Shinka_MJR

before you begin your assassination attempts on your engine, take into account not the fact that your car is an 04 and this is 2012 (alluding to the 8 year extended) but find out your car's actual BIRTHDAY. because the dealership will guaranteed judge YOUR PERSONAL 8 YEARS to terminate on that car's birthday. So if you blow the engine on day # 8 x 367 (adjust for leap years as necessary, etc), you're fuggered three ways east of Tuesday with a rusty railroad spike turned sideways. The 8 years extended wont take you to Dec 31, 2012. nonono my friend. it will take you to the 8th year birthday of your car. So you could 14 other members in your car club, all with 04's and 13 of them could have a car's born on date of dec 30, 2004 and if yours is Jan 1 2004, you are no longer covered and they still are... even though all 14 of you have 2004 models.

word of the wise: dont try to beat the system until you know how to play the game.

as for ways to beat up your engine... best i can think of is to start the car and redline the bitch while the engine is still cold until the engine goes bang! Keep in mind, this may cause other things to go bang which are not compression failure related.

good luck!

itachi1

Ok about the car birthday I really don't understand much but I did call and they told me my car is still under warranty until June 26 and that it still covers the engine core and clutch pedal.

Now about the word of the wise, that's why I'm here to learn how to play it

and about beating my engine I really don't want to do that and if at the end it would cost me more to repair other damages...?


so I still question if my car needs to fail something else other than a low compression is able to get a new engine... if not then I guess I'll just change the old spark plugs back in and run with that to see if that could get me a new engine...?

but thanks Shinka :-)

fio07

iTrader: (1)

Just take her in for a compression test. You will probably fail compression since you've had to replace parts. If they do tell you you're getting a new engine you have 3-5 days to put all your old parts back on your engine because they probably dont have an engine in stock and will have to wait a few days for one to come in. Plus the warranty does cover the compression test cost just like RIWWP stated; I haven't paid a penny. You have nothing to lose, except some gas money.

Motomouse

iTrader: (1)

are you sure the compression test is covered ?? I thought some have to pay like 120$ to do it

Tamas

iTrader: (1)

If the test fails, they will not (or are not supposed to) make you pay for it nor for the engine replacement.
However if it doesn't, then you have to pay for the test.

fio07

iTrader: (1)

True that Tamas. Mine was covered by warranty. I had a full wallet of cash leaving the dealership that i thought would be empty.. So I went shopping instead lol

itachi1

Sweet, now that is some awesome news... So the only way I will lose is if everything is ok with the compression test. By they way the lady told me the test runs about $230. So I'll keep my fingers cross. Thanks guys.

Vantana

Hello, I've bought my rx8 last week and I love it. Mine is 2004 model and it has 81000 miles. Just wondering if that's makes it still under warranty ?!

Thxx

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Well, you are clearly within the 100,000 mile mark. However, find out the date that it was first sold, add 8 years to see if you are still within the 8yr mark.

Many 2004s were sold in 2003, and some weren't sold till 2005. There is a nearly 2 year span of time in which 2004 warranties are expiring.



Better yet, call Mazda North America and give them the VIN, in case a prior owner voided the warranty and you actually don't have one at all!

itachi1

Ok so I took my car in this morning and the guy look like he goes by the rules and there is no messing around with him. So I didn't want to tell him I wanted a new engine. So he pull me up inside and asked me why I was doing the compression test and what brings me in today? I told him because I felt lose of power and it was hard to start and to check the clutch pedal because it squeaks so he told me the pedal was still under warranty and that it looks like I was still under warranty for the engine core but not an engine???? is there a difference here am I missing something? I went back to see some old threads and search on it but I couldn't find a clear answer??? so they haven't call me back yet with the results so still waiting but I don't get about the engine and engine core??? can someone explain the difference please?


Update:

ok they call me and told me the car has low compression and they are going to call and get the engine approved but he asked for receipts or proof of maintance? Now I've only had the car for 3 months and I spoke to the previous owner and he said he took the car to a jiffy lube and they just change the name to Valvoline and he is going to check tomorrow morning if they keep records? because he said he only has a few receipts of when he took it in for maintance... would this be a problem if i dont have any back up of the maintance????

Update #2:
Ok so they called me and they told me the engine is cover and not to worry about the maintance receipts or records. But he told me that the car might need other parts to be changed while changing the engine and that i would have to pay for that out of my own wallet that i'm looking around $600 to $1000 depending of what the car needs??? Did anyone had to pay for those extra parts??? I'll be picking up the car tomorrow afternoon and they will call me by next week when the engine arrives. Please let me know so i wont keep my mouth shut when they try to screw me over for extra parts....

feloracing26

You do have to pony up for the extra parts but you don't have to buy them at the dealership. Ask the shop manager that you will be getting the needed OEM parts yourself and have them ready by the time the motor arrives.

They shouldn't charge you to install them as they are going to rip out the motor anyways which it was my case.

