Nope, cable driven like the S1.

CABLE LEFT (L), R. - PARK. PARKING BRAKE SYSTEM. Mazda RX-8 (2009 - 2011) # F18944420

 

Do you have a six speed, five speed, or AT? If an AT, are you manually shifting? Does it make the noise at 3K and 4K RPMs when you've got it in neutral and it's parked? If a manual transmission, at 3K RPMs in 3rd gear and 4K RPMs in 4th gear with the clutch in and parked? If you drive it and run it up to 3K RPMs in 2nd gear, and 4K RPMs in 3rd gear does it make the noise? Where does the sound seem to come from (run it with and without windows open)? Also, with and without the air conditioner on?

 

Im set on buying a 6 speed 2005 rx8 but the one I am looking at has a o2 sensor on.. I don't believe there is an actual problem with the oxygen emission but if there were it would only cost me $50 or less to fix.. but what im wondering is with the o2 sensor being on and may need to be fixed is this a huge problem??

also I live in Michigan and we get very harsh winters, I would not like to drive the rx8 in the winter but there is a possibility I will need to... so how exactly would it handle in the winter and up hills in the winter with a good pair of snow tires?


if some people could help me out please ?

 

Ilikepeanutbutter, I live in PA and have only had to drive the 8 a few times in the snow. When i did though, with good snow tires i didn't really have any issue's.

Before you purchase ANY RX8 i would suggest that you read through this. https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

Can you explain a bit, what exactly you mean by "the O2sensor is on"? Do you have a specific code?

Also another important thing to remember is ALWAYS have a compression test completed BEFORE purchase.

 

Do NOT let the dealer fool you into any fix. Any lights that are on need to be fixed before you pull the trigger. Could be the sensor, or it could be the whole cat system, or it could be the fuel system is fucked and the apex seals are toast.

Definitely listen to Willard on this one. Compression test it, and know what you are getting into. Catalytic converters are not cheap to fix, IF you can find someone to do it for you. It is a federal law to screw with them. Also make sure you have one on there. Not having one could trigger the light too.

Also get the Carfax and see how many times the car has been to Auction and where. When multiple dealers dumps a car fast, they usually have a reason.

 

6 Speed, I haven't noticed it in neutral, and yesterday it happened at ~4.5k RPM in 4th, so the numbers may not be significant. I DID notice, however, that it only happens when the AC is on... So it must be a part of that. Sounds like it's coming from the front right, right in front of the glove.

 

Originally Posted by 1337haXXor
Ok, so interesting issue.
About 2-5 times per ~15 minute drive, there is a difficult to describe sound (like a hissing and a rattling, but very low profile. Not "rattling" rattling, almost like a rhythmic hissing) at specific times:
After being under 3k RPM for ~1 minute, EXACTLY when I hit 3k RPM in 3rd gear (30MPH), the sound starts, lasts for 3-5 seconds NO MATTER WHAT (slowing down, speeding up, changing gear really quickly, shifting into Neutral, and with any of these, the "rhythm" of the sound stays the same), and then goes away. There is no noticeable performance or voltage (I have an OBDII).
3 or 4 times it happened at 4k RPM in 4th (50-something MPH).

Any ideas?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rx8 Dave
Do you have a six speed, five speed, or AT? If an AT, are you manually shifting? Does it make the noise at 3K and 4K RPMs when you've got it in neutral and it's parked? If a manual transmission, at 3K RPMs in 3rd gear and 4K RPMs in 4th gear with the clutch in and parked? If you drive it and run it up to 3K RPMs in 2nd gear, and 4K RPMs in 3rd gear does it make the noise? Where does the sound seem to come from (run it with and without windows open)? Also, with and without the air conditioner on?

Geez, I'm somewhat at a loss. The SSV (SSV: Secondary Shutter Valve / Secondary Side Valve) is on the left and opens at 3750 RPM, but it doesn't sound like it's the SSV or its actuator especially since the sound happens at times and only happens with the A/C on. The air pump is on the passenger side, but it only pumps air into the catalytic converter when the engine is cold.

