If the timing is out the EGT will be effected.....but it sounds like it just didn't fix a misfire problem he had before the install thinking it was a coil issue????

 

This is the only modification I've done at this time. Car worked fine before, doesn't now. Engine still cranks at same speed, just takes forever to fire up, plus I get a nice gas smell. Plugs are brand new, swapped em out with this install. AFR sticks at 11.2 under boost. As far as misfiring goes the engine stutters under boost BAD, I'm sure if I were just a bit richer I would start to here it firing out of the exhaust. My ground is 1.2 ohms to the negative battery terminal. As for the other stuff, as I stated at the beginning, this is the only thing I've changed. Fuel and air have remained the same.

 

Strange.....I'd swap back to the stock nd see if it goes away...and then send it back to Charles to diagnose...

Don't want to pick..but the wires are all on the right plugs etc....right

 

Auwen, please keep me posted as to the results of switching back to stock.

The key is to double check to ensure the terminal connectors didn't slip out of the boot when you connect them. I would pay special attention to the trailing plugs as well.

Sometimes pulling your plugs can show what's going on. If you're getting a strong gas smell I would suspect there's a large amount of unburnt fuel which would also go along with limited spark.

We've been told that the boot connectors with the spark plugs are tough to get a solid connection.

Feel free to PM me if you'd like!

If it comes down to it, any install pictures to help us troubleshoot the problem would be helpful as well!

 

Sounds like one of the leading plugs isn't firing or the firing order is wrong.

 

I've got a set of good stock coils you can have for the price of shipping if you want them for troubleshooting. I've got 3 good plug wires too. (I cut up the 4th to test the resistance because I didn't have a long enough probe handy... don't ask.)

Remember, the front coil (1) goes to the front rotor leading plug, coil 2 goes to the front trailing plug, 3 rear leading, 4, rear trailing.

The Leading plugs are the lower ones, the upper plugs are the trailing. the engine housing will also be marked with an L or a T next to the plug hole.

 

A pic is sometimes worth a thousand words.

 

These have been symptoms we've seen on a couple of other vehicles. Some tips I can give you would be the following:

1. Make sure and verify that anything you took apart was installed correctly. This includes the intake, any couplers, battery connections etc.
2. If you disconnected your battery during the install, you will need to ensure the system is completly drained of power. This means disconnecting your battery, holding your brake pedal down for 10 seconds and then waiting 2 hours before reconnecting the battery.

If you have any idle issues with a reconnection please remember that the PCM will need to relearn it's fuel trims.

3. Double check all connections and couplers from the MAF on back. We had one customer who didn't tighten down his coupler attached to the throttle body and had some issues.

4. Check to ensure the plug wires are in their proper location and that the terminal didn't slip out of the 90 degree boot.

Also don't forget that Charles R. Hill's personal phone # is included with your receipt and you can always call him with questions about the install.

 

There does seem to be a bit of "weak wrist" going on with some of these installs.
The plug wires need to be really, really on there.
They will "click" when the terminal grabs the plug.
As good as these coils are, if you have more than a mm of gap between the plug terminal and the wire, you will send the spark out of the wire jacket and into something else metallic nearby, like the ABS bracket or the dip stick mounting boss.

 

is it bad that I want a video of that?

 

Funny you should mention that!

VIDEO

That was from back in February when I discovered the importance of good plug wire connections on my prototype for the BHR ignition system.
The spark was jumping through the coil boot on the wire, over to the charge pipe from which it jumped again to the intake pipe!
All because it wasn't seated properly on the plug.

 

WINNN!

 

benjamin franklin ftmfw!

 

just fill up gas today.got 235miles on 14.5 gallon.80% local drive.used to get less than 200....I would say around 30 miles extra per tank same driving style nothing change except the BHR coil.also noticed that the car seems need to take more time to fire up....has anyone with this kit happen the same thing???

another off topic question.
my car has some poping sound once it idle...And little shake too...it got bad day by day after track.....here is some information about my car 28k miles with HKS section intake HKS legalmax catback and AP under drive pully and BHR coil kit.

 

I notice some popping once in a while when I first start the car, though I have OEM coils.

I've noticed my air/fuel will suddenly change when it happens but I've not seen any other side effects.

 

A little dielectric grease on the spark plugs and inside the wire boots might be a good idea to help get the plug wires on all the way.

 

That was one I was surprised with when I connected. They are very, very snug. The easy thing about that though, is that there's an audible snap/click/whatever and you can definitely feel it when you've got them secured.

 

Whoops!

Nice spark jump there.

 

that video rockz. You should have had Easy stick his finger in there

 

I actually made a video a while ago where I pick up an active "bad" OE coil, barefoot with wet hands. Nothing happens.
It was for Moon, but since I'm not allowed to feed the trolls anymore, I guess its sorta moot.

 

you must really trust your meters....

damn, i just thought of a totally unimportant but interesting(to me) use for that Fluke 97 i sold to Team a while back...

 

You crazy .

 

Sometimes knowledge+trust defies what some people consider logic

 

No, I'm not. I knew exactly what the result was going to be.
Moon seemed to think that it was possible for the spark to leak out of the bottom of the coil through the "white spot" that, mystically, indicates a coil failure in his (and that of some other people) mind.
Of course, the coil's secondary windings are on top where the tower is, so the bottom of the case is facing the low voltage side of the coil.

The spark would much rather follow the path of least resistance, which was through the plug wire and the plug to ground.

 

i unplugged a wire from the mazsport coils with my hand and i got electricutedd big time!!! but the funny part is i tried plugging it back in but it didnt occur to me to turn off the car.. i was having a blonde day.. i usually dont make stupid mistaked like that but i got 3 electricutions hahaha

i was like aww my baby almost killed me