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Thanks man! Hope everyone can be patient, won't be any serious updates for a while still. The Renesis is out, my Greddy turbo kit has been locally sold, and I'll just be picking away at the fuel pump mods and battery relocation to the trunk until my REW is built.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 12-08-2019 at 10:53 PM.
In preparation for the REW, earlier this year I replaced my 2.5" GReddy SE Catback with an HKS Hi-Power 3" single exit. Paired up perfectly to my BHR catless resonated midpipe. Sounds very similar to the Greddy catback which I absolutely loved (most likely thanks to the BHR midpipe) but quite a bit louder. You can find some sound clips and more videos/photos on the Sept 19th post on my instagram page (link in my signature).
As mentioned above I will be essentially gutting an upgraded S1 Fuel pump assembly to hold a Walbro 450LPH pump and a Radium Engineering Venturi to pull fuel from the passenger side. System will be Walbro 450, running new stainless braided -6an supply line to a Russel 40 micron fuel filter (3" Long rated at 492LPH) to a set of FFE fuel rails fitted with ID1000 primaries and ID2000 secondaries. From there I'll be running a -6an stainless braided return line to an FFE fuel pressure regulator back to the Radium Venturi in the fuel pump assembly.
As of now the car is sitting with the Renesis removed waiting for the REW to be built (as far as I know the builder has not begun assembly yet). I stripped off the 9 year old GRreddy Turbo Kit to find the manifold crack free and in excellent shape. The turbo itself still looked in great shape with a very minor amount of shaft play. The kit has since been sold to a lucky local Rx8 owner who I will assist with install in the spring. I think its really cool that this kit is staying so close to me because it really was a magnificent product for me and I look forward to seeing/helping someone else enjoy it as much as I did.
That's unusual .... you must have had it well supported ?
Nothing additional to the downpipe support from the Greddy kit. I'm wondering if the cooler climate here contributes to less heat soak expansion/contraction than most others have experienced. If its 28C here in the summer that is generally considered a really hot day with anything above 30C only happening for 10 or less days a year and generally not for more than a couple days in a row (and that being the daytime high were it generally cools off a substantial amount at night). If I was to guess I'd say the average temperature that I drove this car in regularly was only 20C.
Nothing additional to the downpipe support from the Greddy kit. I'm wondering if the cooler climate here contributes to less heat soak expansion/contraction than most others have experienced. If its 28C here in the summer that is generally considered a really hot day with anything above 30C only happening for 10 or less days a year and generally not for more than a couple days in a row (and that being the daytime high were it generally cools off a substantial amount at night). If I was to guess I'd say the average temperature that I drove this car in regularly was only 20C.
Correct. Maybe it's more accurate for me to say 9 summers rather than years. Being born and raised in Canada it's sometimes hard to remember most people get to drive their nice vehicles 12 months of the year
Approximately 65,000kms (40,000 mi) over that time. Not mind bending numbers but better than most I'd say, considering the kit will be put right back into service again hopefully for next season.
Looking for suggestions on a clutch kit for street use. Currently looking at this kit but just want to ensure it’s not going to be annoying in traffic. Seems like the ACT street kit is only rated for 330ft lbs while this is rated for 420ft lbs.
Looking for suggestions on a clutch kit for street use. Currently looking at this kit but just want to ensure it’s not going to be annoying in traffic. Seems like the ACT street kit is only rated for 330ft lbs while this is rated for 420ft lbs.
Depending on how much you want to spend 😎 I found even a 6 pick a PIA on the street. You might want to look at a twin with organic discs... that will hold better and be a lot easier to drive on the street
99% street driven, but I want the ability to do a few track days and not worry about slipping or premature wear. I posted a link for the 4 puck but I’m thinking the 6 puck will be a bit better for street driving. Both are rated for 420ft lbs. I’m thinking at around 450rwhp I’ll be around 380-400 ft lbs of torque at the flywheel so the street clutch from ACT rated for 330 just doesn’t seem like it will be enough
Depending on how much you want to spend 😎 I found even a 6 pick a PIA on the street. You might want to look at a twin with organic discs... that will hold better and be a lot easier to drive on the street
okay thanks for the info.... I clearly need to do some more research. Appreciate the input! Hoping to take advantage of some Boxing Day sales
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 12-29-2019 at 01:33 PM.
I had no issues with a SPEC 3 on the street with a 6 puck disc. The first time I took it to the track and launched the car, the clutch wouldn't hold.
Bought the SPEC twin disc D trim (800 lb/tq rated) with both discs sintered iron and the clutch was not that bad to drive on the street but its grabby as hell and 1st gear almost always chattered. Never slipped.
I then replaced the disc closest to the flywheel with one of SPEC high performance organic discs. and its smoothed it all out and gave it a bit more slip on engagement, Clutch has not slipped under power.
Next time the clutch is apart I may try both disc with there 7.25 high performance organic discs. I have had good luck with SPEC. When I wanted to try a organic disc over the sintered iron disc, they only charged me $100 shipped for it and it took 2 days....
If you plan on keeping street tires on it and not launching on prepped surfaces, you will probably will be fine with the 3+, anything more than that and I would go twin.
Thats the same thing I said when I went with the single disc originally.... Ended up paying 2k buying a clutch twice...
rx8 clutches are not meant for the torque of a turbo REW, a hard spooling EFR turbo REW at that.... That why a stage 3+ SPEC FD clutch is rated to 600 lb/tq and a 3+ SPEC rx8 clutch is rated for 430 lb/tq.
IMO I would get a clutch rated for at least 20-30% more toque than you ever plan on making.....
Do it once and do it right (I rarely follow this BTW).
Also it should be mentioned that clutch ratings are at the flywheel, so 430 lb/tq is really like 360 lb/tq at the wheels and you should be able to hit that number easily.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 12-30-2019 at 11:01 AM.
Really appreciate it guys. On top of the experienced comments here I sent a few emails off asking between the ACT and Spec 3+ clutch..... both places I emailed recommended the Exedy twin disc.......... So despite not budgeting for it, I'm not one for spending less now to spend more later on replacement parts. I'll take the good advice and go with an Exedy twin disc and appropriate counterweight:
Really appreciate it guys. On top of the experienced comments here I sent a few emails off asking between the ACT and Spec 3+ clutch..... both places I emailed recommended the Exedy twin disc.......... So despite not budgeting for it, I'm not one for spending less now to spend more later on replacement parts. I'll take the good advice and go with an Exedy twin disc and appropriate counterweight:
Yes stock flywheel now. Just dealing with this counter weight as apparently the exedy one is discontinued? Will the Rx8 Auto counterweight or ACT one work?
Yes stock flywheel now. Just dealing with this counter weight as apparently the exedy one is discontinued? Will the Rx8 Auto counterweight or ACT one work?
Need an REW one.. so either an aftermarket one or an FD Auto one
12-08-2019, 10:50 PM