Since the sound is coming from the glove box side of your car when the A/C is on, I'm wondering if this is an A/C related noise. While the A/C compressor is on the driver's side, the refrigerant lines enter the firewall at, the high compression line is on, and the blower unit is on, the passenger/glove box side, with the A/C unit in the center a bit toward the glove box (see Attached Thumbnail). The A/C passenger compartment air filter is behind the glove box.

You might want to check a shop manual (for example, M A Z D A). In that manual, for A/C go to http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar..._S01_0651.html then tap on "No. 9 Noise While Operating A/C System" to see if anything seems applicable. Also, while you're at it, check your cabin air filter, which needs to be replaced periodically
Good luck. Maybe some others will chime in with other ideas. (hint, hint) Anyway, let us know how you're progressing with this problem.

 

I am selling my 2005 8 with 42000 miles on it. Looking at a 2011 with 10,000 miles

So, car just had new coilks, wires, plugs at 42,000. Cooling system was serviced at 35,000 miles.

Father and son come over to check out the car and we go for a nice drive. Kid was mostly in third and forth doing around 60. Had the ac on. I am in the passenger side, so can't see the guages.

We pull into my driveway and let the car run while we are talking about the car when I smell hot coolant. Temp guage is up but not all the way to H.

Turn the car off and see steam excaping from the overflow.

Let the car cool off, check the coolkant level (still in the full area). Start the car and it starts normally. Istill showing middle of the temp gauge and I don't hear any fans running.

I will get the codes checked, but no warning lights are on.

This group has always been helpful, so I would appreciate your thoughts. The car has never gone past mid guage on me in the past and it gets driven aggressively periodically.

I know I need to check the fuses for the fans, but I would appreciate any thoughts on other possible things it may be. It will go in to the shop on Monday to be on the safe side.

BTW. Car ran perfectly after the points, plugs and coil replacement about 150 miles back, but could it be I got plugs or wires wrong?

 

Here is an update. Found the fan fuse blown. Code reader is showing everything good. In reading on this web. Others have recommended going to a 50 amp fuse for the fans. I picked up a 40 and a 50. Anyone feel using the 50 is not a good idea?.

Fans came on and I drove the car aggressively with the ac on. Temp did not get to middle

 

[QUOTE=catchb52;4610630]Here is an update. Found the fan fuse blown. Code reader is showing everything good. In reading on this web. Others have recommended going to a 50 amp fuse for the fans. I picked up a 40 and a 50. Anyone feel using the 50 is not a good idea?.
May have the answer on why the fuse blew. Read a post that says when you put the air box back in, you can dislodge a grommet that can fall into the fan. I did remove the air box when I did the tuneup. Will pull it tomorrow and see if the fan on that side is free.

 

[QUOTE=catchb52;4610636]Yeah, that happened last time I did mine, but luckily I noticed it. I was able to get it out with one of those claw grabber thingys.
I thought about glueing them in place next time, don't know if it'll work, but I'll try it anyway.
I dropped a battery hold down too, that was a pita.
I don't know about the fuse size.

 

I've had that before. It sounds like a cross between a squeaking and a hissing.

It was the AC belt squeaking. (the AC compressor turns on and off as it's needed to keep the air coming in cool, so you probably keep hearing it when it's on) I found that it sounds like it's coming from the passenger side when you are driving, and it sounds like it's coming from the drivers side when you are in the passenger seat. I think this is because it's actually right in the middle of the car.

Getting a new belt will stop it, but it's not exactly an issue if you belt is visually fine, so if it doesn't really bother you there is nothing you need to do.

 

My previous cite -http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/esicont/en/srvc/html/node_S01_0651.html includes the diagnostic re: the belt (actually you can go directly to it at NO.9 NOISE WHILE OPERATING A/C SYSTEM). In any event, if it's the belt, and it's in good shape, I would still check the belt tension. A belt that is improperly tensioned can cause problems.

 

So I've been doing my fair share of research about rotary engines and the RX-8 lately because I'm looking to purchase a new car. I took an '05 for a test drive today and I really liked the way it drove and it was in great shape, but there was one issue that concerned me. When the car would come to a stop it idled pretty hard, and the car would shake rather hard. Anyone know if this is a serious issue or what might be causing this?

