hydro locked engine/ need new engine asap
05-12-2010, 06:11 PM
#51
120,000+ miles tick tock
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05-12-2010, 10:30 PM
#53
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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I took 6 rotary core blocks stacked in the passenger floorboard and hatch area of a beater FC to middle NC once. It was an interesting ride through the TN/NC mountain pass on I40, but was not that big a deal to be 1100 extra pounds.
05-14-2010, 07:11 PM
#54
120,000+ miles tick tock
Thread Starter
rotary resurrection sorry bro but mazda only charged me (insurance company) 2650.00 for a brand new engine because they keep the old one for a core. i tried tho .....almost had him talked into it until he talked the the tech doin the job......but good news is if i can get a stock air box he said i have a 100000 mile waranty on this new engine
05-14-2010, 07:24 PM
#55
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rotary resurrection sorry bro but mazda only charged me (insurance company) 2650.00 for a brand new engine because they keep the old one for a core. i tried tho .....almost had him talked into it until he talked the the tech doin the job......but good news is if i can get a stock air box he said i have a 100000 mile waranty on this new engine
05-14-2010, 07:29 PM
#56
120,000+ miles tick tock
Thread Starter
on the same page RIWWP iv already requested it from the service adviser, but i will not pay until i receive it on written company letterhead.......off the subject, doen anybody know if we have a thread about pros and cons of removing cats on our cars and if we should run open look when we do so , or does anybody know off hand....i found plenty about removing the cat just none about weather or not to unplug the o2 sensors or what...i have no idea about this subject ... just random thought i guess lol
Last edited by FoxRacer600RR; 05-14-2010 at 07:50 PM.
05-14-2010, 08:15 PM
#57
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Pretty simple really:
Pros: Less restriction means more power, more heat removed from the engine, you can't get additional issues from your cat failing.
Cons: Can't pass smog tests, have to have an AP or something else to block the CEL to pass ODB2 emissions, can get a ticket for it
I didn't classify the smell into either category, because that depends on who you are
Some people get addicted to it and love it, others hate it.
O2 sensors still need to be plugged in, even on a midpipe. You can run without them, but it won't be as smooth or efficient.
Pros: Less restriction means more power, more heat removed from the engine, you can't get additional issues from your cat failing.
Cons: Can't pass smog tests, have to have an AP or something else to block the CEL to pass ODB2 emissions, can get a ticket for it
I didn't classify the smell into either category, because that depends on who you are
Some people get addicted to it and love it, others hate it.O2 sensors still need to be plugged in, even on a midpipe. You can run without them, but it won't be as smooth or efficient.
05-14-2010, 08:25 PM
#58
120,000+ miles tick tock
Thread Starter
That's pretty much what i was wondering , because from what i do kno i was thinking since the second o2 sensor will "think" the cat isn't working and it sensing the same reading as the front that it would cut the fuel back a bit and this is only coming from what somebody told me about if you take ur second o2 out and still have it pluged into the wire(with hole pluged) that it wold read "clean air"and would dump more fuel...but he isnt a pro or anything but he seems to kno a lil more than i do .....so i just took whayt he said and thought about it theoretically in reverse ...btw i could be absolutely wrong buuutt thats why im asking lol
05-14-2010, 08:38 PM
#59
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The A/F ratio is affected by the front O2 sensor, the rear is comparing front to rear checking for emissions reduction. You can remove the rear without much of an issue I think, removing the front is what will make your AFRs a bit wacked.
05-14-2010, 08:44 PM
#60
120,000+ miles tick tock
Thread Starter
thanks , that pretty much answers it for me... dont want this thread to go completely off subject because of me lol but il get back to you guys with a update when i get the new engine and btw i may have a AEM CAI for sale or for trade for a stock box and a lil cash, i just not sure what a stock air box is worth. im going to try and keep my warranty
05-15-2010, 07:15 AM
#61
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thanks , that pretty much answers it for me... dont want this thread to go completely off subject because of me lol but il get back to you guys with a update when i get the new engine and btw i may have a AEM CAI for sale or for trade for a stock box and a lil cash, i just not sure what a stock air box is worth. im going to try and keep my warranty
06-02-2010, 06:41 PM
#63
06-02-2010, 07:37 PM
#66
120,000+ miles tick tock
Thread Starter
lol well i dont even really know what im looking at lol , it just looked pretty caked up on the right one. i just learned today how exactal how the intake system worked......plus the tech at daytona mazda showed it to me and told me i need to use 93 every time i fill up and i told him that ever since i have owned the car it has had nothing but 93 or higher......thats one reason i felt like it was caked up bad
Last edited by FoxRacer600RR; 06-02-2010 at 07:39 PM.
06-02-2010, 10:28 PM
#67
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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The grade of fuel you use has nothing to do with carbon buildup in the intake...but yes, for other reasons, feed it 93. Those intake valves look fine...light to average buildup.
06-03-2010, 02:49 AM
#70
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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I doubt it. I've only seen a few cases of true carbon lock/failure in rotaries before. Where there is so much carbon on the rotor faces that the rotors can no longer turn in the chambers without rubbing. Prior to that, all carbon can do is gum up the rotor seals and keep them from moving as freely as they should, which reduces some compression and makes the engine weaker.
From what I gathered, your engine was taken out of service due to low/weak compression, but no real failure or lockup? I bet you had a lot of side seal clearance and apex seals with more wear in the center than the edges...all of which result in weaker compression.
I dont really consider such cases "failure" since it is not catastrophic and the engine will still run if coerced. I just consider them "weak" or "well worn".
I consider a bad coolant seal engine that overheats, or a broken apex seal, or bad bearings etc, a locked up engine, or something similar to be a 'failure" because the engine can no longer be started and driven normally.
From what I gathered, your engine was taken out of service due to low/weak compression, but no real failure or lockup? I bet you had a lot of side seal clearance and apex seals with more wear in the center than the edges...all of which result in weaker compression.
I dont really consider such cases "failure" since it is not catastrophic and the engine will still run if coerced. I just consider them "weak" or "well worn".
I consider a bad coolant seal engine that overheats, or a broken apex seal, or bad bearings etc, a locked up engine, or something similar to be a 'failure" because the engine can no longer be started and driven normally.
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