Safe temps on the track
#26
No-one has talked about the rear diff, that sucker gets hot! Even the stock unit gets up above 250 within 30minutes of hard racing so be prepared to change the fluids before and after to be safe depending on how long your on track. Again I went 4hrs straight last fall without any failures but the fluid was changed before and after.
Stephen
Stephen
Friction. Wrapping the exhaust helps though.
#28
SII rx8s have a pumpkin with deeper cooling fins. That kind of solution plus a duct and a wrapped exhaust definitely help keep the temps a bit more under control.
If one had a deep budget and bulky ***** a billet aluminium cover with more, thinner fins could work wonders as well.
If one had a deep budget and bulky ***** a billet aluminium cover with more, thinner fins could work wonders as well.
#29
SARX Legend
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I have measured oil temps from both a bung in the pan and the return side of the oil cooler line (custom lines and thermostat) and I saw literally no noticeable difference in oil temps.
As for coolant temps, I get my readings from the stock temp sensor. Rob @ Pinapple Racing told me that coolant temps above 220F for any extended amount of time will kill the stock coolant seals. The stock gauge is not a dummy gauge but doesn't start moving past normal until about 243F.
As for coolant temps, I get my readings from the stock temp sensor. Rob @ Pinapple Racing told me that coolant temps above 220F for any extended amount of time will kill the stock coolant seals. The stock gauge is not a dummy gauge but doesn't start moving past normal until about 243F.
#30
Driver of #50 RX8
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OMG I can't beleive I missed that one My bad, just reading to quickly then thinking while I typed! Interesting idea with the 09 housing... Since I do have a a way to measure the results maybe I should try and obtain an 09 housing and do a test and see the difference.
PS: Yes my exhaust is wrapped starting well before the transmission and running down past the fuel tank as well.
What temps are you getting? I can't imagine why a cooler isn't helping to keep the temps down.
Thanks for the info, I have never noticed it anywhere but 1/2 way and always refer to the guage instead. This is why I wondered what it was actually reading. Since the ECU is sending out a water tempurature this makes sense. I can read that info and I will try and pay attention and maybe report back whne is starts reading and what 1/2 way really is for a temp. I don't think I will ever get to 243 so I hope to never report what the top side of "normal" is
I remember someone telling me that the pressure guage was reading oil pressure back a while ago... umm no. This is the reason I kinda wondered.
Stephen
PS: Yes my exhaust is wrapped starting well before the transmission and running down past the fuel tank as well.
As for coolant temps, I get my readings from the stock temp sensor. Rob @ Pinapple Racing told me that coolant temps above 220F for any extended amount of time will kill the stock coolant seals. The stock gauge is not a dummy gauge but doesn't start moving past normal until about 243F.
I remember someone telling me that the pressure guage was reading oil pressure back a while ago... umm no. This is the reason I kinda wondered.
Stephen
#31
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Oh I meant no difference between the two location in terms of temperature readings. I have had two oil cooler configurations (single large Fluidyne and now a stock drivers side with a custom center mount) and both have worked great at keeping temps down and that is with the turbo adding heat to it. Well in traffic, road trips, etc., I have not been on the track since getting tuned. Hopefully I will get to H2R this spring. On the track in Texas heat should be a pretty good test but you competitive guys go way harder so I'm not sure there is a good comparison.
Generally when hauling *** around town thru the country, etc. I see max temps of 210F oil and 210-215F coolant. But that is with cooling system modifications. I have had and changed my setup a few times.
Generally when hauling *** around town thru the country, etc. I see max temps of 210F oil and 210-215F coolant. But that is with cooling system modifications. I have had and changed my setup a few times.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 04-03-2013 at 04:37 PM.
#32
Registered
SII rx8s have a pumpkin with deeper cooling fins. That kind of solution plus a duct and a wrapped exhaust definitely help keep the temps a bit more under control.
If one had a deep budget and bulky ***** a billet aluminium cover with more, thinner fins could work wonders as well.
If one had a deep budget and bulky ***** a billet aluminium cover with more, thinner fins could work wonders as well.
Last edited by etzilon; 04-03-2013 at 07:18 PM.
