I must've Missed it. Sorry

 

^^yup. What Charles R. "god of nitrous" said.

 

NO BIGGY, It belongs in this thread to... its good info to have here.

hey do you have a picture of the wheels in your avatar on your RX-8? they look nice!

 

Whoah!! I got quoted for $380 at a MAZDA dealer for the installation of the MS flywheel!! Whoohoo!!! I'm getting that baby in..heck with waiting for my clutch to go out

On the side note..anybody heard of Spec - Stage 2 clutch? They look pretty good and are "street-able."

 

I posted them in here a few days ago

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=100

but anyway here




I want to take some better picture but my brother took my digi-camera so Im left with my camera phone .... plus the sucky weather ....

Im gathering the parts I need for the flywheel + clutch upgrade, can you tell me if I missed anything ?

Flywheel - Fidanza
Mazda Counterweight - Required
Clutch - ACT , most likely Extreme version, cuz I'll be going FI later
Pliot bearing - a Must right ?
Thrownout bearing - another Must right ?
Front and Rear Tranny Seal - this is a must, I know.
Locitie Blue - So my flywheel wont cut my legs when Im doing 9.5K shifts :P

oh I need the bolts so I can bolt the counterweight onto the Fidanza flywheel, does anybody know the mazda part number for it ? I pmed some people but have yet to receive a reply.

thats pretty much about it, right ?

 

Im gathering the parts I need for the flywheel + clutch upgrade, can you tell me if I missed anything ?

Flywheel - Fidanza
Mazda Counterweight - Required
Clutch - ACT , most likely Extreme version, cuz I'll be going FI later
Pliot bearing - a Must right ? will come with the ACT clutch kit
Thrownout bearing - another Must right ?will come with the ACT clutch kit
you will also get a pressure plate with the ACT clutch kit
Front and Rear Tranny Seal - this is a must, I know. I have never need to replace these.
Locitie Blue - So my flywheel wont cut my legs when Im doing 9.5K shifts :P

oh I need the bolts so I can bolt the counterweight onto the Fidanza flywheel, should come with the counter weight.... but make sure.
does anybody know the mazda part number for it ? I pmed some people but have yet to receive a reply.

thats pretty much about it, right ?

will also need a flywheel remover (although there are ways to do it witout, but I recomend the puller)

you will also need a 54mm (2 1/8) socket to remove the flywheel and put the new one on. if your using an impact you be fine, but if your doing it by hand you will also need a bar to move that big *** nut, and something to stop the flywheel. (it really is easyer with an impact.)

also new tranny fluid

 

yup, don't forget new fluids.....may as well do the diff at the same time.

Some grease to lube the pilot bearing and throwout bearing.

Jack stands.

A whole bunch of socket extensions, including a swivel/elbow connector. (A couple of the transmission bolts are way back in there....I think we had over a foot of extension to reach back there...)

Hydraulic jack or two....unless you have the transmission catcher/cradle attachment.

Wire cutters...as you'll need to cut the wire connectors that are attached to the transmission.

Pilot bearing removal tool....I used a Blind Hole Puller tool, and rented it from Autozone. (we had to remove the inner cage from the pilot bearing first, and then it worked.)

 

^^^ I knew I forgot a few.

(Kwescott and myself have done many flywheel/clutch installs.)

 

You're right! Though it was in this thread too https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=234
Just wanted to say thanks for your response!

Edgardo

 

Well after much searching & reading I was able to complete this ordeal in about a weeks time, though not working on it everyday. Besides the general tools needed, air compressor & impact gun assisted immensly. I also purchased the following for the install (in case this might help someone as well):

$ 50.00 Rosenthal Mazda - Front & Rear Transmission seal, throwout bearing (w/ $10.00 coupon)
$ 30.00 Sears - 2 1/8 inch socket
$ 12.00 Sears - 21mm Deep Socket for PPF
$ 135.00 RacingBeat - Stock Flywheel puller, Stainless steel clutch line, Flywheel Nut Wrench, Flywheel Stopper Bar
$ 50.00 Harbor Freight - higher lifting floor jack & extra light for under car
$ 40.00 Hardwick - Butane torch & pen torch
$ 20.00 Shucks - Clutch alignment kit
$ 9.00 Shucks - PB Blaster & Carb Cleaner
$ 6.00 Lowes - 3 bolts, 3 nuts, 3 lock washers, and 3 locking nuts for catalytic converter
$ 33.00 Action Auto - 2 Quarts RP Max Gear 75W90, Blue Loctite, Engine Assembly Lube
$ 10.00 MazdaTech - 54mm Lock Nut
$ 25.00 Amazon - 54mm socket
$ (forgot) - Transmission jack
Total = $420

I thought i was supposed to save money doing the install myself

Actually I bought some extra tools for 'in case' such as the RB Flywheel Nut Wrench & Stopper Bar. I also didn't end up using the Amazon 54mm socket and used the Craftsman instead as it appeared 'better made'. So without those extra purchases, new total would be: ~ $335

Still not "free" but the sense of accomplishment feels just as good as the lightweight flywheel!

After starting the vehicle, I needed to perform the full left & full right turning of the steering wheel (As battery was disconnect for duration of episode). Question:
There in no CEL, do i need to (is it recommended to) reset the ECU/KAM by the 20 brake pump method?

Thanks!
Edgardo

 

One more thing to add: Clutch alignment tool. You'll need this. The tool for a 93-95 RX-7 will work as well.

