free-air calibration required because the internal calibration resistor is used for reference.
Old 04-25-2019, 12:23 PM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by Tuned By Shawn
You make me scratch my head... Here is the product listing on my site with its description -
https://www.tunedbyshawn.com/collect...ernal-wideband

PREVIOUS

ADAPTRONIC LAMBDA MODULE (INTERNAL WIDEBAND)

$240.00
WHAT ECU ARE YOU PURCHASING THIS MODULE FOR?* -- Choose What ECU are you purchasing this Module for? --M2000, M6000eMod011, eMod010, eMod016, eMod019eMod003, eMod004, eMod005eMod013eMod012eMod009eMod006QTYADD TO CART

CUSTOMER REVIEWS

No reviews yetWrite a review





This Board Enables an Adaptronic Modular ECU (except the M1200) to control a single LSU 4.9 sensor directly by wiring the supplied harness into the ECU connectors. If you need to control more than one LSU 4.9 sensor you may add more wideband O2 modules into your Adaptronic Modular ECU provided that there are more small expansion ports available.

Installation instructions:

1. To install the board into the ECU you will first need to unplug the ECU from the vehicle and open the ECU up to have access to the small expansion slots. Opening the ECU up basically involves removing the onboard MAP sensor nuts. Using a flat head screw driver gently release the plastic tabs on the end-plate to release it. Then slide the vehicle board out of the plastic enclosure.

2. locate an available small module expansion slot and carefully insert the on-board wideband o2 controller module. The module has to be inserted in a specific way so that it lines up with the white outline printed on the main board. It also doesnt matter which small expansion port you choose as the ECU will automatically detect and tell the tuning software which pins on the ECU connector you are supposed to wire to. Which can be visually seen via the wiring guide under the HOME tab in Eugene.

3. Once the Module is set in place slide the main ECU board back into the enclosure and carefully reseal the ecu suing the end-plate and on-board MAP sensor nuts. Adaptronic recommends that once the ecu is back together to upgrade the ECU's firmware to ensure all modules are the same. The instructions for this are located under the FAQ section on this website.

4. After updating the firmware verify if the ECU detects the new module by going to the tuning software's ECU hardware settings menu then click on "Modules". There should be at least one small module address that shows "Lambda Module is connected.

5. With the ECU still connected access the tuning software's pinout page - Home - Wiring guide (or click F8) - and locate the 6 pins required for the sensor harness connection:

1. Pump cell negative - red wire

2. Pump cell positive - yellow wire

3. Heater negative - white wire

4. Heater positive - grey wire

5. Calibration resistor - green wire

6. Reference cell - black wire



If you are using an M2000 or M6000 ECU you can just insert the pins on the harness provided into the AMP superseal connectors. If you are using a Plug N Play ECU you will have to cut the superseal pins and replace them with the OEM ECU pins. (Tuned By Shawn can source/crimp them on for you)

6. After wiring up the sensor harness you may now connect the provided LSU 4.9 sensor and proceed with the softeare settings required. Note that the wideband 02 sensor is generally recommend to be installed about 23.5" away from the exhaust collector or turbocharger.

7. In the tuning software, go to inputs tab - O2 / Lambda sensors - O2 sensor 1 and set the connection type to "Internal Lambda" - now you are ready to tune!

Note there is no free-air calibration required because the internal calibration resistor is used for reference.
Shawn,

Correct me if I am wrong ball you need is a wideband kit, and your serial cable right? It plugs into the 4 pin ports in the adaptronic? Then just wire the wideband normally to the gauge?


Old 04-25-2019, 12:39 PM
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Those are the Serial communications for serial devices like the AEM/innovate widebands - if you read the product descriptions on each of those two products its explained.

There is multiple ways to integrate widebands into the adaptronic modular ecus

Internal Lambda Module
Serial Communication
CAN
Analog

CAN & internal Lambda Module have by far the fastest response times - brands that make CAN widebands are generally expensive - Innovate was going to release a CAN wideband but then they got bought by Autometer and iv not heard much on the develop of it.
Serial is slightly slower
Analog is about as fast as serial but you have to deal with ground offsets which make the proper installation difficult

Internal lambda Module you pin the sensor directly into the ECU via the same header that controls the engine. That is why I provide an extra service for my customers to make the installation of the module as easy as possible for the plug n play ECU's

Cheers,

Shawn Christenson


Last edited by Tuned By Shawn; 04-25-2019 at 12:41 PM.
Old 04-25-2019, 12:42 PM
  #213  
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Originally Posted by Tuned By Shawn
Those are the Serial communications for serial devices like the AEM/innovate widebands - if you read the product descriptions on each of those two products its explained.