The CEL was on while I drove it, but the dealer said that he has the parts on order to take care of that...I don't know if that's related to the shaking issue.

Thanks!!

 

Car is running "abnormally hot" for the given air temp... started happening today. Peaked at like 212. While driving tonight was around 208 and it was like 75 out. It usually stays around 190 at that air temp... Thoughts? I was not using AC or anything. Car seemed to idle a little rougher as well. Strangely, when it was 90 outside earlier I was getting the same temps... I think I'm going to buy an aluminum radiator. These temps scare me. Until then, Im going to put foam in the gaps around the rad to get that airflow... I read through the forums and read some suggestions, but I wanted to post my situation.

 

Two questions!

I just got my car, and I only have one key. Is the only option for getting another chipped one going to Mazda?

Also, what's the deal with the RX8performance vendor guy?

 

AFAIK, the only way to get a second chipped key and program it is thru the dealer.
Once you have TWO, you can buy and cut copies, and program them your own self, but you are SOL if you only have one.

Not qualified to answer your second Q....

 

Shaking could be bad motor mounts.
Ask the dealer for a printout of the scan they got for the CEL to determine what parts are needed.
If it's a Mazda dealer, ask for a compression test, if not, ask them if they could get a rotary specific test done.
Read the new owner stickies.
Good luck!

 

I trust you've seen the thread at https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...c-42322/page9/ especially comment #220 by ASH8 where he has a checklist. I've seen folks running 206º with waterless coolant. I think good is 180º cruising, 195º traffic, with water / coolant; but I've seen some have up to 210º without them worrying. However, I agree with you on the 212º reading - 212º is the boiling point of water and, even in a closed system and with coolant, that seems high to me and flirting with steam pockets in the cooling jackets. If you haven't considered this - you may have a blockage or partial blockage somewhere, and you may just need a good flush. Also, if you're running water / coolant check your mixture and consider adding a water wetter like Red Line Waterwetter (Red Line Synthetic Oil - WaterWetter® Coolant Additives).

アメリカ合衆国で行われました。

 

I have always heard, and read on this forum, that Peak Long Life antifreeze/coolant is just fine for the 8 and, being glycol, is equivalent to FL-22.

Since FL-22 was largely recommended because of the silicone sealant in the engine that is exposed to the coolant, does it still hold true today that the Peak Long Life has equivalent silicone sealant protection properties of FL-22 and is, otherwise, the same?

Thanks

 

should I use air conditioning? Is it like brings air through coolant that is used for engine cooling? Will it creat a possibility to overload the cooling system?

 

Waylon;

I think the best thing to do here is to check out this link to learn more about how the air conditioning system in cars work:

HowStuffWorks "How Automotive Air Conditioning Works"

Does it increase the engine load? Yes, Enough to harm the engine? No

 

Is this a real question?

 

Looks like a real question to me. I'd say English is not Waylon's first language, so we need to be flexible about grammar.

Waylon - when AC is running, air passes through the condenser, which is in front of the radiator. The radiator thus has hotter air flowing into it, so engine cooling is taxed more than if AC were not on. AC consumes engine power, so that also adds to the heat load.

But as long as you're not overheating, go ahead and use the AC.

Ken

 

I was wondering if anyone knew of custom modification shops for mechanical, interior, and exterior modifications of the vehicle? I wanted to get a custom exhaust system and racing headers and possibly either a 3 rotor install, or a sequential rally transmission on my 2 rotor. I can't find racing headers anywhere, all the places who do 3 rotor installs USED to do 3 rotor installs, and nobody has any experience with rx8's and sequential shifting.

The only headers I've found are from like RacingBeat or some other mainstream producer. I'm looking for something that is lightweight, stainless steal, and designed specifically for competition. I don't care about flashy hotness. I will be heat rapping the pipes and nobody can see inside the engine bay on a race track anyway.

Other than that, can someone recommend me a great set of suspension for the rx8 to be more competitive, but still capable of being used on the street? I'm not looking to slam the car, just something like a solid suspension and sway bar set up. My stock suspension has started to affect my body roll and I'm looking to upgrade.

For now, please consider money abundant to answer the above. I know much of the stuff I am asking for is expensive and it won't be purchased all at one time.