https://www.silentsport.info/produkt...sport-premium/

 

How did you end up ordering? It looks like that website at least doesn't show an option to ship to the US.

 

The company I bought from here in the USA quit selling it a long time ago. You can try googling it, but here was one it seems:

Silent Sport Premium Muffler Packing [18825] - $21.95 : Motorsports of Utah, Online Store

The german site explains how to calculate how much you might need.

I can’t take credit either. David Whitener turned me onto it. The two mufflers I pulled off from the pic several pages back are still fully packed and held up well, but they were at the back where it runs cooler. Had a Moroso Spiralflow in the middle with them. Whether or not it will help you with a 3.5” system I can’t be sure of because there are a lot of factors. IMO you might probably need one of those spiral baffles, but probably the 4” size with larger housing and good transitions like the one I built for the new setup. Which I’m still not 100% will be used. I prefer to try and get by with two small ones in the dual 2.5” t-pipes only if possible for min weight.

Ps: post up pics of the 3.5” system plz

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When I'm back in the air later this week, I'll try to not forget the pics. I saw that website as well, had some pause with the listed last update of 2007. Gonna need to make some calls

 

Noticed after installing the LCA/spindle bushings in an S2 I picked up for STX, that the lower offset bushing could be a worthy upgrade for those looking to gain additional clearance and run 315's with 11's. Utilizing them to gain caster rather than camber.

Surprisingly easy job when using the harbor freight tool set of ball joint separator and bearing press kit. Even though I broke the separator tool on the last lower ball joint, a sledge hammer did the trick.

 

You might need the camber more with the Hoosiers though

this is designated a tie rod separator, but it serves me well with ball joints and rear suspension too. I much prefer it over the HF tool you mentioned

https://www.otctools.com/products/tie-rod-end-remover

Oh yeah, I put nickel anti-seize on all those studs and threads so they come apart a lot easier in future tear-downs too.
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Heard from Whitener, he now uses Bristol Core Spec, I think i settled on the right calc that I need 1250g for the rear muffler, got 1500 on the way. I'm hoping between this, the turn down and the vortex cone i have some level of improvement. Now i need to plan where to fit the spiral turbo baffle, and get that project started. My first guess is just beyond the trans tunnel.

 

On the BMW I used the Bristol Core Spec stuff to repack my Magnaflow. It brought the tone back to how it was when the Magnaflow was new, and made the car a bit quieter, but it wasn't a huge change. What ended up making that car quiet was swapping to a larger oval Borla muffler with a Burns single-stage 14" x 6" muffler after the Borla.

I guess what I'm saying is the Bristol packing is better than no packing, and I found it lasted a lot longer than the factory stuff Magnaflow uses, but it's not going to turn an ear-bleeder into something tolerable.

 

That will just depend on what it had in it. The stainless scrubble takes the heat, but doesn’t do much for sound. Another supplier uses rolled up hardware screen which isn’t any better for sound, but weighs a lot more. Not sure if the standard packing was the same as I received way back in 2005; probably not since technology marches on, but it didn’t even last a day against the rotary exhaust temperature.

Looks like the Bristol Spec 19 material at least has a good temp rating. I’d expect it to perform well for the application based on the specs, but have no direct experience with it. All I had was a 3” Inlet by 4” OD x12” long body open spiral muffler and two of those small mufflers on the split tailpipes and never had sound issues. Many years back I didn’t have a good experience with the perforated cone kluge. It may not be as restrictive in 3.5”, but based on that experience my expectation is that it will likely defeat the purpose of using a large exhaust tube.


I believe those mufflers originated from Coast Fabrication and everyone copied their design or rebrands them in their name. That’s where I usually bought them from, but they have some issues. The screws in the end caps will eventually seize up. Tried to get them to sell me the muffler ends undrilled so I could clamp them instead. Which they said no to even building them custom for me regardless of cost; so take it or leave it. So I left ...

 

Lava Rock......

 

Back when the Flintstones were popular, maybe ...

 

Simple solutions still work...... todays engines don't have an exhaust that is higher temp or sound level that is louder than when the Flinstones were popular

 

Thanks to current technology the temperature is not really the issue any more. If your Renesis is running that hot the side seals are going to give out long before the muffler packing.

 

Actually, this might do a something. With the Rotary exhaust temps, the Burns stuff shipped with scrubble. As to the cone, it's a temporary measure as it can be clamped on. Long term plan is definitely a spiral muffler. i guess I just need to figure out if i should do the full 30" and be sure. Sounds like you had good results with a much smaller spiral.

Bristol Core was very helpful to talk to, I feel better about the amount of bulk I bought and my target density. I also just talked to MM, and unfortunately the bushings are being made under a pretty recent arrangement with a new place than before, and the supplier is still quoting "about 2 weeks". No given ETA on that arrival.

 

Other people had issues with the Moroso spiral coming apart. I never did, not sure what the difference is unless I was just lucky. My current plan isn’t tested yet. I do intend to have the baffles fully welded. They aren’t supplied that way, but may be able to order as such. I didn’t think to ask.

 

The Bristol Core Spec did some meaningful work. Still doing the baffles, have everything on order. I'm hoping my phone doesn't die before i can take pics this time.

 

Maybe you should have bought a USB charger too, lol

 

In typical fashion, my solution is to get a nicer tow vehicle instead of fixing the old van. My receipts stack would be a lot smaller if I did the inverse more often...

 

8 DSP drivers registered for Bristol, 4 of them will be in RX8s, wooooooo!

 

Well good luck if you’re competing.

Looking kind of slim for me to racing nationally this year. Still pushing forward, just a lot of unexpected challenges (understatement of the year , kind of goes with the custom, pushing the limits territory ). Also spent the last two weeks, cleaning, organizing, new shop equipment, etc. to help get’r done. Hopefully will be able to post some updates this weekend.

 

My solution to the engine mount issue; added approx. 3/8” thickness to get back to the correct installed engine height

 

Finally getting back to this taking a slightly renewed approach for the fill/vent tube, coil mounting, and UIM support. It all mounts on the crankcase vent/fill flange with each pair of L/T coils centered over each rotor housing. I should get the spark wires done tomorrow and ignition harness installed. They’re only going to be about 7” long down to the spark plugs.























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Honestly, using the filler tube and swapping it to a V2A vs a recirculation is sort of cool. Think the filter will ever get saturated?

 

Wachatalkinaboutwillis?


Hard to get pictures that really show it well; time to move on to the next thing ...

 

I'm not entirely sure what's going on here - you're using the aluminum tube with the filter on it as a replacement for the factory oil fill tube which also serves to vent the sump to the atmosphere?