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BHR Ignition System: Results/Impressions

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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 09:11 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Flashwing
Oh wow, you're using the HKS Hi-power with the kit as well!?!

I would be curious what kind of MPG numbers you would get without the hi-power kit.
exactly the same? why would the hi-power change anything (besides making the car sound like ***)
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 09:53 AM
  #27  
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Thanks, and yes its really easy to figure out which one is leading, there's a big L and T stamped right next to the plugs.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 11:03 AM
  #28  
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From: Caput Mundi
auwen, where did you connect the grounding to? It may do nothing but since the installation is ok from what you tell this is another thing i would check
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 12:23 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by auwen
Thanks, and yes its really easy to figure out which one is leading, there's a big L and T stamped right next to the plugs.
I'd double check the connectors and make sure the plug wires are seated firmly
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 03:56 PM
  #30  
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First to answer Charles' question no I didn't disconnect the battery. Second I checked the resistance of the ground I used to the negative battery terminal and only got 1.2ohms so I'm pretty sure that's not it either. Also checked tightness of all connectors. I did however screw up the rear rotor wires and got them backwards. That is fixed now. So with the above stated my current situation is now the car will start about 50% of the time. It still however stuttered like crazy under boost on the map I was using ( MM's 1_5a for FI). Looking at the AP the AFR sticks nicely at 11.2 so I don't think fuel is the issue. I switched over to the new baseline tuning map and tried it under boost ( just for troubleshooting purposes). On this map the AFR sits right around 12.4 and the car stutters only slightly but still makes no power under boost. My next course of action is going to have to be to swap back to the stock coils and see if everything goes back to normal just to make sure that its something with the kit setup that's the problem.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 04:19 PM
  #31  
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Did you get the Electrical connections in the correct place? L1,T1,L2,T2. on the wire harness', did they click together? Did you change the spark plugs? Did you get the plug wire boot down on the spark plug fully. Did you hear it click? Try using the ground suggested on the fender by the brake booster.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 07:55 PM
  #32  
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if you ran the rear rotor wires backwards under boost, that is very bad.. it is proven.

beers


Originally Posted by auwen
First to answer Charles' question no I didn't disconnect the battery. Second I checked the resistance of the ground I used to the negative battery terminal and only got 1.2ohms so I'm pretty sure that's not it either. Also checked tightness of all connectors. I did however screw up the rear rotor wires and got them backwards. That is fixed now. So with the above stated my current situation is now the car will start about 50% of the time. It still however stuttered like crazy under boost on the map I was using ( MM's 1_5a for FI). Looking at the AP the AFR sticks nicely at 11.2 so I don't think fuel is the issue. I switched over to the new baseline tuning map and tried it under boost ( just for troubleshooting purposes). On this map the AFR sits right around 12.4 and the car stutters only slightly but still makes no power under boost. My next course of action is going to have to be to swap back to the stock coils and see if everything goes back to normal just to make sure that its something with the kit setup that's the problem.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 08:14 PM
  #33  
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true--very true. but since it is an intermediate problem engine should be basically ok
check coils resistance also--anything is possible.
sounds like for some reason you have a weak spark.
OD
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 10:11 PM
  #34  
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I'm thinking the something is not right with the plug wires. Either they are switched or not seated in properly. You have to shove them in pretty hard to get them to seat tightly.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 09:03 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Another guy is having the same issue and he disconnected his battery during the swap. Might you have, as well?
I installed mine last night with the help of Jon316G. I had some misfires on start up at 6500 RPM but let her idle for a while and then revved back and it was fine. Drove it around the neighborhood (60 degrees in Cleveland on 12/27 - fracking nuts) and it felt smoother. Redlined twice without any misfires.

Install was a bigger PITA then expected but with Jon's help managed it around 4 hours. I'd call it a simple install - but not an easy install. Removing the throttle body would have sped it up. Also removing the big battery wire clipped on just next to the coils helped a ton. Tried putting on the small nuts over the OEM coil frame with that on and lost two nuts. Once we took that off it became significantly easier though still very difficult to thread the nuts on the OEM frame.

