You can buy a kit which has more decals than the minimum required:Or you can also just order the three you need:

 

Hey guys. I just got my star specs mounted on my rpf-1 today and I'll be running my first event on them Sunday. I ran a few events bone stock last year but have installed koni yellows, tein s-tech and the aforementioned wheels and tires. My questions is what would be a good baseline psi be to start with? I filled them to 40. I understand a lot depends on driving style and I'm just looking for a place to start.

Also about the koni's, I have the rears on approx 25% stiffness and the fronts I'll turn to full stiff on race day. Question is, what should I be "feeling" for if the front is too stiff? Under or oversteer? And how many turns should I back off when adjusting?

Thanks I'm new at adjustable suspension so I'm trying to learn as I go lol. I just can't interpret the "butt-dyno" to solutions yet.

 

I ran a similar suspension/wheel/tire setup for a while and I ran 36F/32R psi
I also ran 8F/5R for shock stiffness but, it's really all in what you like
different strokes for different folks
best to just test it out and change things up to see what works best for you

 

Thanks,

Simmons

 

Your car will probably push with the shocks setup that way, particularly in transitions. Pay attention to what it does in a slalom, or around a tight pivot cones. Keep softening the front shocks until the rear end starts to come out, and then tighten them back up a bit. Also, don't make adjustments based on the behavior of the first run - cold tires are not a good reference point.

 

That's exactly the info I'm looking for. Thank you.

 

Cobb Tuning...

Do you guys think I will gain anything from having my car dyno tuned with the Cobb? Right now I'm just using the base map...

Intake, Exhaust, Midpipe are only power mods right now, no headers...

 

HeaderS?
You must done there got that v8 eight then don't ya!?

 

Yes, Cobb should be able to get you more power. They did for me (with a setup similar to yours) at their PDX tuning site, even though they warned me that they were not rotaty experts and wouldn't push the envelope too much.

 

Had a few springs laying around and had an opportunity to test them on a Roehrig dyno. Key things learned...springs tested were not linear when pushed to their maximum travel ratings and manufacturer provided maximum travel ratings are not necessarily accurate.

For reference, the Eibachs are 600lb 7" x 2.5" and are listed to have 3.78" of travel. Unfortunately I was looking forward to trying them on the car but they don't seem to be option. Estimating the front spring to compress 1.56" when the car is on the ground it only offers approximately .75" to 1" of usable travel in compression. All other springs were 7" except the Hyperco which was just sitting around and looked to be a 8" x 2.25" spring.

Additional info found and per Eibach's literature: "All Eibach motorsport springs are tested between 20% and 70% of the spring’s total travel." Based on this and the results you should count on having about 50% of their rated travel to work with.

 

Depending on your ride height, I would expect to be into the bump stops by this point anyway.

 

Bumpstops? Don't have them, at least for now. There's approximately 2" of shock travel at my ride height which is low enough not to clear most obstacles on the street. My goal was to have the tire bottom out before my shock did but haven't determined if that's the case just yet.

 

No bumpstops isn't a good thing...

if you bottom out you instantly go to an infinite springrate...and that is not a suggested suspension mod

 

And if you hit a bump stop it is a good thing? I choose the later of having the additional bump stop-less travel.

 

LOL.....at least the bump stop has a bit of give

Why are you so limited in your travel?...maybe the car is too low

 

Moton's don't have bump stops...

So they must not always be needed..

 

Enough spring rate and travel and you don't need them

 

Well considering I don't expect to use more than an 1" or so during an autox run unless a bump comes into to play, I think I'll be A-Okay.

 

I did 4 events so far, 3 in the dry and one in the wet. I got 2nd, 3rd, 5th, and 8th in Pax so far.

The car was a handfull in the Wet/cold event on the Dunlops. This Saturday I have a test and tune in NJ, and i am going to run the Dunlops and Toyo's back to back to see what I like better. I was hoping to have the car fully done before the D.C. pro, but that's not going to happen.

Simmons

 

^^In otherwords you were just as slow as everyone else

Racing shocks don't come with bumpstops, whether they are needed or not depends on many factors.

 

For those of you running coilovers, how much preload to you run? I am low and I feel that I have too much travel due to my front tires rubbing at the top of the fender liners under load. Right now I basically just hand tightened the spring perch so there isn't any up and down movement but springs still turn..

 

Since I posed the above, I've added a mid-pipe, replaced the JIC's with Ohlins, and relocated the battery to the trunk. Total weight came in only 10 lbs less than last year, which is a bit disappointing.

With 215 lb driver and exactly 1/4 tank of gas:
LF: 809 lb RF: 750 lb
LR: 747 lb RR: 678 lb

Total w/ driver: 2984 lbs
Cross%: 50.0%
Front%: 52.2%
Left%: 52.1%

Total w/o driver: 2769 lbs

 

Not sure what you mean??


Simmons

 

You will be awakened from your pax number dream soon enough ...

 

We will see next week.

The only reason I posted pax numbers is because STX isn't that big around here.


Simmons