There is multiple ways to integrate widebands into the adaptronic modular ecus

Internal Lambda Module
Serial Communication
CAN
Analog

CAN & internal Lambda Module have by far the fastest response times - brands that make CAN widebands are generally expensive - Innovate was going to release a CAN wideband but then they got bought by Autometer and iv not heard much on the develop of it.
Serial is slightly slower
Analog is about as fast as serial but you have to deal with ground offsets which make the proper installation difficult

Internal lambda Module you pin the sensor directly into the ECU via the same header that controls the engine. That is why I provide an extra service for my customers to make the installation of the module as easy as possible for the plug n play ECU's

Cheers,

Shawn Christenson


Cheers,

Shawn Christenson
Is there a general "practice" of known serial delay vs can delay vs direct? Isn't that just a value you can assume (15ms for example) when tuning to assume lambda values 15ms sooner than logged?

Regards,
Dustin

Edit: Stupid question, of course it will be faster the ecu can read and compensate.

Last edited by Fickert; 04-25-2019 at 12:46 PM.
Old 04-25-2019, 12:49 PM
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Serial is about a 200ms delay roughly for an accurate representation of the lambda in the engine - and this really only comes into a factor for transient throttle and lambda protection speed.
Old 04-25-2019, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
yeah, I get all that, but at the bottom of #5 on that list it states what I had already posted earlier:



is that a correct statement and if so my query is about what’s required to modify the module; cutting the superseal pins and installing OE pins in their place? I’m a fairly competent person, or occasionally maybe, but without any further explanation, diagrams, video, etc. I’m not really sure how easy it is, what tools are involved, the actual procedure required, and so on.

Apparently pulling some teeth is required to find out , but I’m otherwise stumbling around in the dark here.
I did say and it is listed on the site that I provide and crimp the pins on the lambda sensor for individuals who purchase through my site.... still not sure why you are not understanding that.
Old 04-25-2019, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
Because my module is not coming from you. It’s coming with my ecu from Elliot at Turblown, which I was one of the original purchasers but opted to wait for the ecu and modules to be fully developed. Never imagined it’d be this long, but my personal health situation and all made in moot.

And my original comment was directed at Adaptronic and not you either. This is a generic Adaptronic ecu thread. I appreciate and respect your work and info posted here, but it’s not really all just about Tuned By Shawn either. Some people are going to do it on their own, which Adaptronic is supposedly geared towards those people. If you don’t want to share it otherwise that’s fine too. I just started asking the question in this general information thread area. At some point I’ll have the answer and post it up for that purpose.

Thank you.
Team Please rephrase your actual question? Do you want the Wideband DIRECT (Canbus) to the Adaptronic, or just Serial connection (200ms~ delay)?

If you want to do a direct connection from the wideband TO the adaptronic you need the module from adaptronic. The MODULE is a simple plug and play onto the ECU.

Next, you have to find the available pins for the wideband via adaptronics pinout diagram HERE and reference the wires to use in this photo.


And then you're done wiring. Just need to enable the wideband module in Euegene. This documented HERE (actually the whole process is documented on this site pretty well spelled out.)

There is going to be some crimping of pins and wire sorting I am sure as they made it a PNP for the stock RX8 harness.

Last edited by Fickert; 04-25-2019 at 01:56 PM.
Old 04-25-2019, 01:52 PM
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If you want to do a Wideband AND add a gauge I would just take the easy way out and use Serial connection. And to do that just buy a Wideband kit WITH the serial connection harness from Shawn and plug and go.

All in all you have two options. The more tedious way with the adaptronic module, or just using a wideband kit with Shawns serial harness. I will likely be chosing the wideband with Shawns harness to save the frustration, and cost.

Shawn correct me if I am wrong please.

Last edited by Fickert; 04-25-2019 at 02:02 PM.
Old 04-25-2019, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Fickert
If you want to do a Wideband AND add a gauge I would just take the easy way out and use Serial connection. And to do that just buy a Wideband kit WITH the serial connection harness from Shawn and plug and go.

All in all you have two options. The more tedious way with the adaptronic module, or just using a wideband kit with Shawns serial harness. I will likely be chosing the wideband with Shawns harness to save the frustration, and cost.

