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Alignment settings for street/track use

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Alignment settings for street/track use

Old 10-11-2006, 07:49 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by Sparky
One thing that is different from car to car is the max front camber that is attainable.
And another is minimum camber possible in the rear.
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Old 10-11-2006, 08:45 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by ULLLOSE
One might think it is that easy but shocks, swaybar and tires will also have an effect on how the car works. You got to put the whole package together.
Yep, but two of the elements, tires and shocks, I see pretty clear agreement on (Kumho 245 and Koni SA yellows). The front bar is definitely an area of difference. Also, at the end of the day, what you go fastest with and what I go fastest with, in terms of set up, may be quite different, as well.

But, I think it would be helpful for this "sticky" if we had skid pad data of the standard set up (stock bar, Konis and Kumhos) and a few different alignments. I realize that: (A) this is easier said than done (I went through this experiment with the Z06 at Atwater right after the 2005 Atwater Tour and it was a bunch of work, but helpful), (B) if someone does go to the trouble, they might feel the results are "proprietary" and (C) YMMV, regarding surface, temperature and other variables. Still, it could prove to be useful information...in terms of tire temp changes across their surface, lateral grip measured and wear patterns observed.

Last edited by mwood; 10-11-2006 at 11:18 PM.
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Old 10-11-2006, 08:57 PM
  #103  
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I guess I wasn't being clear. Given 2 cars with otherwise the same setup, the same camber stagger (i.e 0.3 deg more in the rear) should yield similar results even though they might have different maximum front camber readings. Don't have any proof of it, however, it makes sense, and gives you someplace to start. Better than flipping a coin.
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Old 11-26-2006, 01:20 PM
  #104  
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Front Camber -1.6 Left, -1.6 Right
Front Caster 6.6 Left, 6.9 Right
Front Toe 0.03 Left, 0.04 Right
Front Cross Camber 0.0
Front Cross Caster -0.3
Front Total Toe 0.06

Rear Camber -1.8 Left, -1.8 Right
Rear Toe 0.08 Left, 0.08 Right
Rear Total Toe 0.15
Thrust angle 0.00
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Old 11-26-2006, 04:47 PM
  #105  
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^^ Mine was very similar to above

I ran zero toe in the front though....and 1/32 toe in in the rear
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Old 11-26-2006, 05:17 PM
  #106  
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dannobre, mine is a moderate set-up since it is my daily driver. I may participate in 5-8 events a year. At some point I may get more aggressive. Tire wear is a concern for daily use.
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Old 11-26-2006, 08:24 PM
  #107  
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Mine rears wore on the inside on the street with that amount of camber.....and the outsides at the track....worked OK for a compromise as well....
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:16 PM
  #108  
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I just had a successful track day (1st time in the RX8) with the following setup.

Alignment:
-1.2F, -1.4R Camber
6.5 Caster
0 Toe F/R
34psi all around on OEM Dunlops.

Turn in was good, tail end rotated with pedal modulation while trail braking. Car is daily driver.
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Old 04-16-2007, 12:59 AM
  #109  
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Speaking of alignments.

Drooool


I can dream, damn it!
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Old 05-01-2007, 01:03 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by SouthFL
I just had a successful track day (1st time in the RX8) with the following setup.

Alignment:
-1.2F, -1.4R Camber
6.5 Caster
0 Toe F/R
34psi all around on OEM Dunlops.

Turn in was good, tail end rotated with pedal modulation while trail braking. Car is daily driver.
Hey SouthFL, I'm from the 92x forum. Is -1.2F the max for the front camber? Do you have aftermarket swaybars? As much as I want I like to keep it stock and work on the alignments. Maybe what I'll do is take the 8 out on some autoX events and see how it feels before tinkering with the alignment.
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Old 05-01-2007, 01:13 AM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by mwood
So...I've just read 6 pages of a sticky on alignment settings...and have really found zero agreement or even a general consensus (front vs. rear camber differential, in particular) for an autocross application? I guess I'm not reading carefully enough...
Everyone drives differently ... hence there is absolute no agreement. The setting of one person may not work for you. Certainly zero toe will not work for me.

