Just get a cable kit and make your own.
I have a Carol 8.5mm V8 kit that I bought for $60 bucks. Made two complete sets.

 

http://www.ptuning.com/html/Item-Des...delDesc=RX%2D8

 

I have the Racing Beat plug wires. Very thick, quality wires.

 

So I'm talking way above my head here but I'll give it a shot (be gentle with the flames)

So what it sounds like your saying is that the higher gauge (18ga) wiring harness could be directly impacting the efficiency of the coils? Would or could this not also impact the coils life span?

It sounds like putting money down towards a better wiring harness (14ga) would be money well spent?

That's all I got.... flame on

 

^^ You are correct. This is my feeling on it, anyway.
Better wire and a more robust power source and ground should not only increase the quality of the spark, but it should reduce the load on the coil and increase its life.

You are flame-proof on that one!

 

Does anyone have an anmeter that can check how many amps the coils are currently taking in 12+ supply?

18ga. is listed as capable of carrying 2.3 Amps. Anyone know how close we are to that limit?

That and does anyone have the electrical section of the manual that includes the Coil interface?

 

You would have an interesting time trying to get at them inside the potted epoxy of the coil.

 

I installed new coils plugs and the HKS DLII yesterday. I had 16K miles on the plugs..they looked slightly worn...but well within what I call normal for that mileage.

Before the swap I had an intermittant miss when revving from 4-6K. The coils all checked out normal on the tests...

The new coils have a revised part # on the coils...otherwise they look the same as the old ones

The hesitation is gone now..it rev's very smooth with no hesitation. I haven't driven it enough to notice much else...the idle is still rough...but the new motor mounts are still backordered ( 2mos).

I'll report back after a week or so.....

 

the motor mounts will set you free.. the change was amazing.. odd. i have 65 k miles on my coils.. they work fine..

but not stop and go driving for me..

beers

 

If I were to design a new coil, I wouldn't use an integral ignitor at all.
I'd use a capacitive box and a standard coil.

BTW - Charles, my inbox is clear.

 

you have 16K on your plugs .... mine has no more than 15 K and it looks like this ... I took them out yesterday, put some new ones in ...



What do you think ?

 

Bit carboned up......but electrodes look OK...typical running rich look to them.

They should be paler and much less deposits with a better mixture

 

^^ It look alot worst in person.

Im gonna take my plugs out in 10K miles, just to see what it looks like.

 

Me to

 

Hey Swoope, how hard is it to change the motor mounts? Any DIYs out there for that swapping them out?

 

Read this

 

did not do it.. but it should not be too hard.. support motor, remove bolts. replace mount..

i am sure mm will chime in on this..

diy link above...

beers

 

^^ Yep.
Use a floor jack to lift the motor, using a big piece of wood under the front of the oil pan so you don't dent/crush it.
The only "trick" is to keep the motor's weight off of the mount while you thread the 14mm bolt that attaches the aluminum part of the mount to the top of the rubber part.
The bolt has a fine thread and the mount boss is also aluminum and can cross-thread fairly easily.
Once everything is threaded, let the motor down and then tighten everything.

 

Thanks MM. PM

 

Got the PM, but I'll respond here for everyone's benefit.

The torque specs are in the FSM, which is on my site.
The driver-side mount is just as easy (and uses the same technique) as the right-side mount.
However, since it is not exposed to the heat of the exhaust manifold, it probably won't need to be replaced.

 

You could do that, but I don't know if there would be much benefit.
It never seemed to me that there was really all that much heat to begin with. Maybe it was just my car?
With the all-steel turbo manifold, I have header wrap which does work rather well.