Yeah, I get that. Just trying to see how it translates to a practical application perspective when using multiple Wideband sensors.

 

He’s tuning each rotor separately for AFR, but only using the two outer end port exhaust streams. Your question doesn’t really seem clear to me. It seems like you say you understand, but the question seems to indicate otherwise.

 

Really Team? Don't be a dick. I didn't measure where he placed the bungs. My assumption is he knows well enough as far where to place them to get a good reading from each rotor.

TBT, I'm surprised Andy hasn't built a map based means to individually tune each chamber. If you really want to know what was causing to me to pause, it was the absence of dedicated maps. A linear adjustment / offset will only prove to be so effective. Perhaps the per injector adjustments are more advanced than I'm guessing.

I have zero experience with the new modular ECUs. I wish they were out when I had my 8 as there was only so much you could do with the Select ECU.

 

I think you're right, that an adjustment by itself is not going to keep the AFR exactly linear through the RPM band. But the fuel map controlling all the injectors may be able to take individual injector adjustments into account. To me it seems like the next, practical step in tuning after getting injectors flow tested and matched.

I could totally be off-base here too.

 

It was a sincere and honest answer not intended that way at all.

I’m not stupid and I don’t think you are either; did I not clearly state that “your question is not clear to me”? So why would you jump to that conclusion and then act just as you’re complaining about? Which I’m still not even sure what you’re talking about for the rest of your reply. He already stated where the O2 bungs are placed. Further, even if you could read an O2 signal within precise time frame of each rotor face, unless you can keep the reading perfectly synched with each face and also keep the exhaust pulse of each face from cross mingling with any others then what exactly is the sensor reading and adjusting for?

However, as your opening salvo indicates; people who are emotionally unhinged generally aren’t thinking clearly. I was only attempting to converse with you about the subject.

So let me ask this question; what leads anyone to assume that the exhaust stream exiting the the outboard exhaust port has the same afr as the exhaust stream exiting out the inboard exhaust port that’s feeding into the siamese exhaust stream that isn’t being measured?

Again, a Renesis is unique among combustion engines. I’d suggest that none of this is as simple as applying known general combustion engine theory as most people like to assume it is.

.

 

Why wouldn't it be ? If AFR was the same in each chamber ....wouldn't it be reasonable to assume the siamese will be the same as well ?

 

Excellent question. Maybe you should think everything through that way in all regards rather than make assumptions.

 

Team is back ... Get your put downs here ...get em while they're hot !

Did you have an answer ? ...I was actually asking a question!

 

There’s no put down. If you’re given a fish you can have a meal, but if you learn how to fish you can eat for a lifetime.

Stop making lazy assumptions and put some effort into thinking things through in detail.

 

Unless there's uneven distribution of the fuel mixture within the chamber during the burn, like more unburned fuel to one side of the rotor, I don't see what you gain from measuring the siamese ports too.

 

Exactly 0 to 100 , there is nothing to gain. No-one with will ever bother to check it either , for that very reason.

 

Ok, thanks for clarifying your laziness.


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Okay so on a real note, FINALLY got my new case in soldered up the pressure sensors and now have my car back (for the time being) and decided to plug in the adaptronic. After a set of fouled plugs due to a unplugged vacuum line to the map sensor I have it idling but its farely rough bouncing from 800-1050. You can tell the ignition isn't firing at the right times I think. Also have fuel stabilizer and seafoam in tank from storage. Cannot drive the car yet though so can only idle to drain the tank. But the stock ecu idled just fine.

Anyways this is my first diving into introductory tuning of any vehicle, and curious if there are basic steps or a good forum the the club I can read about? I was playing around with the trigger offset, but nothing beyond 7 degrees in either direction without luck.

Edit: my dumb self wasn't monitoring the AFR's or whatever other important values that I should be looking for, so I cannot provide that information, and if I did the neighbors would hate me starting the car this late.

 

What do they have on the base map for ignition leading and trailing ? Stock it's around -5 leading 10 trailing at idle speed then it gradually swaps over to zero split as rpms climb to 2000.AFR should be 14.7 at idle .

 

Stock base map they have just zero. There was a timing (rotary) option in the drop down that shows the -5 -10 you're talking about. Was afraid to try it. Can check later today and see. It was still rough all the way up to 3k. I stopped there there. Again being precautious.

I need to research and get familiar around the program too. Not sure if there is a timing at idle somewhere I need to get into.

 

Another update: Checked the lamda sensor input, selected the Can<Serial< etc... and used narrowband and is outputing an afr value of 14.1 at idle.

Tried using the (rotary) trigger lock setting still with no success. I am reading on the rx7 forum that adaptronic tends to be heavy on their fuel tables at idle. Is this something I should look to modify? I am not running lean right (14.1 afr should be rich?)

Thanks!
Dustin

 

Yeah 14.1 is fine . Rotaries run better rich at idle anyway so you are on the right side of it .

 

So the more I study this ecu the more I love it. Getting away from all the OEM strategies is going to be great. Planning to run pre-mix only, but the rules don’t allow me to remove the OMP system or modify it. Which I don’t want it injecting engine oil either. Simple solution is to leave it unplugged from the wiring harness since it’s no longer tied into a default limp mode parameter. Kind of has me rethinking all the sensors and strategies ...

 

Great ! Do you have the engine running yet ? Might be keen to jump on this myself at some point if it runs as well as stock around town.

 

You can always pay for 1 hour of my time and I can get your basemap dialed in and ready to be tuned - Note I charge $275.00 for a full power tune on a NA rx8

 

I would have thought that the stock base map, at an absolute minimum, should be good enough to allow a stock rx8 to idle well and drive around town without issue???

 

It did for my car but personally I setup the basemaps completely different than Adaptronics and who knows there could be something else going on but I wouldnt be able to tell unless remoted in checking everything.

 

No, I’m still working out a lot of custom fabrication on my car. Might be another 6 - 8 weeks, but possibly less. Keep running into a lot of small delays/unexpected challenges to work through. So it’s hard to put a timeframe on it.

 

This was my thought as well. Not sure exactly what is going on for sure to be honest. I want to make sure I don't have any underlying issues with vacuum or anything else before hand. Just very odd that it ran perfectly fine with the stock ecu so I am still confused.

Still need to also get more familiar with Eugene before I claim the basemap is a miss.

 

FYI just watched this video and hopefully gave me a few keys to check out. In the sheet with the ecu there was no mention of calibrating the peddle voltage. Wondering if that is an issue or not. As well I am not sure why the base map came with the timing lock off instead of set to the rotary function. May set it to rotary and forget it. Also there is the option to open, closed or auto fuel table calculations, I may play around with this as well to see what happens if the pedal calibration doesn't do anything. Hopefully it is something small to at least get a normal idle and throttle back.