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Series I Aftermarket Performance Modifications Discussion of power adding modifications

Flywheel flywheels flywheels.

Old Feb 26, 2007 | 03:12 AM
  #226  
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Quick question, is locktite necessary when replacing the 54mm nut? Must it be "Locktite" brand, or any brand from shucks/autoparts store?

Thanks!

Edgardo
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 09:13 AM
  #227  
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From: In So Cal.. out in BFE... but in the good part... but not really by Cesar, Keith or Loren...
any brand is fine.... and take it easy on the "glue of your choice" it only takes a little.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 12:03 PM
  #228  
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thanks for all ur feedback on this subject. today i just had mine installed (MS). and what u guys said were right, its really worth it. so my advice to ppl contemplating... its thumbs up!

but 1 thing... my mech told me that i should not race the engine until i complete a break in period of at least 300KM... but y? makes no sense... said it was something to do on the chemicals on the new flywheel...
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 12:38 PM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by grinn253
Quick question, is locktite necessary when replacing the 54mm nut? Must it be "Locktite" brand, or any brand from shucks/autoparts store?

Thanks!

Edgardo
erm... what happensif u just replace the nut without anything applied on? will it loosen in time?
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 01:36 PM
  #230  
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From: In So Cal.. out in BFE... but in the good part... but not really by Cesar, Keith or Loren...
no it wont if it was put on correctly.

the factory specs for the torque is something like 350 ft pounds. most paople have a hard time getting it that tight. (a nice air gun with high line pressure should just about do it. )
since I use an "ok" air gun, the locktight is just an insurance policy.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 02:12 PM
  #231  
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Just like brakes.... clutch discs, pressure plates, and flywheel surfaces need to "mate".
if they don't "mate" properly they become f**ked !
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 11:47 AM
  #232  
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Hmm..thinking of getting the MS flywheels..however, I don't think anyone have yet commented on the life cycle of the flywheels & clutch..yes, depends on the driver, but on average:

(1) What is the life cycle of a stock flywheel?
(2) What is the life cycle of a stock clutch?

I would like to upgrade, but want to use both of my stock's life up before investing in the much improved parts....anyone know? Feedbacks?
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 11:50 AM
  #233  
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2) I should have replaced my stock clutch at 30,000 miles, when I did the flywheel swap...it was already worn badly. I just swapped it at about 60,000...I was getting major slippage and wasn't even able to drive up a driveway incline. It was down to the rivets and was starting to groove up the flywheel.

disclaimer: I drive the car 99% freeway during the week, and autocross the car about once or twice a month.
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 03:04 PM
  #234  
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From: Sunny See attle
Originally Posted by icyur2

(1) What is the life cycle of a stock flywheel?
(2) What is the life cycle of a stock clutch?
the stock flywheel is just a steel casting so it will last forever. The stock clutch. Really depends on how you drive it. It sounds like to answer you want is:

When your clutch wears out you should replace both the clutch and flywheel at that time.
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 03:23 PM
  #235  
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From: In So Cal.. out in BFE... but in the good part... but not really by Cesar, Keith or Loren...
Shaunv74, I have a fever, and the only cure is more cow bell.
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 06:50 PM
  #236  
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Thanks for the info Shaun!! In that case, I'll wait till my clutch goes out before doing the swap..hmm..I just bought the MS flywheel ($460!!)..so..which clutch system will work best with this? I saw a video clip on the whole assembly (clutch, disk, flywheel), and it was interesting info. There was 1 disk that had 4 blades, vs. your traditional disk..anybody had that installed with the MS flywheel? Based on the guy, it is made of kevlar(?), and is semi-aggressive..thoughts?
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 06:52 PM
  #237  
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From: Planet Earth
Exclamation

Originally Posted by speeddemon32
no it wont if it was put on correctly.

the factory specs for the torque is something like 350 ft pounds. most paople have a hard time getting it that tight. (a nice air gun with high line pressure should just about do it. )
since I use an "ok" air gun, the locktight is just an insurance policy.
Well I think I want to be *safe* too.

So which one do I need here

http://www.amazon.com/s/104-3831884-...extbin=Loctite

I was thinking of the *Red, High Strength& one. What do you think ?
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 07:06 PM
  #238  
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Originally Posted by icyur2
In that case, I'll wait till my clutch goes out before doing the swap
you will be waiting a long time then - stock clutch can last the life of the car in some circumstances .
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 08:47 PM
  #239  
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From: In So Cal.. out in BFE... but in the good part... but not really by Cesar, Keith or Loren...
sounds good to me.
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 12:10 AM
  #240  
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Originally Posted by speeddemon32
sounds good to me.
Ok, Let me add that to the list of *Parts for Flywheel + Clutch Upgrades* ...

