The Official "RX8 in DSP" Thread
#1127
#1128
The company I bought from here in the USA quit selling it a long time ago. You can try googling it, but here was one it seems:
Silent Sport Premium Muffler Packing [18825] - $21.95 : Motorsports of Utah, Online Store
The german site explains how to calculate how much you might need.
I can’t take credit either. David Whitener turned me onto it. The two mufflers I pulled off from the pic several pages back are still fully packed and held up well, but they were at the back where it runs cooler. Had a Moroso Spiralflow in the middle with them. Whether or not it will help you with a 3.5” system I can’t be sure of because there are a lot of factors. IMO you might probably need one of those spiral baffles, but probably the 4” size with larger housing and good transitions like the one I built for the new setup. Which I’m still not 100% will be used. I prefer to try and get by with two small ones in the dual 2.5” t-pipes only if possible for min weight.
Ps: post up pics of the 3.5” system plz
.
Silent Sport Premium Muffler Packing [18825] - $21.95 : Motorsports of Utah, Online Store
The german site explains how to calculate how much you might need.
I can’t take credit either. David Whitener turned me onto it. The two mufflers I pulled off from the pic several pages back are still fully packed and held up well, but they were at the back where it runs cooler. Had a Moroso Spiralflow in the middle with them. Whether or not it will help you with a 3.5” system I can’t be sure of because there are a lot of factors. IMO you might probably need one of those spiral baffles, but probably the 4” size with larger housing and good transitions like the one I built for the new setup. Which I’m still not 100% will be used. I prefer to try and get by with two small ones in the dual 2.5” t-pipes only if possible for min weight.
Ps: post up pics of the 3.5” system plz
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 06-10-2019 at 03:22 PM.
#1129
The company I bought from here in the USA quit selling it a long time ago. You can try googling it, but here was one it seems:
Silent Sport Premium Muffler Packing [18825] - $21.95 : Motorsports of Utah, Online Store
The german site explains how to calculate how much you might need.
I can’t take credit either. David Whitener turned me onto it. The two mufflers I pulled off from the pic several pages back are still fully packed and held up well, but they were at the back where it runs cooler. Had a Moroso Spiralflow in the middle with them. Whether or not it will help you with a 3.5” system I can’t be sure of because there are a lot of factors. IMO you might probably need one of those spiral baffles, but probably the 4” size with larger housing and good transitions like the one I built for the new setup. Which I’m still not 100% will be used. I prefer to try and get by with two small ones in the dual 2.5” t-pipes only if possible for min weight.
Ps: post up pics of the 3.5” system plz
.
Silent Sport Premium Muffler Packing [18825] - $21.95 : Motorsports of Utah, Online Store
The german site explains how to calculate how much you might need.
I can’t take credit either. David Whitener turned me onto it. The two mufflers I pulled off from the pic several pages back are still fully packed and held up well, but they were at the back where it runs cooler. Had a Moroso Spiralflow in the middle with them. Whether or not it will help you with a 3.5” system I can’t be sure of because there are a lot of factors. IMO you might probably need one of those spiral baffles, but probably the 4” size with larger housing and good transitions like the one I built for the new setup. Which I’m still not 100% will be used. I prefer to try and get by with two small ones in the dual 2.5” t-pipes only if possible for min weight.
Ps: post up pics of the 3.5” system plz
.
#1130
Spindle/LCA Bushing
Noticed after installing the LCA/spindle bushings in an S2 I picked up for STX, that the lower offset bushing could be a worthy upgrade for those looking to gain additional clearance and run 315's with 11's. Utilizing them to gain caster rather than camber.
Surprisingly easy job when using the harbor freight tool set of ball joint separator and bearing press kit. Even though I broke the separator tool on the last lower ball joint, a sledge hammer did the trick.
Surprisingly easy job when using the harbor freight tool set of ball joint separator and bearing press kit. Even though I broke the separator tool on the last lower ball joint, a sledge hammer did the trick.
The following users liked this post:
DocWalt (12-16-2020)
#1131
You might need the camber more with the Hoosiers though
this is designated a tie rod separator, but it serves me well with ball joints and rear suspension too. I much prefer it over the HF tool you mentioned
https://www.otctools.com/products/tie-rod-end-remover
Oh yeah, I put nickel anti-seize on all those studs and threads so they come apart a lot easier in future tear-downs too.
.
this is designated a tie rod separator, but it serves me well with ball joints and rear suspension too. I much prefer it over the HF tool you mentioned
https://www.otctools.com/products/tie-rod-end-remover
Oh yeah, I put nickel anti-seize on all those studs and threads so they come apart a lot easier in future tear-downs too.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 06-11-2019 at 01:32 AM.
#1132
Heard from Whitener, he now uses Bristol Core Spec, I think i settled on the right calc that I need 1250g for the rear muffler, got 1500 on the way. I'm hoping between this, the turn down and the vortex cone i have some level of improvement. Now i need to plan where to fit the spiral turbo baffle, and get that project started. My first guess is just beyond the trans tunnel.
