Agency Power Underdrive Pulley - Review & Pics
03-29-2008, 05:57 PM
#201
just installed mine along with the water pump and alternator pulleys. painted to match...didnt take long at all. no CELs and can really feel the difference.
here are the pics
here are the pics
02-17-2009, 04:59 AM
#205
I don't buy Kool-Aid
Good read! just did my AP and man I can tell on the first drive 
Dam that cel light flashing at me in my car! lol and I just changed my spark plugs coils and spark plug wires about 2 weeks ago so it cant be them doh!
Dam that cel light flashing at me in my car! lol and I just changed my spark plugs coils and spark plug wires about 2 weeks ago so it cant be them doh!
I'm going to re-install it right now.
04-05-2009, 03:10 AM
#209
anyone measured the diameter of the AP pullys water pump and alternator pulley?
the air-con is just under 120mm I'm guessing the smaller side is 85-90mm can anyone clarify this?
the air-con is just under 120mm I'm guessing the smaller side is 85-90mm can anyone clarify this?
04-15-2009, 07:14 PM
#211
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man i am about to burn the shyt out of my car, i been at it since this morning trying to put the pulley on but for some damn reason the hex screws dont aligne with the holes on the crank, do i need the black plate with spikes, or can i install it directly onto the creank shaft?
i look at it everyway possible and no go, im about to drill bigger holes in it.
i look at it everyway possible and no go, im about to drill bigger holes in it.
04-15-2009, 07:47 PM
#212
You need the "plate with spikes" because that is the e-shaft positioning plate.
When I installed mine I too had alignment issues.
I ended up drilling the holes SLIGHTLY bigger to get it to work.
And make sure you drill ALL THE HOLES or else it'll be out of balance.
And when you start it, make sure it doesn't wobble or appear unbalanced.
But I've been running mine for 4 years with the drilled holes and never had an issue.
When I installed mine I too had alignment issues.
I ended up drilling the holes SLIGHTLY bigger to get it to work.
And make sure you drill ALL THE HOLES or else it'll be out of balance.
And when you start it, make sure it doesn't wobble or appear unbalanced.
But I've been running mine for 4 years with the drilled holes and never had an issue.
04-15-2009, 10:27 PM
#213
304WVURX8
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so i finished hooking everything up and my car keeps shutting of then i loosen the belts but now they skeak and the cel came on, any ideas on how much to tighten them up, man this was so hard for me to figure out, im now pissed that my car isent working right.
04-15-2009, 10:30 PM
#214
Oh yeah... you'll need to reset the NVRAM with this pulley (I had the same thing happen to me).
Quoting this from teknics since it was well explained, but basically perform the reset which is bolded below:
Additionally, you'll notice the oil pressure gauge needle sweep to the middle and back down when done correctly.
And I always turn the key to the 'OFF' position when finished and then start it, but I don't know if that is necessary.
Quoting this from teknics since it was well explained, but basically perform the reset which is bolded below:
NVRAM (Non Volatile Random Access Memory)
NVRAM is a rather unique feature. The system memorizes the profile of the eccentric shaft plate on the e-shaft pulley. It basically knows how the e-shaft spins, on an individual basis, 2 cars NVRAM will generally never be absolutely identical, they're pretty close to unique.
As you'd imagine with such a specialized system you wouldn't want this information relearned and forgotten very easily, relearning the profile isn't a short process (drive cycle, dont worry you dont do anything special to relearn it). So this info is kept in a special area of the PCM it CANNOT be cleared in any way EXCEPT the proper procedure, you could disconnect the battery and do a jig for a year and it won't erase.
When/Why should you erase the NVRAM?
Realistically there are only a few times, generally the only times it's really needed is when replacing a motor since you'll be installing a new e-shaft position plate. Sometimes you'll also repair a misfire, yet the misfire code will return even with you not noticing anything, in those cases clearing the NVRAM will sometimes help. Also during PCM replacement it's good to clear it.
How do you reset NVRAM?
Here it is straight from mazda:
NOTE:2004-2008 and 2009 and later model year procedures are different.
2004-2008 Method
1. Turn ignition switch to "ON" position, but do not start engine.
2. Pump the brake pedal at least 20 times within 8 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON.
NVRAM is a rather unique feature. The system memorizes the profile of the eccentric shaft plate on the e-shaft pulley. It basically knows how the e-shaft spins, on an individual basis, 2 cars NVRAM will generally never be absolutely identical, they're pretty close to unique.
