ok im thinking about doing a engine swap for a LS1 money isnt really a issue but im also wanting to look for the right prices i have someone who will do it for me i know the engine itself will cost around 4,000+ but what else would i need to buy in order for this process to work...
if u could pm me be great
thanks

 

This may be the first question beyond the reach of this thread.

 

Actually, I think this question is probably more in line with the thread's intention than most here...

The short, and nice, answer is that ZERO shops that can do this kind of swap advertise for it. None. Period. End of story.

As far as what you need to buy:
- Engine
- stronger and compatible transmission
- stronger rear end
- stronger rear axles
- custom created driveshaft to the measurements in your car
- ECU to run the engine
- Several thousand feet of wiring
- An entirely new front subframe
- gauge cluster that works with the ECU
- a steering rack that you can get to work (stock one won't be able to fit there any more)
- entirely custom created cooling system for the coolant
- entirely custom created cooling system for the oil
- Completely custom exhaust built on your car after the engine is installed
- lots and lots of fabrication work by SKILLED fabricators to modify every single structural part of the engine bay
- lots of labor by someone that knows what they are doing with electrical work to re-wire every part of the car into the new ECU
- If you want AC, your AC will have to be completely custom


Literally nothing in the engine bay that is there in a stock RX-8 can stay where it is with such a swap. Including things like re-locating the brake master cylinder, which means re-running hardlines for the brakes.


Set aside about $25,000 to start, and expect to need another $10,000 to $20,000 more. Expect to not have your car for a minimum of a year. Expect that the best price you can get won't be able to finish within a year and will have stuff wrong and jacked up. Expect that the 2nd best price isn't any better. Expect that the highest price you are quoted is probably from the only shop that can actually complete it, and for more than they quoted you.

Expect that once the engine is swapped, you will need to replace the suspension, wheels, and brakes to deal with the difference in the weight balance and dramatically different torque dynamics.

 

I always thought that swapping a Rotary with a V8 was kinda sacrilegious...that kinda cements it right there lol.

I have another question for this thread, one that;s been in my mind since I bought the 8.

When at idle, I'll hear this audible "click" every 5 seconds or so. Like a solenoid clicking on and off. Is that the OMP? I can't figure out what it is. I'm sure it's a sound that is supposed to be there since everything else sounds fine.

 

^ Are you sure it's not your a/c compressor cycling on and off?

 

Fan relay triggering, dropping temps, then shutting off till it climbs again. Normal

 

nah, it was happening when the AC was off. sounded totally different.

ah so it's the fans then. I wasn't sure if it was a solenoid triggering a pump or something.
I was 99% sure it was something normal, it was just driving me nuts trying to figure out what it was though.

thanks

 

That being said, it has been done


Great answer though

 

Yup, it has.

It's one of those things where the people that ask about where to start, what parts to buy, who can do it, etc... are the people that never will.

 

Will this rear diffuser fit on a series II 09 RX8 R3?



I think it looks better than the OEM rear R3 which seems to not go down as low?

 

A reputable vender on here informed me that exhaust manifold design controls turbo spool and effective rpm range.

Isn't spool rpm effective by turbo size, snail design etc, basically turbo characteristics, how would and exhaust manifold style aka 3-1 vs log effect turbo spool. Doesn't make sense?

 

Unorigionalusername, with enough money, anything can fit. However, the particular diffuser in question is the MasdaSpeed for the series 1 rx8. It will not fit without quite a bit of modification.

 

Given that exhaust flow is what drives the turbine, and exhaust flow is dynamically changed by what the turbine is shoving into the engine, would would believe that yes, the exhaust manifold design can matter. More specifically, if you can imagine a manifold design that makes it worse, then there is clearly also a "better" design than that

I don't know enough to make even a guess as to what design properties matter. Well, just one guess: minimum inner diameter.

 

I feel I must rephrase my question then, I can see how the manifold design would effective the initial spool rpm vary it higher or lower depending on the efficiency of said manifold. But how would the manifold effect the top end range of a turbo? Or the general range of operation threw the rpm's with except for the varying initial spool rev.

I may be wrong here but isn't top level turbo characteristics really reliant upon a efficient intercooler setup and the ability to cool the intake air before you just start blowing hot air. And the ratio and size of the turbo.

 

There is still the backpressure, energy differential, flow rate, etc...