#1133
Heard from Whitener, he now uses Bristol Core Spec, I think i settled on the right calc that I need 1250g for the rear muffler, got 1500 on the way. I'm hoping between this, the turn down and the vortex cone i have some level of improvement. Now i need to plan where to fit the spiral turbo baffle, and get that project started. My first guess is just beyond the trans tunnel.
I guess what I'm saying is the Bristol packing is better than no packing, and I found it lasted a lot longer than the factory stuff Magnaflow uses, but it's not going to turn an ear-bleeder into something tolerable.
#1134
That will just depend on what it had in it. The stainless scrubble takes the heat, but doesn’t do much for sound. Another supplier uses rolled up hardware screen which isn’t any better for sound, but weighs a lot more. Not sure if the standard packing was the same as I received way back in 2005; probably not since technology marches on, but it didn’t even last a day against the rotary exhaust temperature.
Looks like the Bristol Spec 19 material at least has a good temp rating. I’d expect it to perform well for the application based on the specs, but have no direct experience with it. All I had was a 3” Inlet by 4” OD x12” long body open spiral muffler and two of those small mufflers on the split tailpipes and never had sound issues. Many years back I didn’t have a good experience with the perforated cone kluge. It may not be as restrictive in 3.5”, but based on that experience my expectation is that it will likely defeat the purpose of using a large exhaust tube.
I believe those mufflers originated from Coast Fabrication and everyone copied their design or rebrands them in their name. That’s where I usually bought them from, but they have some issues. The screws in the end caps will eventually seize up. Tried to get them to sell me the muffler ends undrilled so I could clamp them instead. Which they said no to even building them custom for me regardless of cost; so take it or leave it. So I left ...
Looks like the Bristol Spec 19 material at least has a good temp rating. I’d expect it to perform well for the application based on the specs, but have no direct experience with it. All I had was a 3” Inlet by 4” OD x12” long body open spiral muffler and two of those small mufflers on the split tailpipes and never had sound issues. Many years back I didn’t have a good experience with the perforated cone kluge. It may not be as restrictive in 3.5”, but based on that experience my expectation is that it will likely defeat the purpose of using a large exhaust tube.
I believe those mufflers originated from Coast Fabrication and everyone copied their design or rebrands them in their name. That’s where I usually bought them from, but they have some issues. The screws in the end caps will eventually seize up. Tried to get them to sell me the muffler ends undrilled so I could clamp them instead. Which they said no to even building them custom for me regardless of cost; so take it or leave it. So I left ...
#1139
Actually, this might do a something. With the Rotary exhaust temps, the Burns stuff shipped with scrubble. As to the cone, it's a temporary measure as it can be clamped on. Long term plan is definitely a spiral muffler. i guess I just need to figure out if i should do the full 30" and be sure. Sounds like you had good results with a much smaller spiral.
Bristol Core was very helpful to talk to, I feel better about the amount of bulk I bought and my target density. I also just talked to MM, and unfortunately the bushings are being made under a pretty recent arrangement with a new place than before, and the supplier is still quoting "about 2 weeks". No given ETA on that arrival.
Bristol Core was very helpful to talk to, I feel better about the amount of bulk I bought and my target density. I also just talked to MM, and unfortunately the bushings are being made under a pretty recent arrangement with a new place than before, and the supplier is still quoting "about 2 weeks". No given ETA on that arrival.
Last edited by mrazny; 06-12-2019 at 05:32 PM.
#1140
Other people had issues with the Moroso spiral coming apart. I never did, not sure what the difference is unless I was just lucky. My current plan isn’t tested yet. I do intend to have the baffles fully welded. They aren’t supplied that way, but may be able to order as such. I didn’t think to ask.
#1143
#1145
Well good luck if you’re competing.
Looking kind of slim for me to racing nationally this year. Still pushing forward, just a lot of unexpected challenges (understatement of the year , kind of goes with the custom, pushing the limits territory ). Also spent the last two weeks, cleaning, organizing, new shop equipment, etc. to help get’r done. Hopefully will be able to post some updates this weekend.
Looking kind of slim for me to racing nationally this year. Still pushing forward, just a lot of unexpected challenges (understatement of the year , kind of goes with the custom, pushing the limits territory ). Also spent the last two weeks, cleaning, organizing, new shop equipment, etc. to help get’r done. Hopefully will be able to post some updates this weekend.
The following users liked this post:
Brettus (06-29-2019)
#1147
Finally getting back to this taking a slightly renewed approach for the fill/vent tube, coil mounting, and UIM support. It all mounts on the crankcase vent/fill flange with each pair of L/T coils centered over each rotor housing. I should get the spark wires done tomorrow and ignition harness installed. They’re only going to be about 7” long down to the spark plugs.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 06-30-2019 at 12:58 AM.
The following users liked this post:
AreAxeAte (08-25-2019)
#1150
I'm not entirely sure what's going on here - you're using the aluminum tube with the filter on it as a replacement for the factory oil fill tube which also serves to vent the sump to the atmosphere?