Smooth As Butter ! New Ignition Coils & Twin Power
#28
Registered
I admit I don't know much, especially regarding ignition amplifiers How does the HKS Twin Power compare with the AEM Twin Power? Comments/criticism appreciated
Here is a DIY of the AEM:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...t=HKS+ignition
The install looks much more complicated for the AEM unit -- due to lack of RX-8 specific harness? The AEM also appears to accept non stock coils such as MSD if needed.
Thanks!
Edgardo
Here is a DIY of the AEM:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...t=HKS+ignition
The install looks much more complicated for the AEM unit -- due to lack of RX-8 specific harness? The AEM also appears to accept non stock coils such as MSD if needed.
Thanks!
Edgardo
#29
no agenda
iTrader: (2)
Awesome thread and what timing!
I have just recently experienced a flashing cel at high rpm's (3 times)
So I went out and bought a OBDII reader to find out what the hell (I'm tired of going to the Dealer)
Well it reported a P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
Did a quick search on P0302 on the forum to see what others had to say, the result was mostly ignition -- a la -- replace plugs or coils
Did a quick search on coils and found myself here!!!
I would just like to say thank you to everyone who has reported this problem and to those that provide valuable feed back.
I'm glad I'm not alone on this.
I'll be lurking and learning
I have just recently experienced a flashing cel at high rpm's (3 times)
So I went out and bought a OBDII reader to find out what the hell (I'm tired of going to the Dealer)
Well it reported a P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
Did a quick search on P0302 on the forum to see what others had to say, the result was mostly ignition -- a la -- replace plugs or coils
Did a quick search on coils and found myself here!!!
I would just like to say thank you to everyone who has reported this problem and to those that provide valuable feed back.
I'm glad I'm not alone on this.
I'll be lurking and learning
#32
Banned
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by mysql101
you'll get engine misfire CEL.
Originally Posted by mysql101
if it's your leading coils, you'll find it hard to drive, it will be jerky. Almost impossible to get moving from a dead stop smoothly. But keep in mind your coil can slowly go bad, getting worse and worse, so it doesn't always happen at once.
If the coil goes completely, it will get very rough, but if it is only beginning to fail, the trailing coil will pick up some of the slack.
Originally Posted by mysql101
If it's the trailing coils, you aren't going to notice till upper rpms.
#33
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
did you replace the coil packs as well?
I changed coil packs, wire, and plugs....MUUUCH better now.
Glad to hear you're car is up and running smoooothly now. Grats man.
I changed coil packs, wire, and plugs....MUUUCH better now.
Glad to hear you're car is up and running smoooothly now. Grats man.
#36
Banned
iTrader: (3)
Well, this is the thing -
The OEM coils have an integral ignitor transistor. You can't shove any more voltage or current down its throat than for what it is rated.
All you can do is hold the coil up to its rated voltage (+12v) and hit it with the rated trigger value (+3.5v).
This is why I'm a bit leery of anything that uses the OEM coils - you can't make them perform any better than what they are rated to do without over saturating them.
Now, there is something to be said about the supply for the coils being less than optimal in its OEM configuration. The 12v supply is shared with several sub-systems and comes through the EGI relay and switching, which will significantly restrict its current handling capability.
Add to that the shared ground and the overall usage of 20ga wire, and I think you have a recipe for a less than happy coil.
I suspect boxes like the Twin-Fire are really just line conditioners.
I'd like to see a bench performance test of the coils with and without such a box as well as a comparative look at what the coils can do in an optimal wiring scenario vs. how they come packaged in the car.
The OEM coils have an integral ignitor transistor. You can't shove any more voltage or current down its throat than for what it is rated.
All you can do is hold the coil up to its rated voltage (+12v) and hit it with the rated trigger value (+3.5v).
This is why I'm a bit leery of anything that uses the OEM coils - you can't make them perform any better than what they are rated to do without over saturating them.
Now, there is something to be said about the supply for the coils being less than optimal in its OEM configuration. The 12v supply is shared with several sub-systems and comes through the EGI relay and switching, which will significantly restrict its current handling capability.
Add to that the shared ground and the overall usage of 20ga wire, and I think you have a recipe for a less than happy coil.
I suspect boxes like the Twin-Fire are really just line conditioners.
I'd like to see a bench performance test of the coils with and without such a box as well as a comparative look at what the coils can do in an optimal wiring scenario vs. how they come packaged in the car.
Last edited by MazdaManiac; 05-25-2007 at 09:51 PM.
#37
The Professor
Intresting.
I was thinking of making my own coil ground harness from one 4 gauge split into 4 ends, shielded and sealed.
For the 12+ supply could I just hook it up to the battery+alt using seperate wiring for each coil and leave it hot with 12+ all the time or does it need to be switched to the ignition?
I was thinking of making my own coil ground harness from one 4 gauge split into 4 ends, shielded and sealed.
For the 12+ supply could I just hook it up to the battery+alt using seperate wiring for each coil and leave it hot with 12+ all the time or does it need to be switched to the ignition?
#48
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
you don't want OE wires, get Magnecore 8.5 or anther aftermarket wire
I found them as cheap as 80 bucks shipped on froogle. Is that right?
Anyone know where I can find the cheapest plugs and coil packs?
Last edited by deamicls; 04-05-2007 at 11:54 AM.