No pics of the after install but I ganked a pic from Jon's stock setup to show the offensive parts.
Attached Thumbnails BHR Ignition System: Results/Impressions-stock-coils2.jpg  
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 09:15 AM
  #36  
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Those four nuts holding the BHR coil bracket was the toughest.
Moving the wire loom out of the way helped to reach those nuts.

The graffiti pic RK drew all over is my car while I installed my coils.
I plan on taking a similar pic with the BHR coils installed using the same technique of removing the throttle body and moving the wire loom.
I know the instructions were to make things simple, but with removing as little as possible for the novice person.
If I can remove a couple items to make an install even easier, I'll take that route.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 10:19 AM
  #37  
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I would agree that it should take roughly one hour to install.
I just wish it was easier to get those four nuts on... most of the time is spent looking for nuts that fall into the abyss.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 10:24 AM
  #38  
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Put a dab of grease on the nut...and then it will stay in the socket...use some brake cleaner to clean off any residue after the install......or put a piece of tape on the nut to jam it in the socket tighter..
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 10:53 AM
  #39  
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From: Caput Mundi
A video is probably an overkill but including a list of the needed tools, or suggested tools in an instruction booklet is a good idea. Like telling that reaching the leading plugs with the front wheel removed is way easier -> this is a "jackstand recommended":p
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 10:58 AM
  #40  
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Yeah.. video might be overkill, but not bad to have here on the site.
Not sure if pics included with the instruction would help because it really is self explanatory.
Maybe when I do my coils I'll make a DIY video for it for those who want to see it installed.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 11:01 AM
  #41  
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I figured that anybody wanting to install aftermarket parts on their car would at least have some mechanical aptitude.
I guess it's back to square one with the instructions.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 11:03 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Easy_E1
I figured that anybody wanting to install aftermarket parts on their car would at least have some mechanical aptitude.
I guess it's back to square one with the instructions.
....or people could just read this thread. there are plenty of good suggestions on here.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 11:04 AM
  #43  
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Are they going to change the plugs too?
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 11:13 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ShellDude
Are they going to change the plugs too?
That would add an extra 10 minutes to the entire time.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 11:17 AM
  #45  
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the plugs were the easiest part.......with the right tools.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 11:18 AM
  #46  
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I think that if people can't follow relatively simple clear instructions they shouldn't be doing it in the first place. At some point people need to assess there skill set and determine if it is really something that they can do or not

I'm all for DIY..and helping people work on there cars...but sometimes it is dangerous to the car and the person if they get in over there head......

This install is really 4 bolts, 4 plugs and 4 spark plug wires....and removing a few things to get access to it easily........ Problem is ...hooking them up wrong can kill the engine.............People need to ask themselves...is it worth the risk..and can I follow instructions to the letter

Ray...your job is doing the simple clear instructions
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 11:23 AM
  #47  
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I've been a mechanic longer than a lot of you people have been alive. And the one thing that always sticks in my mind is what an old boss of mine told me.
"Always take more tools than you need to do the job"

If these DIY installers don't have the proper tools to do the job then they will have issues.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 11:29 AM
  #48  
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^^^
Damn toot your horn there buddy.
(butt you're right)
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 11:31 AM
  #49  
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From: Caput Mundi
That's why telling the necessary tools will make them all ask to themselves, at least "have i got this?".
It probably won't be useful to most, but there's always an idiot ready to make harm to his engine (Don't look at me, please!)
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Easy_E1
I figured that anybody wanting to install aftermarket parts on their car would at least have some mechanical aptitude.
I guess it's back to square one with the instructions.
How are people supposed to gain a "mechanical aptitude" if they are never given the opportunity to do it themselves?
Local guys can tell you that I insist they do the work themselves.
I may stand near to observe and offer tips on how to utilize some tools.
And it might take much longer than usual, but they gain that knowledge.

For BHR to come on here and almost poking fun at people having issues with the installation is the first time I've been disappointed in them.
We should be here to help even the most novice person and not make them feel like an idiot.

Sorry... rant over.
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