With what for spring rates though And what front bar?

Koni cars run crazy stiff spring rates compared to stock...and different front to rear bias

I ran with the Progress front and no rear...with KW's...and it understeered like crazy.

It is very important that all of the variables are used here....

Springs, Damping rates, sway's, tire pressure, camber all are in the mix

Have to compare apples and apples...or at least Macintosh to Spartans

 

Yea, you are sooooo right. I have the RB front and OEM rear now. So all I will do is play with tire pressure and the coilover height adjustments if I take the bar off. I think it will be fun if I have time to play. This is going to be a very loose atmosphere with non-competitive sessions. 3 cars on track at one time. I can afford to make some adjustments and not worry about getting eaten up by a silly vette! :D

We did this event last year in some serious rain and I left my RA1's on the first half of the day just for the experience of driving in really slippery conditions. It was a great experience and one that taught me a lot about car control and smooth input. Wasn't very fast but it paid off in the long run. I think this could be similar. I might not hone in on the perfect setting but at least I will know at the end of the day if this direction is worth pursuing with my set-up. May just try it for one session. I suspect we might get 5 or 6 sessions so we should have plenty of time to play with it.

So did you have to throw your car into the turn like Grand Marque?
Did you change it out promptly or try to adjust into the set-up?

 

DBL post alert... sorry!

My car feels neutral right now, I should probably have my head examined for even thinking about making any changes, however, if you don't experiment, I guess you never know if something might be better. Or at least you find out you shouldn't have messed with it and that's good too. Olddragger is always wrenching his car, that boy never quits.

 

i know and I am tired!
dan--you are right dude--it all influences each other. Plus the drivers style of driving has to be taken into consideration.
the s.c has really changed the car and getting more grip in the rear is something I need. But not at the expense of big understeer. If i can get enough load on the outside front WHILE i am trying to accelerate pretty hard then i will be where i want. oversteer is too much fun at little T--NOT at road atlanta!
anyway we are just playing!
OD

 

Hi guys, I need some help from you.

Soon I will install my new setup:

KW Inox V3 Coilover
GTspec strutbar Front & Rear
Greddy rear trunk bar
AP Sways Front & Rear
AP End-links

Is this a good alignment to start working with for me?

- Front L Camber: -1.8º
- Front R Camber: -1.8º
- Cross Camber: -0.1º
- Front L Caster: 6.5º
- Front R Caster: 6.6º
- Cross Caster: -0.1º
- Front Toe L: 0.03"
- Front Toe R: 0.03"
- Total Toe: 0.06"
- Rear Camber L: -2.0º
- Rear Camber R: -2.0º
- Rear Toe L: 0.08"
- Rear Toe R: 0.08"
- Total Toe: 0.16"
- Thrust Angle: -0.00º

 

Dropping the rear sway was not going to happen at TGPR. I had a new set of R888's that had not been shaved and they were a hand full to handle. The tread squiggle was too much to deal with to add anymore elements. Latter part of the day she started to handle much better. Had to keep the "variables" in check.

 

So is it a good start or should I start with different alignment?

 

I would start with less camber in the back than in front or close to the same. More rear camber will cause the car to understeer.

 

Thanks.. I pass it on to the racing company that will set up my car.

Its just for a starting point, we will make the shake down test and do adjustments soon.

 

I just had mine done today, I told the guy what I want (some track day)

and I forgot what exactly it was (I dont have the paper right now), but I remember the front left camber is something like -1.3, and right is -1.8

he said the settings I have now is something between full racing and street. Is it right ?

I dunno much about alignment settings ...

 

ok well get this. I ran Little taladaga on a 1.2 on the front and a 1.4 on the rear.
when i had my front tires flipped the guy said the wear on them was as uniform as it could get.
running a 275/35/18 on an enkei 9.5x18 well. yall know my suspension. i ran 32 lbs cold on a 78F day--hot pressures--best i could get them---was 40.
a 1.8 up front and a 2.0 in the rear will cause increased wear on the street.
olddragger

 

Which tires are you running? That seems high to me. I usually try to keep my hot pressure closer to 35 which depending on the day means I start around 28 or lower cold. I'm running 245/40/18 Hoosier R3S04s most of the time tho I keep my 275/35/18 Cooper 2XS's at the same pressures if it's raining out or I'm only doing a half day and don't want to eff with tire changes.

Going in for another alignment on Sunday. Expect to get a little more front camber now that I'm lower. Hopefully can run up to 1.5/1.7.

 

my point is that increased camber sometimes is not needed.
olddragger

 

It finally came time for me to get my first alignment done. I've combed over this and many other threads for ideal alignments for track, autocross, and daily driving, and tried to formulate a middle ground between them that would work for me (basically overall improved handling that won't drastically chew up my new RE-01R 245 tires). I plan on doing a full season of autocross and at least one HPDE event this year.