As you'd imagine with such a specialized system you wouldn't want this information relearned and forgotten very easily, relearning the profile isn't a short process (drive cycle, dont worry you dont do anything special to relearn it). So this info is kept in a special area of the PCM it CANNOT be cleared in any way EXCEPT the proper procedure, you could disconnect the battery and do a jig for a year and it won't erase.
When/Why should you erase the NVRAM?
Realistically there are only a few times, generally the only times it's really needed is when replacing a motor since you'll be installing a new e-shaft position plate. Sometimes you'll also repair a misfire, yet the misfire code will return even with you not noticing anything, in those cases clearing the NVRAM will sometimes help. Also during PCM replacement it's good to clear it.
How do you reset NVRAM?
Here it is straight from mazda:
NOTE:2004-2008 and 2009 and later model year procedures are different.
2004-2008 Method
1. Turn ignition switch to "ON" position, but do not start engine.
2. Pump the brake pedal at least 20 times within 8 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON.
And I always turn the key to the 'OFF' position when finished and then start it, but I don't know if that is necessary.
Last edited by Jon316G; 04-15-2009 at 10:33 PM.
04-15-2009, 10:31 PM
#215
304WVURX8
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took me longer than 8 hours, i did the drilling holes(ap did a horrible job on aligment, i removed everything, battery intake and right covers to try to easy the work but..... god damn im pissed and soo tired i just want a beer. ill deal with the belts tomorrow, but seriously what should i do about the car shutting off, and when i lossen them it squeaks?
04-15-2009, 10:34 PM
#216
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Oh yeah... you'll need to reset the NVRAM with this pulley (I had the same thing happen to me).
Quoting this from teknics since it was well explained, but basically perform the reset which is bolded below:
NVRAM (Non Volatile Random Access Memory)
NVRAM is a rather unique feature. The system memorizes the profile of the eccentric shaft plate on the e-shaft pulley. It basically knows how the e-shaft spins, on an individual basis, 2 cars NVRAM will generally never be absolutely identical, they're pretty close to unique.
As you'd imagine with such a specialized system you wouldn't want this information relearned and forgotten very easily, relearning the profile isn't a short process (drive cycle, dont worry you dont do anything special to relearn it). So this info is kept in a special area of the PCM it CANNOT be cleared in any way EXCEPT the proper procedure, you could disconnect the battery and do a jig for a year and it won't erase.
When/Why should you erase the NVRAM?
Realistically there are only a few times, generally the only times it's really needed is when replacing a motor since you'll be installing a new e-shaft position plate. Sometimes you'll also repair a misfire, yet the misfire code will return even with you not noticing anything, in those cases clearing the NVRAM will sometimes help. Also during PCM replacement it's good to clear it.
How do you reset NVRAM?
Here it is straight from mazda:
NOTE:2004-2008 and 2009 and later model year procedures are different.
2004-2008 Method
1. Turn ignition switch to "ON" position, but do not start engine.
2. Pump the brake pedal at least 20 times within 8 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON.
Additionally, you'll notice the oil pressure gauge needle sweep to the middle and back down when done correctly.
Quoting this from teknics since it was well explained, but basically perform the reset which is bolded below:
NVRAM (Non Volatile Random Access Memory)
NVRAM is a rather unique feature. The system memorizes the profile of the eccentric shaft plate on the e-shaft pulley. It basically knows how the e-shaft spins, on an individual basis, 2 cars NVRAM will generally never be absolutely identical, they're pretty close to unique.
As you'd imagine with such a specialized system you wouldn't want this information relearned and forgotten very easily, relearning the profile isn't a short process (drive cycle, dont worry you dont do anything special to relearn it). So this info is kept in a special area of the PCM it CANNOT be cleared in any way EXCEPT the proper procedure, you could disconnect the battery and do a jig for a year and it won't erase.
When/Why should you erase the NVRAM?
Realistically there are only a few times, generally the only times it's really needed is when replacing a motor since you'll be installing a new e-shaft position plate. Sometimes you'll also repair a misfire, yet the misfire code will return even with you not noticing anything, in those cases clearing the NVRAM will sometimes help. Also during PCM replacement it's good to clear it.
How do you reset NVRAM?
Here it is straight from mazda:
NOTE:2004-2008 and 2009 and later model year procedures are different.
2004-2008 Method
1. Turn ignition switch to "ON" position, but do not start engine.
2. Pump the brake pedal at least 20 times within 8 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON.
Additionally, you'll notice the oil pressure gauge needle sweep to the middle and back down when done correctly.
good stuff man, ill deff try it tomorrow to tired and drinking a BL, im glad some one had some expirience with my issue.