#33
Driver of #50 RX8
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Oh I meant no difference between the two location in terms of temperature readings. I have had two oil cooler configurations (single large Fluidyne and now a stock drivers side with a custom center mount) and both have worked great at keeping temps down and that is with the turbo adding heat to it. Well in traffic, road trips, etc., I have not been on the track since getting tuned. Hopefully I will get to H2R this spring.
Have you ever measured near the filter with something similar to the normal RB adaptor? anyone ever notice a difference? Someone here mentioned 30degree difference...
Stephen
#34
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Thanks for the info, I have never noticed it anywhere but 1/2 way and always refer to the guage instead. This is why I wondered what it was actually reading. Since the ECU is sending out a water tempurature this makes sense. I can read that info and I will try and pay attention and maybe report back whne is starts reading and what 1/2 way really is for a temp. I don't think I will ever get to 243 so I hope to never report what the top side of "normal" is
I remember someone telling me that the pressure guage was reading oil pressure back a while ago... umm no. This is the reason I kinda wondered.
Stephen
I remember someone telling me that the pressure guage was reading oil pressure back a while ago... umm no. This is the reason I kinda wondered.
Stephen
Correct, the oil pressure gauge is a 3 position switch: Engine Off, Engine On, with the 3rd position to the right only showing up for some diagnostic test(s) (like the ECU reset procedure).
The water gauge is an actual gauge, but it's 'over ridden' by the ECU, and not getting it's value straight from the water. It stops moving up at ~160F, and hold there until 240s, where it starts moving again.
Both gauges are useless for actually trying to monitor things.
#35
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Correct, the oil pressure gauge is a 3 position switch: Engine Off, Engine On, with the 3rd position to the right only showing up for some diagnostic test(s) (like the ECU reset procedure).
The water gauge is an actual gauge, but it's 'over ridden' by the ECU, and not getting it's value straight from the water. It stops moving up at ~160F, and hold there until 240s, where it starts moving again.
Both gauges are useless for actually trying to monitor things.
The water gauge is an actual gauge, but it's 'over ridden' by the ECU, and not getting it's value straight from the water. It stops moving up at ~160F, and hold there until 240s, where it starts moving again.
Both gauges are useless for actually trying to monitor things.
Nice, some of you guys are such a wealth of knowledge! I keep learning a bit more info all the time...
Stephen
#36
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I have an 180F oil thermostat.
#37
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we have been talking about temps for 7 years now..............
Dont compare temps in the older rotary engine to this one. This one has different requirements. I have said before that oil temps over 200F ( cool side) for lenghts of time means you probably will not have a long lasting well performing street engine. I now say it again. That is --if you want a 100K mile engine.
but, you could get lucky......
Dont compare temps in the older rotary engine to this one. This one has different requirements. I have said before that oil temps over 200F ( cool side) for lenghts of time means you probably will not have a long lasting well performing street engine. I now say it again. That is --if you want a 100K mile engine.
but, you could get lucky......
Last edited by olddragger; 04-03-2013 at 05:50 PM.
#41
Modulated Moderator
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There is no way you can race this car without a diff cooler.......I have seen temps over 300 degrees in less than 20 minutes.....I fried a pump because I forgot to turn it on...and decided to be a hero and try and cool things down when the temps were over 280 degrees. Thing is the pumps start to melt lower than that ......made a list
Tranny is less of an issue...it stays much cooler than the diff....cooler would be ideal..but you can get away without it if the races are short
Tranny is less of an issue...it stays much cooler than the diff....cooler would be ideal..but you can get away without it if the races are short
#42
How/where are you getting your oil temps for the data system? this can make a big difference on what to use as a warning light. someone here mentioned a 30 degree difference, I have no idea on if that is true but if it is you need to know if your measuring the high side or the low side.
Oil: 225 deg-F, measured at the oil filter sandwich plate
Water: 220 deg-F, measured at the heater core line (Racing Beat adapter)
Catalyst: Ignoring it since I'm putting in the BHR catless midpipe on Monday
Transmission: Cannot measure at this time
#46
rev it up
Any geinuses here that can create an App or OBD transmitter that can relay such data for track enthusists?
#50
For the record, guys, I was asking for safe temps so I could set warning lights on my gauges. I wasn't looking at them except during my cool down lap, but since I have a Lo-Tek gauge pod, having them flash at certain temperatures/pressures would catch my eye since they're at eye level.
I'll start a new thread for a track day summary
Thanks!
I'll start a new thread for a track day summary
Thanks!
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