Silent cold air intake upgrade
12-08-2010, 10:08 AM
#28
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This weekend I removed the Vfad, the walls inside the airbox, and dropped in a k&n filter. After all this, if I just drive around normally I don't even notice anything different (maybe a tiny bit more growl to the intake note, which is very good) but when you do WOT runs you can really feel the difference. From what I can tell the only difference when you're pushing it is that from 2k to 4500k rpm there is a VERY nice GROWL coming from the engine, after 5k rpm it sounds slightly different from stock but again, in a good way.
Performance wise, the biggest difference is that you don't get discrepancies in the power. What I mean is that before, when I did WOT runs you could feel the the power came on and then off depending on the rpm. from 1k to 3.5k rpm the power was nice, then it dropped off until 5k where it picked up again. I hated it. Now it just pulls more and more and then some all the way till 9k, where I still get a drop(I suspect my coils are getting crappy).
TOTAL COST of this: 0.20$ for the screw cover I had to buy to cover the Vfad vacuum line and an hour of my time.
If you decide to use the K&N filter (If you live in a sandy area don't buy it) then add about 50 bucks to the cost
Performance wise, the biggest difference is that you don't get discrepancies in the power. What I mean is that before, when I did WOT runs you could feel the the power came on and then off depending on the rpm. from 1k to 3.5k rpm the power was nice, then it dropped off until 5k where it picked up again. I hated it. Now it just pulls more and more and then some all the way till 9k, where I still get a drop(I suspect my coils are getting crappy).
TOTAL COST of this: 0.20$ for the screw cover I had to buy to cover the Vfad vacuum line and an hour of my time.
If you decide to use the K&N filter (If you live in a sandy area don't buy it) then add about 50 bucks to the cost
12-13-2010, 12:41 PM
#29
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I Have noticed the same exact thing. what screw cover did you have to buy? was this difficult at all? I'm new to RX8 but wrenched a bit on my WRX and saab 9-3 turbo quite a bit before I bought this RX8
This weekend I removed the Vfad, the walls inside the airbox, and dropped in a k&n filter. After all this, if I just drive around normally I don't even notice anything different (maybe a tiny bit more growl to the intake note, which is very good) but when you do WOT runs you can really feel the difference. From what I can tell the only difference when you're pushing it is that from 2k to 4500k rpm there is a VERY nice GROWL coming from the engine, after 5k rpm it sounds slightly different from stock but again, in a good way.
Performance wise, the biggest difference is that you don't get discrepancies in the power. What I mean is that before, when I did WOT runs you could feel the the power came on and then off depending on the rpm. from 1k to 3.5k rpm the power was nice, then it dropped off until 5k where it picked up again. I hated it. Now it just pulls more and more and then some all the way till 9k, where I still get a drop(I suspect my coils are getting crappy).
TOTAL COST of this: 0.20$ for the screw cover I had to buy to cover the Vfad vacuum line and an hour of my time.
If you decide to use the K&N filter (If you live in a sandy area don't buy it) then add about 50 bucks to the cost
Performance wise, the biggest difference is that you don't get discrepancies in the power. What I mean is that before, when I did WOT runs you could feel the the power came on and then off depending on the rpm. from 1k to 3.5k rpm the power was nice, then it dropped off until 5k where it picked up again. I hated it. Now it just pulls more and more and then some all the way till 9k, where I still get a drop(I suspect my coils are getting crappy).
TOTAL COST of this: 0.20$ for the screw cover I had to buy to cover the Vfad vacuum line and an hour of my time.
If you decide to use the K&N filter (If you live in a sandy area don't buy it) then add about 50 bucks to the cost
12-14-2010, 12:27 PM
#30
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If you have an idea or you have worked on cars before it shouldn't be hard at all. For the intake box wall removal its as hard as changing the air filter. Removing the Vfad is not very hard either. The only tricky and tedious part is getting the front bumper out (there are sooo many screws and connectors you gotta watch out for at the same time) but it should't be too bad.
I still get some inconsistency in power in first gear in the upper rpms, but I suspect the coils are the culprit of this so I ordered myself a set of ls2 coils get that solved.
PS: when I said screw cover I meant one of these: http://imagethumbnails.milo.com/003/...489168_290.jpg
you can find them at ACE
I still get some inconsistency in power in first gear in the upper rpms, but I suspect the coils are the culprit of this so I ordered myself a set of ls2 coils get that solved.
PS: when I said screw cover I meant one of these: http://imagethumbnails.milo.com/003/...489168_290.jpg
you can find them at ACE
12-14-2010, 12:59 PM
#31
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it feels like more power but its not, the VFAD helps maintain power and tourqe over the entire RPM band when you took out the VFAD you made the car weaker on the low end, so when power picks up on the top end it feels like more. same as the people who keep aux ports open
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