04-16-2009, 09:07 AM
#217
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so i took the advice and did the reset, but i dunno im not really convinced, i really don't notice anything different, kinda disappointing after all that work, maybe i have it setup wrong or what ever but the rpms don't really go up faster or drop faster, also when idling my car wants to shut off but it dosent quite, what could this be?
i tighten the belts to the point where they flex a lil but still not completely solid.
i tighten the belts to the point where they flex a lil but still not completely solid.
04-16-2009, 09:15 AM
#218
The Professor
Thread Starter
so i took the advice and did the reset, but i dunno im not really convinced, i really don't notice anything different, kinda disappointing after all that work, maybe i have it setup wrong or what ever but the rpms don't really go up faster or drop faster, also when idling my car wants to shut off but it dosent quite, what could this be?
i tighten the belts to the point where they flex a lil but still not completely solid.
i tighten the belts to the point where they flex a lil but still not completely solid.
The problem with shutting off is likely due to old coils and plugs, since your alternator is putting out a bit less at idle they are having a tougher time of it.
04-16-2009, 09:32 AM
#219
The Professor
Thread Starter
Oh I see the problem with the stalling, your trying to run a 1400w JLA AMP.
Underdrive pulley isn't really the mod for cars with big systems in them.
Underdrive pulley isn't really the mod for cars with big systems in them.
04-16-2009, 09:46 AM
#220
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hey guys quick question, i decided to go ahead and instal my AP pulley today as the weather is nice, the problem is i bought it used and dont have the 2 belts and my computers shot currently andof course my phone wont let me search. but anyway does know the part numbers for the belts and/or can i just run up to Autozone and get them? any help would be great. sorry for the inconvience.
brett
brett
04-16-2009, 07:05 PM
#221
304WVURX8
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thanx bro ,
but i finally got them to work i tighten the top belt a lilmore and it dosent squeak or shut off anymore it idles at .5rpms, and i drove around today and never mind what i sad earlier, this mod is deff worth it, i think that once i reseted the memory and the car started to learn it was ripping in every gear, i was feeling from every range of rpms, my 4th gear felt like my 3rd, pretty impressive, i dunno maybe i just didn see any improvement yesterday but today wow, i am impressed, alot more responce and alot more fun in everygear. good product over all i wish i would of figure out how to install it the first time instead of taken the whole day for a simple installation.
just and fyi for any1 that is doin the install, the bigges problem i had was trying to align the ap pulley with the cranckshaft and the black spike plate, if at first it dosent aligned, turn it around and it will deff fit, like someone said earlier the pulley only goes in one way and you have to make sure everything faces the right way to make a foresure fitman. the black plate behind the pulley took me like 3 hours to figure out so i figure that someone must of had the same problem and i hope this helps maybe.
05-13-2009, 09:38 PM
#222
304WVURX8
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so ive had the ap pulley installed for 2months and yesterday my belts were squicking, so i checked how the pulley was and its a little wobelly or how ever you spell it, i tried ti re-tighten it and it was tight as it could be, any ideas if this is bad, o yeah i drove it today and no squeaking but still not running perfectly aligned like the other stock pulleys....????
09-18-2009, 04:56 AM
#223
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Put on the pulley about two weeks ago. Didn't really notice a difference, though the car does seem a tad easier to stall out. I think this might be clouded by the fact I suspect I have a clogged cat, which would skew the results.
Seems to possibly rev a little bit faster, but nothing too drastic. I got it used for a very good price, so i'm not complaining at all. I see it as one of those 'couldn't do anything but make it better' type of mods, so a why-not if you ask me. Looks pretty, but kind of hard to see.
I'm going to be pairing these with the GReddy pulleys for a full kit.
Seems to possibly rev a little bit faster, but nothing too drastic. I got it used for a very good price, so i'm not complaining at all. I see it as one of those 'couldn't do anything but make it better' type of mods, so a why-not if you ask me. Looks pretty, but kind of hard to see.
I'm going to be pairing these with the GReddy pulleys for a full kit.
09-18-2009, 09:57 PM
#224
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hey guys quick question, i decided to go ahead and instal my AP pulley today as the weather is nice, the problem is i bought it used and dont have the 2 belts and my computers shot currently andof course my phone wont let me search. but anyway does know the part numbers for the belts and/or can i just run up to Autozone and get them? any help would be great. sorry for the inconvience.
brett
brett
