You do realize that what you are feeling/describing is just the difference in valving, which can be changed, right?

 

Sure to some extent. I do like how the high speed blowoff is separate from the compression adjustment, allowing for still a comfortable ride with the compression maxed out. Tried playing with the adjustments yesterday, and am happy with the wide adjustment range, and the ease of adjustment. I really like the way they are comfortable across the adjustment range, where the Konis were rarely comfortable.

Sure the Konis were adjustable, but it is a pita to extend the shock, push the button on the shock body and twist the body to change compression. The new shocks are a significant step up from the Koni 3012 shocks, and also a more advanced design than the old Motons.

 

Hey guys I have a couple questions, I'm on mobile so the search function is well.... Terrible lol. I've read through a bunch of threads and come across a bunch of different answers. I started autox last year and love it. I'm buying parts during the winter to upgrade my car a but. So far I've bought rpf-1 which will get either 265 or 255 star specs. I'm also in the process of buying koni yellows with tein s-techs. My question is about brake pads. I'm looking for a pad I can use year round without much squeal or dust that can handle autox and the occasional hpde.

Also what settings do you guys run/recommend on the koni's? I've read anywhere from full stiff f&r to full soft. I'm mostly curious about the rear since you can't adjust them on the car.

Thanks

 

I am officialy in STX now

 

How many days until this car will be put up for sale?

 

Try Hawk HP+
and for the suspension just play around with it and see what you like
i run pretty firm in the front and a little looser in the back

 

Unfortunately, that pad doesn't exist. There are lots of good options that meet your first three requirements but wouldn't be able to handle the fourth (hpde). As suggested, Hawk HP+ would probably stand the best chance of holding up to hpde and still be useable for street and autox, but HP+ are one of the worst choices for dust and squeal issues, and many folks, myself included, find them very difficult to modulate for autocross - they bite a bit too suddenly and hard. They also may not be a great choice for hpde, depending on how aggressive you are on the brakes - I gave up on them after a couple hpde's as they couldn't handle the heat, causing patterned deposits on the front rotors, which resulted in serious pulsing of the steering wheel under braking, especially at turn-in.

Most folks that face the situation you're descibing, assuming you stick with hpde for awhile, end up eventually coming to the conclusion that the only decent option is running good street pads for daily driving and autocross, and changing over to a set of dedicated track pads for hpde.

 

^^^this
have to pick and choose

 

Thanks a lot I appreciate it. Taking hpde out of the equitation, what would you recommend for street and autox use?

 

Stock pads are surprisingly good for street and autocross....or Hawk Ceramics.

Not much is good for street and heavy track use

You will be better with 2 sts and swapping back and forth

 

the ceramics dont dust or squeak either but you will fry them after 1 lap at a track event lol
only get them if youre not going to track it
thats what i use on my DD

 

Thanks guys

 

What makes the AEM not legal? I though "the air intake system up to, but not including, the engine inlet may be modified or replaced. The engine inlet is the throttle body..."? Or does the AEM require cutting holes in the existing structure?

 

You'll want to start reading at post 13 of this very thread.

 

it requires removing a part that you are not allowed to remove

 

Not yet,

I will probably be selling the Bislten PSS9 coil overs.


Simmons

 

lol pot, meet kettle?

So Brian, what's actually different about these shocks from the Motons? They're plenty expensive, but like Moton before them, their website is completely lacking on any details about how they're different from any of the competition.

I find shopping for dampers a very frustrating experience. Every other $5k+ product spends a lot of marketing time telling consumers why they're better than the other guy, with lots of details. Damper manufacturers just put "we're betterer!" on their website and hope people come to them with big wads of cash? wtf?

 

I think he missed my point. He paid more and got more features. The Koni 2812 or 2212 shocks are the next step above the 3012 wrt features. As for the street adjustment, maybe you need to be using that setting all the time, not just on the street ... or maybe swap out those ball busting spring rates

 

Not interested in the hankook rs3?

 

make sure your Motorsport account is up to date, they have an automated system now that will block orders if you haven't submitted results etc.

 

err, rather in this thread.

 

No, I'm in Ohio and it rains fairly often here, especially at the start of the season and the Dunlop performs better. Also hankook has a 140 rating and the Dunlop has 200 so I figured they'd last longer, making them about equal in price. Hankook being cheaper but also less runs able to do on them.

 

cant really judge it by the treadwear though since each brand submits its own treadwear numbers
so comparing brand to brand isnt all that accurate

 

I'd say there is a very high liklihood that the ST tire rating will be raised to 200TW, if not in 2013 then 2014 for sure

the Dunlop is better in the cold wet for sure than the Hankook

of course if you want really good in the cold & wet I know where there is a barely used (10 run) set of 265/35-18 Toyo R1R tires for $400.

 

^Where, I'll take them.