Shawn correct me if I am wrong please.
So its kinda a horse apiece...

If you only did the lambda module no gauge the install is really simple - remove the oem sensor - install the 4.9 sensor, and push the pins into the engine harness connectors

If you wanted a gauge with the lambda module you do have to purchase a CAN gauge which is 4 wires - 2 of which plug right into the engine harness connectors and the power gets connected to a pin you remove from the ecu which is defined on my Rx8 Guide page on my website. The ground is best to be routed to an OEM ground point which there is one right next to ECU enclosure. (can gauge comes with a 10' cord) These gauges also show more than just lambda.... fuel pressure, coolant temp, air temp, or if you add extra sensors like oil pressure/temp, ethanol content ect..

For the Innovate / aem install its highly recommend to use the serial connection which does involve some work because innovate only sells 4' cables and we need around 8-10' in order for it to reach. so you either have to combine 2 cables to make 1 long one with either a connector kit or soldering or find the molex connector kit which the pins are extremely small and hard to work with. Once this is extended it simply plugs into the front of the ecu. You do also need to provide power and ground to the gauge which finding the power / ground under the dash is significantly more difficult than using the power pin from the engine harness and the OEM ground point that is by the ecu enclosure.
Old 04-25-2019, 06:10 PM
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Ok well sorry, because maybe I’m confusing different situations that you’re proposing to others. I intend to CAN connect an AiM dash display to the ecu/chassis and also use the Innovate wideband O2 setup direct to the ECU rather than the OE sensor.
Old 04-26-2019, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Tuned By Shawn
So its kinda a horse apiece...

If you only did the lambda module no gauge the install is really simple - remove the oem sensor - install the 4.9 sensor, and push the pins into the engine harness connectors

If you wanted a gauge with the lambda module you do have to purchase a CAN gauge which is 4 wires - 2 of which plug right into the engine harness connectors and the power gets connected to a pin you remove from the ecu which is defined on my Rx8 Guide page on my website. The ground is best to be routed to an OEM ground point which there is one right next to ECU enclosure. (can gauge comes with a 10' cord) These gauges also show more than just lambda.... fuel pressure, coolant temp, air temp, or if you add extra sensors like oil pressure/temp, ethanol content ect..

For the Innovate / aem install its highly recommend to use the serial connection which does involve some work because innovate only sells 4' cables and we need around 8-10' in order for it to reach. so you either have to combine 2 cables to make 1 long one with either a connector kit or soldering or find the molex connector kit which the pins are extremely small and hard to work with. Once this is extended it simply plugs into the front of the ecu. You do also need to provide power and ground to the gauge which finding the power / ground under the dash is significantly more difficult than using the power pin from the engine harness and the OEM ground point that is by the ecu enclosure.
That answers I think questions I had as well as Teams.

Does your serial cable you sell the correct length to wire in or do we still need to lengthen that?
Old 04-26-2019, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Fickert
That answers I think questions I had as well as Teams.

Does your serial cable you sell the correct length to wire in or do we still need to lengthen that?
You would need to purchase 2 cables - 2 four pin duetch connectors - some spare 20g wire to extend the leads long enough to get from the drivers side column to the ECU box.
Old 04-26-2019, 09:16 AM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by Tuned By Shawn
You would need to purchase 2 cables - 2 four pin duetch connectors - some spare 20g wire to extend the leads long enough to get from the drivers side column to the ECU box.
Okay, I would rather just build my own harness for it then. Cut to length and crimp vs splice and solder since I know how to. Do you know the connector and pin part numbers?

Thanks Shawn.
Old 04-26-2019, 11:47 PM
  #223  
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Originally Posted by Tuned By Shawn
That is why you buy from me! I pre crimp the pins on the wiring prior to shipping out the lambda Module - Also if you read the description on my product page it gives full detail on to install the pins into the harness - https://www.tunedbyshawn.com/collect...ernal-wideband

Buy with confidence at www.tunedbyshawn.com

Cheers!

Shawn Christenson
Shawn - do you have the RX8 ECUs in stock?
Old 04-27-2019, 09:46 AM
  #224  
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
better tool price and doesn’t support Amazon’s anti-American policies:

https://www.crimpingtools.com/produc...-crimping-tool





.
LOL... except they want $29 for shipping..
Old 04-27-2019, 10:45 AM
  #225  
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Doh, sorry about that. Can’t get anything right lately.


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