I bought my extra parts online from Mazda Rosenthal down in Virginia. Coils, Plugs, belts etc and had them hand deliver myself to the shop manager for the work to be performed free of charge.

Hope this helps !

itachi1

This sounds great thank you!!! I will ask the guy what parts I need then. He really didn't want to tell me what parts needed to be change he said it depends what the car needed so I will double check that they are not charging me to install the rest of the parts since they are installing the engine.

fio07

iTrader: (1)

This would be the perfect time to buy a bhr ignition and RR motor mounts

fyrious<>

wow. after reading this thread, i really hope all of you getting new engines take care of them. I read posts about, "oh i got my new engine and its revs alot faster!", please tell me you are doing the break in period and are now premixing, allowing the vehicle to warm up before harsh driving, and take all of the other information on this site to heart and following it like the bible. Otherwise expect your NEW engine to be garbage again and also be out of warranty -up $hit creek without a paddle. I am also getting a new engine, but have had mine for a long time before it dying out on me... But i'm also taking all information on this site to heart. Premixing, synthetic oil, new rad/ hoses, ignition coil upgrade, etc, anything to help prolong the life of the engine. Please read the other tech sections and do as it says!

itachi1

Since I'm thinking of taking my own parts what brand or website do you recommend to buy the parts from? The guy from the dealer told me that when the engine gets here next week they can make a list of the things it will need so just wondering what i will need since the guy told me earlier to be prepare to pay from 1,000 to 1,500 on parts that i might need but i guess that would be dealer parts so i just want to take care of this car and make sure it gets good stuff... But i dont want to spend over $1000??? A little help if anyone can point me to the right direction?

95FXSTC

When I got my engine replaced the mechanic explained that the oil metering valves have to be replaced at a cost of $360. That made sense and seemed reasonable to me. Those are the only parts he said I would have to pay for. He recommended that I change the coils and plugs, which I had planned to do anyway. I brought in my own parts with no hassle at all. The plugs were $20 each at Autozone and I think the coils were $40 each, much cheaper than dealer cost. I agree it would be a good time to upgrade to the BHR coils if you have the time but only took the dealer 3 days to get my new engine, you can always upgrade later.

As others have said, I hope everyone learns everything they can about these engines from this site and applies that knowledge. I truly believe a large percentage of these engine failures are due to lack of proper maintenance and care, including the previous owner of mine. People look at me funny everytime I rev the engine for 10 seconds prior to shutting down but I have yet to have flooding or even a slow start. Good luck everyone and hope you enjoy your RX-8 as much as I do mine.

fio07

iTrader: (1)

If your engine is warmed up and your maintenance is up to date and you have a good ignition system theres no need to rev it before you shut it off. if thats what works for you so be it but i've been driving my 8 for two years never revving it before shutting it off.
just a couple weeks ago i had a flood which i deflooded in about 30 min, took to dealer and thus new engine on the way. Also I am the third owner, when i got the car it smelled like smoke and was not taken care of at all.. I'm pretty sure i have been running on low compression since I got it.
As for cheap parts on the RX8: you get what you pay for keep that in mind.

GaryBuster

113k miles and the apex seals just failed... damn.

95FXSTC

Anybody that owns an RX-8, especially 2004-2005, that hasn't had a compression check is foolish. Why, especially with all the info here, would you not get checked and potentially a new motor? I find and buy RX-8's regularly that are under warranty and get new engines. My Mazda mechanic loves me and knows what I am there for. I end up with a new motor everytime, it's just a matter of asking the right questions. I benefit from all the people that don't understand this car or how to drive it.

Boeing Boy

What Mazda dealership do you recommend to get the test and engine replacement?

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

That question can be best answered by reading and searching the Canadian regional forum.

Calmstorm

Do share, please. Some of us have little time left, and knowing the right questions would be fabulously helpful.

Haard 8

I received my new eng. do to low compression. I have the 2005 with 96k.

itachi1

I called to schedule an appointment and asked for a compression test and they told me if I felt loss of power and I said no and she told me to hold on that she was going to check with a Tech and when she got back on the phone she said the techs don't recommend compression test if I didn't felt a loss of power and I told her that I had problems starting the car like long cranking and that I did felt a little loss of power with time so they scheduled me. Mind you I only had 4 months with my car so I wouldn't had felt the loss of power since I used to drive a 94 Honda civic so obviously I felt like if I was flying in my 8. :-)

After taking the car in they called me back and told me there was a loss of power and that they would be ordering my new engine. So I got mine and I'm enjoying it but not after my car going through 3 engines... they order one after another after another because there was something wrong with the engine that it wasn't marking the oil pressure correctly so I was without my car for about a month but after 2 weeks I complained and they rented me a car so well worth the wait. :-)

So just schedule a compression test and tell them you feel a loss of power and cross your fingers :-)

exarkun

Getting my engine replaced. The engine went belly up and first thing they tested was the compression.
I only had 2 weeks left on warranty!