For example (just to point out a more obvious case) a turbo rated for 300whp stuck onto a manifold that has a narrowing of the exhaust neck down to 1 inch inner diameter. Vs the same turbo on a manifold with a 3 inch inner diameter at the narrowest point. I entirely believe that there is a big difference between the two in what kind of max power you can produce, since more power means more exhaust flow, and if you constrict it too far, it will hurt the power.

Once you have even 1 factor in the design that can change the dynamics and peak power, it isn't much of a stretch to see that every, or nearly every, factor of manifold design can play a role in where your power band is and how much power you make where. For example, a log manifold vs a tubular one. N/A the tubular one will win nearly every time, especially when the tubular is tuned to appropriately use scavenging. Do you have to give up this effect entirely when turboing? Nope. Log style are more common, but there are tubular turbo manifolds out there as well.

I found this on a quick google search: Log style vs tubular style | Turbobygarrett

 

Yes I have read that, and there are some great key points in there but Unfortunatly after page 2 it turns into a giant ego war like most threads and there are no supporting documents to back most is what is said in there. So it seems more here say than anything else.

All of this came about when I started digging into the turblown kit as it seems like a great kit but I am not about to disregard my OMP an go to pre-mix only so I was talking with Elliot at turblown an he said a log manifold can be made and used with the kit, but you will lose power at higher rpm and spool time will not be as fast, I know Esmeril uses the log manifold with a T4 turbo and from dyno comparisons you can see in higher rpm it does taper off compared to the tubular manifold and the gt35r turbo. It is also apparent that the turblown kit makes signifacant power faster as well, hmmm seems ive answered a few of my own questions

Just dont think i am ready to give up my OMP and go to 100% pre-mix, nothing but horror stories that i have seen so far. so basically retain OMP, less effiecent kit or delete OMP and go ***** out and kill my motor. :

 

I know between 0 and 1K, there are only 3 hash marks.

Is the space between 0 and the first has mark supposed to be 500 RPM (so there is no mark for 250)and the then the marks for 750 to 1000?

That's my understanding but not sure.

 

Yes, it reads 0,500,750,1000

Then increases in 250 increments after 1000.

 

would these tires/wheels fit an 06 grand touring RX8?

Blizzak Snow Tires on 4 X 100 Miata Wheels

They are for a 99 miata. This dude lives so close to me to, think it would be a good deal. Obviously going from 18' rims to 15 would be a huge difference, but its winter tires so who cares right? would it mess up ground clearance?

 

No. I don't even have to click the link.

1) NA and NB Miata wheels have a lug pattern of 4x100, which means 4 lugs at a width of 100 (mm I think). All RX-8s have a lug pattern of 5x114.3, 5 lugs. Zero chance of compatibility without making custom hubs. NC (2006+) Miatas have the same hubs that we do, and are cross compatible with wheels.

2) The smallest wheel that will fit on an RX-8 with the sport suspension (all Touring, all GTs, all Shinkas, All 40ths, all manual transmissions, and all 2009+) is 17". 16" will not clear the brake calipers. The base model AT that did not have the sport package added can take 16s, and MAYBE 15s, but I doubt it.

 

damn, thanks for awaring me godfather. I'm hitting up craigslist to see what falls out. Is our bolt pattern rare? Or would similar cars like 350z rims, sc430 rims etc, fit ours?

 

No, not really rare. Pretty much all Mazdas from 2006 onward and some prior have it, most Nissans/Infinities in the same year range, some others out there.

If you are looking for cheap rims, just look for 17" OEM stock wheels on other Mazda forums that are being sold. Will always fit, usually cheap due to how many of them they are, and looks are rarely bad.

 

I recently purchased a 2004 Rx8 about a year ago now and its just been a dream up until lately... I was driving it just fine one night, parked it in the garage, go to start it the next day and my starter doesn't engage the flywheel. At first i assumed it was my whole starter so i replaced it and i had the same issues. took both starters in to find out they are fine. realized that it could possibly be the control wire that connects to the starter, but i'm having issues locating where that connects to to try and fix my problem.

 

The starter's nose gear extends to engage the flywheel when the starter gets power. The only thing shared from one starter to the next is the power supply. So if the starters test out fine, then it's another problem.

There are numerous problems that you can have that will give you a hard time starting your 8. Can you detail the symptoms, what happens, and what doesn't happen? It sounds like something other than your starter...

 

Does your security light flash when you put in the key?