I will tell them to use impact on it but its always better to be safe than sorry .... its not going to be funny if that flywheel just flies out when Im doing 9K rpm shift ....
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 01:49 AM
  #241  
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You serious?? I figured I swap it out @60K..another 50K more to go for me If that is the case though, anybody know the avg. price to have the flywheel install by Mazda?
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 10:21 AM
  #242  
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I would be willing to bet having a dealer do it is going to cost more then finding a good shop.

I am lucky and live right down the road from gotham racing. For 350 dollars I got my new flywheel and clutch installed AND got a new tranny full of Amsoil synthetic.

I'd be willing to bet it would be 450-500 at a dealer.
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 10:25 AM
  #243  
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Originally Posted by toxin440
I would be willing to bet having a dealer do it is going to cost more then finding a good shop.

I am lucky and live right down the road from gotham racing. For 350 dollars I got my new flywheel and clutch installed AND got a new tranny full of Amsoil synthetic.

I'd be willing to bet it would be 450-500 at a dealer.
Psh, i'm gonna have my stuff done by garage next time clutch/flywheel stuff has to be done. hah. D.I.Y. is fun, but it was a pain after having to take out the tranny two diff. days. On jackstands!

-Cody
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 09:47 PM
  #244  
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K...if that is the case, anybody lives near Salem, OR who knows of a good shop that will do the flywheel/clutch install for a decent price?
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 12:49 AM
  #245  
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From: Sunny See attle
Originally Posted by nycgps
Well I think I want to be *safe* too.

So which one do I need here

http://www.amazon.com/s/104-3831884-...extbin=Loctite

I was thinking of the *Red, High Strength& one. What do you think ?

Don't use the Red Loctite. It's designed to be a permanent adhesive. You'll never be able to get it off again. And you don't want that. If you don't have an air wrench Racing Beat sells a tool which is a socket welded onto a 3 foot cheater bar. You can hang on the end of that to tighten it by hand. Call them. They can help you with that. Also you're going to want a way to stop the flywheel from rotating while loosening or tightening it. there are a couple of people that sell a few different tools to stop the rotation of the flywheel. You will also need a flywheel puller to get it off. Racing Beat sells that as well.
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 01:03 AM
  #246  
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From: Sunny See attle
Originally Posted by icyur2
There was 1 disk that had 4 blades, vs. your traditional disk..anybody had that installed with the MS flywheel? Based on the guy, it is made of kevlar(?), and is semi-aggressive..thoughts?
glad to help. I think this is a racing clutch and not really designed for street use. Take a look on some of the forum vendor sites for info. on different clutches. just get a heavy duty street clutch. Some folks like the ACT clutch and pressure plate. Check Racing Beat's website as well. They have a full line of clutches. The racing clutches are typically very stiff and very harsh when engaging. also I suspect they are not designed to last as long as a street clutch. Read up on some of the threads here to see what other people have put in and email some of the forum vendors for their recommendations.
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 01:06 AM
  #247  
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From: Sunny See attle
Originally Posted by speeddemon32
Shaunv74, I have a fever, and the only cure is more cow bell.


You can never have too much.
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 01:07 AM
  #248  
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i would look at the act street and strip.. not the hd extreme one..
or the exedy stage 1.

beers
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 07:17 AM
  #249  
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Originally Posted by shaunv74
Don't use the Red Loctite. It's designed to be a permanent adhesive. You'll never be able to get it off again. And you don't want that. If you don't have an air wrench Racing Beat sells a tool which is a socket welded onto a 3 foot cheater bar. You can hang on the end of that to tighten it by hand. Call them. They can help you with that. Also you're going to want a way to stop the flywheel from rotating while loosening or tightening it. there are a couple of people that sell a few different tools to stop the rotation of the flywheel. You will also need a flywheel puller to get it off. Racing Beat sells that as well.
I've read that the Torque spec is about what, 350 lbs foot on the bolts ? everyshop shop has an impact gun, but not sure if its that Strong.

I want some extra insurance so if the RED stuff is not good, maybe use something thats a bit weaker but still can hold under high stress and heat ?

I think the shop Im going to go has everything they need to take any flywheel off, so I dont worry about the flywheel puller that much.

What do you think ?

Last edited by nycgps; Mar 5, 2007 at 09:05 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 09:03 AM
  #250  
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From: In So Cal.. out in BFE... but in the good part... but not really by Cesar, Keith or Loren...
most likley.
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