I settled on some numbers to have set: -1.5 front L&R camber, max caster, -1.7 rear L&R camber, slight toe out in the front, and slight toe in on the back. After some more thought, I decided to let these numbers sit in the back of my head for the time being and just determine what I should do based on what the car was currently set to.

I got the alignment done last week and as far as I can tell for daily driving, things are good. I am looking forward to the first autocross event of the season next weekend.

The original alignment was stock specification (approximate because we forgot to record the values before making changes, yet I have a fuzzy memory about what they were). I had the alignment done with me sitting in the car.

___orig. (stock)________new________
________(approx.)_____(actual)_____

camber:
FL: . . . -5/8 . . . . -1 1/4 . . .
FR: . . . -7/8 . . . . -1 1/4 . . .
RL: . . . -1 5/8 . . . -2 . . . . .
RR: . . . -2 1/4 . . . -2 . . . . .

caster:
FL: . . . 6 5/8 . . . . 7 1/2 . . .
FR: . . . 6 1/2 . . . . 7 5/8 . . .

toe (in):
FL: . . . 1/16 . . . . . 0 . . . . .
FR: . . . 1/16 . . . . . 0 . . . . .
RL: . . . 1/16 . . . . 1/16 . . . .
RR: . . . 1/16 . . . . 1/16 . . . .

Opinions on this setup? This is all running on stock suspension (will get Koni yellows in the semi-near future). Based on my original planned numbers, I felt the front camber numbers to be a bit low. I figure it's probably better to take smaller increments of adjustment and see how they work first, then adjust again later if necessary.

 

Depends a lot on suspension setup in my experience at least. With TEIN Flex, I had to remove the rear sway bar to get the car back to neutral with the rest of my setup, running on RT-615s. The rear spring rates are high enough on the Flex coilovers that the rsb adds too much wheel rate. Playing with alignment couldn't dial out the oversteer, and I was getting oversteer mid-corner as well as every time I got on the power. Disconnecting the rsb quieted down the rear for me in both mid-corner and exit.

My setup for a while now has been -1.8 front camber, -2 rear; ~0 toe front, -3 mm rear; TEIN Flex set with ride height such that the front sits a tad lower than the rear (don't recall exact ride height measurements off hand); Whiteline adjustable front sway bar set on soft, no rear sway bar; sticky street tires (usually RT-615s, about to run some RE-01Rs for this spring) in 245/45-17.

Pretty neutral this way on track now on street tires. On r-comps (RA-1s), it was close to neutral with the stock rear bar attached and everything else the same, FWIW.

 

That is me.... now.

I have -2.5 camber front and -2.25 rear. Toe out front and toe in rear (1.5mm and 3mm respectively). Caster I have it on 6, because I like the car to be more reponsive and I found the turn it is pretty **** when I had it on 7.

I also professionally corner balanced. They told me I had the car very low, and it is just a touch lower than stock (I think about 20mm), set by another race tuner. This suspension expert explained to me that the A arm is bending in lower height. That reduces the forces in the suspension.

So I think if you have done everything right, you might have to experiment the ride height. And don't be afraid to increase the height.

 

yes, in the rear

I still can't fathom why anyone runs higher camber in the rear than the front

 

i like hard grippy braking from 140+mph-- but that is a good point.
David at speedsource told me I needed some dynamic shocks/600 lb spring in the front and 400 in the rear--adjustable bar in the front and a modified oem bar in the back. I think i need some money.
olddragger

 

My new setup is

Front:
Camber -2.6
Caster 6.8
Toe 0

Rear:
Camber -2.4
Toe .1

I'm on TEIN FLEX
ride height is 25.5" from front fender to ground, and 25.9" in the rear.

 

pics?

 

Wrong thread for pics.

Thats a pretty aggressive alignment. Is that just for track duty or combined duty? Would be very curious to see how evenly tires wear and to hear how it drives on normal streets.

 

It's my daily driver, tires don't really last long, but that's more my driving than anything else.

 

thread kinda died down a bit, but i thought id refresh it with my noob self!!!

im still have alot to learn about alignments and suspension settings but can any of you guys recommend an alignment for me (track)? just need a starting point. my 8 is also my DD.

im lowered on Tanabe GF210's (1.4 front 1.2 rear, 179lbs front 146lbs rear). and ill be getting wheels 18x9.5 on z1 star specs 275/35.

TIA

 

Dear all

Would appreciate all on my suspension settings....
Currently going for the occasional track day and used as a daily driver
Suspension (Front: 11kg Rear: 4kg)
Camber (Front: 1.5 Rear: 2.5)
Toe (Front: slight toe out Rear:slight toe in)
Castor (Front: 6 deg)
Tyres: 225/45/18 AD07




Thanks in advance for your input
Alan

 

Those are some unusual spring rates. Are you running stock swaybars?