Mine is gone from extreme to more extreme. I now have -2.6 camber front and -2.15 rear. Front toe out slightly to 1mm in total and rear toe in 3mm in total. I have been toeing the rear in to get more stable acceleration.

I brake early but trail brake, and throttle in pretty much 1/3 into the corner, and way before the apex. That is my style and hence I worked out this combo for me.

If you think I should experiment something please let me know.
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Old 05-01-2007, 01:17 AM
  #112  
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BTW the shoulder wearing problem is solved!!!

I went from 8" to 8.5" rim and +40 to +32 offset.

ACE

I still have the same slick 245/40 Bridgestone
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Old 05-01-2007, 07:48 AM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by delhi
Hey SouthFL, I'm from the 92x forum. Is -1.2F the max for the front camber? Do you have aftermarket swaybars? As much as I want I like to keep it stock and work on the alignments. Maybe what I'll do is take the 8 out on some autoX events and see how it feels before tinkering with the alignment.
I'm not sure where the front maxes out on stock hardware (I'm sure the info is available on this site). I'm running on stock everything.
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Old 05-01-2007, 07:54 AM
  #114  
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When mine was stock the front maxed out at -1.25
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Old 05-20-2007, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by takahashi View Post
Everyone drives differently ... hence there is absolute no agreement. The setting of one person may not work for you. Certainly zero toe will not work for me.

Mine is gone from extreme to more extreme. I now have -2.6 camber front and -2.15 rear. Front toe out slightly to 1mm in total and rear toe in 3mm in total. I have been toeing the rear in to get more stable acceleration.

I brake early but trail brake, and throttle in pretty much 1/3 into the corner, and way before the apex. That is my style and hence I worked out this combo for me.

If you think I should experiment something please let me know.
Do you get much oversteer?
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Old 05-20-2007, 09:45 PM
  #116  
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Last track day is semi wet so there will be some oversteer on braking. But once the track is dry, I had the R spec Bridgestone RE55S and they grip ok and the balance shift back to understeer. I tried to make the rear softer to exaggerate the weight shifting to the front around the corner, ... and a bit of trail braking.

I found the car is not as responsive turning in when it is closer to zero. Power out the car is nice and more in the zone (more zap out of the corner), but it feels it can snap power oversteer at anytime.

It is a trade off, but I am happy with the camber setting as the tyre temp across the thread is less than 10 degree C (outside is low 60s and inside is mid to high 60s).
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Old 05-21-2007, 09:51 AM
  #117  
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Just got the KW Variant 3s on the car yesterday, will be getting it aligned/corner balanced tomorrow, thing I'm going to go for around 2.0-2.5 deg in the front and 1.5-2.0 in the rear.

Thoughts?

I'm still a little up in the air about compression and rebound settings, can someone post some shock dynos of their konis, (revalved or externally adj. or otherwise) and let me know what your running so i can compare them to my KW shock dynos?
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Old 05-29-2007, 10:36 PM
  #118  
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Well I know that Drifting is not the most popular topic on this forum, but I entered my first drift day and learned a few things along the way so I thought I would share. I entered the tournament at the end of the day just for more seat time and ended up making it into the top 16 (14th) out of about 40 cars. http://dangin.smugmug.com/gallery/27...144150268-L-LB http://www.everythingdrift.com/index...=127&Itemid=30 I was running Kumho MX's at about 48psi all around and my standard, mild street / auto-x alignment . -1.4 front camber, 0 toe, can't remember caster, -1.6 rear camber, 0 toe rear. RB springs and sways, stock shocks.

The first thing I learned was that the RX8 is a much better grip car than drift car. I guess I knew that, but drifting was a lot more difficult than I expected. I could do a nice four wheel drift on any one corner if I attacked it correctly, but connecting two or more corners was nearly impossible at first, as soon as the car got straight going through the transition it would grip through the next section. I kept getting more aggressive and latter with the transitions, once in a while it would work great and I could connect two corners, other times it would just snap and spin out. About 1/2 way through the day I decided to toe out the rear. I went "2 marks" toe-out on the little factory indicators. I didn't have a way to measure the amount of change track side but visually it was pretty noticeable. It was a huge improvement for drifting or if you prefer a little oversteer. As soon as the weight would transfer from one side to the other it would start the oversteer process. Now I was able to connect the corners allot easier, I never got a perfect run in, but was able to string together about four turns out of six by the end of the day.