 

^^^ yea that to.... which will also come in the ACT kit.

Grinn, there are a couple things on there you did not NEED. but nice job. yeah there are a couple things that suck to buy for ONE TIME JOB. luckly we use my specialty tools a few times doing all the cars in the club.

 

Blah

the more I look at the list of *tools*, the more I think I will *go to the shop*

I asked the local shop that I always *hang around*, the owner lift my car up and talk with 2 techs for maybe 2 minutes, Came back to me and said he can do it for 300 bucks, its about a 3-4 hour job, it requires a transmission stand but he dont have it at his shop today, said if I want to do the swap, call him a day before and he will have everything ready.

I think the price is alright,(for the install) what do you guys think about this deal ? at least I think if I go to a shop, I dont have to get all those flywheel puller/stopper/whatever.

For the clutch : This is my daily driver, I have fairly strong legs and I will 100% go turbo later, which Pressure Plate would be good ? It sounds like Xtreme PP will kill my leg (plus some clutch components). Im really confused about the choice of PP and disc now. Need some advise from you guys.

*another question not related to the flywheel*
Crap I did some search on throw-out bearing(release bearing)

Description: The throw-out bearing, or clutch release bearing as it's sometimes called, is located between the clutch fork and the pressure plate fingers. The throw-out bearing only operates when the clutch pedal is depressed; the bearing is not designed for continuous use.

Purpose: When the driver steps on the clutch pedal, the throw-out bearing applies force to the fingers of the spinning pressure plate to release the clutch. When the clutch pedal is released, the bearing sits idle and does not contact the pressure plate fingers.

Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: The classic symptom of a worn throw-out bearing is a whirring or growling sound when applying the clutch pedal, which goes away when releasing the pedal. Premature wear of the throw-out bearing can occur when there is insufficient clutch play, resulting in a throw-out bearing that spins continuously. If the bearing fails, it may seize and quickly wear the fingers of the pressure plate. The throw-out bearing does not require routine maintenance, but should be replaced when clutch replacement becomes necessary. Consult a professional technician to determine whether the throw-out bearing or other parts of the clutch assembly need replacement.

If what the page said is right, then it *seems* that my throw-out bearing is dying(or going to die), cuz everytime I step on the clutch, theres some *whrrrrrrrrrrrriiiiiing* sound coming from the front ... hmmmm

Is it really going ?
*thx*

 

some simple advice.

as to clutch. a stage one or the act street and strip are more than enough for any na car and most fi cars... unless you plan to be on pinks..

as to a dealer or a local shop... if they do not get the ppf right all is for nothing...

as to the rest. i would not sweat the small stuff... the bearings are most of the time included in the clutch kits.. and also rarely fail...

beers

 

pmed

 

So for this job, does that mean they have to take the rear diff down with the Tranny together ?

sorry for being a noob

I think they should know how to do it .... but just want to be safe

 

Is there any open apartment/house next to yours ?

 

I agree with Swoop.... all except for the bearing part. In the ACT kit you will get everything you need. please for the love of god install the new throw out bearing. I have had them fail on me before (not in the 8 though). it makes no sence to not replace it. it literally takes an extra 45 seconds to install the new throw out bearing. the Pilot bearing on the other hand is a differant story. getting the old one out is a mother F'er. your welcome to leave that one in. just throw a little more grease in there since you have it all apart and call it a day.


although if you wish to replace it anyways (like we do) you can eaither buy yet another specialty tool from Mazdatrix.... or (here is what we do) bust out the iner cage of the pilot bearing (and pull all the needle bearings out) and then once you have nothing left but the outer race of the bearing stuck in the e shaft, use a blind hole puller you can rent for free from Auto Zone to remove the race. and walla you can then install the new one.

I cant tell you how many Pilot bearings we/I have had to chissle out by hand before we figured that one out. and no a normal pilot bearing removal tool does not work. you would need the one from Mazdatrix to get the bearing out with extreame ease. (you would think that with all of the clutch jobs I have done on rotarys I would buy that damn tool. I have all the other ones :/ )

 

^^^ yeah a lot of tools are not needed as long as you have an impact. the impact saves the need for the lonf breaker bar and the flywheel stoper.

as for the flywheel puller, 2 bolts and a hammer do the same thing.... just not as gracefully.

You also dont NEEEEED a pilot bearing removal tool. a chisle and a hammer work... just takes FOREVER!!!...

so no, you dont HAVE to have all of those tools (remembering the good ol days.)

 

HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Very very tempting .................................................. .................

Im still ordering parts so I will let you know.

Thx for the invitation ! :D I want to see your Nitrous setup as well.

 

if I go to the shop, I'll just let them to do all of the *painful* job.

Hey I mean I pay for it right? so they have to *do it right*

and is this good ?
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=02-8101-0000

*still ordering parts ...*

 

if you do it yourself or with someone that teaches you. you know it is done right...

i am lucky to have a dealer with a master tech and lead mech. that like me... the master tech loves the troubleshooting end of the game.. the lead tech that changed my motor is from pr... and has a rotor in a corolla that runs 10s.

and to all. is it SWOOPE. the fking e is not silent... for the love of god.

and most clutch kits i see have the to bearing in the kit..

but as i said the ppf is a big deal..

beers

 

so it's pronounced swoopey ?

 

i know where you live... and i could like be there in 4 or 5 days.. jackass...

btw, scott dixion. irl driver now.. i think i will see him in homestead in a couple of weeks..

beers

 

have not heard much about him lately - how is he going ?