I had a great time, didn't destroy any parts and now I want to learn more. The tires have one more drift day left in them and I'm going to try some more alignment changes on June 23rd. This time I will go a little more negative camber in the front, a little closer to 0 camber rear, slight toe-in at front, toe out rear. I'll have to learn how to use the e-brake a little as well. I'll let you know how it turns out.
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Old 06-12-2007, 11:02 PM
  #119  
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Thanks for all the good scoop in this thread. However I have one item that you might be able to solve. When going to try and get my camber maxed, the left was the limiter at -.9. The right front could go all the way out to -1.8. So I am maxing the front camber at -.9 and the caster comes to 4.8. While talking to the guys at speed Inn today, they said that they have seen several RX8's that have this issue, that they think that it is the sub frame alignment. Do any of you have some input into what I can do to fix this save for getting new springs to get more camber?
Currently using
Front:
Camber: L -.9 R -.9
Caster: L 4.8 R 4.8
Toe: .05
Rear:
Camber: L -1.2 R -1.2
Toe: .05
I'm autocrossing the car and drive on the road for fun and to and from events but not daily driver.
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Old 06-12-2007, 11:30 PM
  #120  
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By the way the car has 7800 miles and never damaged, all stock.
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Old 06-13-2007, 08:45 AM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by FRANCES View Post
Do any of you have some input into what I can do to fix this save for getting new springs to get more camber?
I'm autocrossing the car and drive on the road for fun and to and from events but not daily driver.
If you run BS in SCCA autox events, then your only choices are:

1) install some koni SA
2) let the car "settle in" for 10-20k miles or so
3) get a new car

my alignment settings and LF limits are nearly identical to yours although I have no toe all around.

I'm praying that after this season my car will "settle in" (1st aligned at 11k) and I can get a whopping .1 or .2 more front camber. We'll see.

If you don't intend to run stock, then new springs as you already know are the easiest way to get more camber.
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Old 06-13-2007, 09:50 AM
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I only got 0.7, so you're not the only one.
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Old 06-15-2007, 06:30 PM
  #123  
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Stock Autocross Alignment Solution

After three alignments, and exhaustive research of this sites threads (thanks to track head for getting this started so long ago), I believe the best solution for cars that aren't able to get much front camber is to get a second opinion.
I finally found the shop that all the fast guys use locally (Brooks Tire Inc. in Corpus Christi Tx.). Owner came out to look at the car in his Renault/lucky seven F1 shirt so I knew things were looking good. From there I explained I wanted to max out the front camber, and reply was, are you autocrossing and doing time trials?
Long story short, the alignment tech had me sit in the car for maximum accuracy, and explained the RX8 was a lot like Porsches he works on regularly (It was the local porsche club that put me in the right direction at a local time trail event).
Previously I could only get -.7 from the first shop, not sit in car or go to the back. second shop, -.9 was most and could go in back not sit in car. Now, -1.2 left was the max, big difference. And why do you say that is?
First, better equipment, it has been calibrated within two weeks.
Second, tech know how to max the adjusters, he showed me how guys that don't work on sports cars won't understand the adjusters.
Finally, he ensured the ride height and suspension was evenly loaded, then put me in the car.
It looks to me that the most anyone is getting is -1.2 camber from the front left, and that is I believe what it should be. Like dealing with doctors, always get a second, and third opinion before giving up and admitting defeat.
Thanks again to all the guys that wrote in, all your input was useful in my learning curve into getting the most from this beast at the track. Now just one week away to next event.
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Old 06-16-2007, 08:12 PM
  #124  
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Anyone within driving distance of Atlanta should go to Gran Tourismo East (www.granturismoeast.com) as they are the best in town and are very familiar with RX8s having aligned many over the past 3 years.

Last edited by TrackAddict; 06-16-2007 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:08 AM
  #125  
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So Frances, you said the tech explained to you how to work the adjusters, what exactly did he do different than the guys before him?
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