OMP lines are flowing Idemitsu Premix perfectly from my setup to the Sohn with nice full lines!



also have it in the gas tank for breakin

 

those oem coils are cursed.. mine were never quite right...

are you keeping them in or trying something else?

 

how hard was this install? might need some help when i get around to doing mine..

 

I will eventually purchase the BHR coils. As for the Sohn? Well three bolts and I was done, but then again I had the engine out of the car.

I wrapped my OMP lines that pass by the thermostat housings, in rubber to better insulate them from the hot temperature there.

Made it to work on my 20 mile commute - no cels the whole way until I came to a stop, then the cel starting flashing. It never set hard, so not sure what it was getting ready to tell me.

 

right so for us normal people with engines installed how hard is it? seemed buried pretty deep in there...

can't you see a pending code with the ap??

 

It's not bad on a hoist.....a bit harder lying on your back

On a scale of one to difficult its about a 3....

 

how do you control fluids? can you do it with oil/coolant/etc in the system?

 

You can do it without removing the coolant hoses I think....there will be a couple of oil drips..but nothing major....

The most difficult part is getting to the bolts..kinda like the APV thing

 

http://www.rotaryinsider.com/diy-tac...pter-gap28.htm

Well written up details on installing the SOHN. You will have to remove a coolant hose to move the 4 little OMP tubes around it. You can either 1) drain the coolant 2) use a hose clamp plier before removing it to stop the coolant from coming out of the hose or 3) work fast and pull the coolant hose off, move the OMP hoses and push the hose back in.

I resorted to 3 which was a little messy so use some rags to prevent coolant from going all over the car but was quick and didn't wind up in having to flush out the entire system or mess with pliers.

Also, you can get to the bolts if you have the battery and battery box fully removed, and have the car jacked up enough to work underneath. Make sure you have a 4in extension or something similar to use with the ratchet.

 

ok i'm fine with those difficulties..

are you aware of any containers like Kevin has for 2 stroke oil that are a little larger? it'd be nicer to have a slightly bigger tank i think.

 

Yea, a bigger tank would be nice. Mine held exactly 1 quart, and is vented and designed for oils.

 

Developed a rattle at 40 miles on the new motor. Sounds like the water pump is in cavitation. The pulley bolts are torqued properly, but if I grab the pulley, it has a very slight movement if I twist it back and forth - minuscule amount. Any comments?

I forgot how to embed youtube here... LOL

http://www.youtube.com/user/nemesise.../0/Ctb2ylmNhH0

 

The guys here at work said I have air trapped in the loop.

 

Nem dude---nice work! Pretty. Actually those apv's dont look that bad to me?
Water pump has a little play in it usually? If i remember right.
I need to ask one ? please.
Did you use the same line that came off your old engine that connects the 2 fuel injector rails?
If you did---dont drive it anymore and run to the mazda place to get a new one. They are not reuseable and i learned the hard way.
OD

 

Yikes - I did reuse that smaller connector hose between the rails.

 

This one in the middle of the pic?

 

I blew an engine because of that damn line. It can leak if reused, causing one rotor to go lean. I know of 2 cars that burned up because of it also. Even if it is not leaking now--it can develope one when you least expect it. Mazda recommends to NEVER reuse. Its a really poor design. That little bitty red spacer inside the connector can wiggle out.
Park it!

Yep thats it in the pic>

OD

 

crap - I have to drive home - wish me luck! Ordering overnight now.

 

How do you relieve the pressure in the lines before disconnecting them? Last time I disconnected the fuel lines, well lets just say I washed my hands in fuel.

 

Is that why the other lines have that blue basket insert in them?

 

just take it easy and be wary of any gas flume smell and you will be ok.
You could zip tie the connectors a little if you are nervous about it. What happens is those little red spacers inside the connector itself can wiggle out because the connector bands get strechted when you take them off and put them back on. ZIp tie them so those bands are tight. It will hold for a little--vibration and fuel pressure changes eventually will allow them to slip off.
Didnt mean to scare ya! Just after all that work i would hate to see a 2 cent part give you major problems.

Blue basket---yep i think so. To the best of my knowledge this is the only fuel line designed like this--it sucks.
OD

 

i think if you disconnect the battery the fuel pressure will die down and you'lll be ok.

 

Back to the cavitation, Paul mentioned that my 11% crank pulley underdrive, might be contributing to the situation. I will burp and vent first before I part with my Unorthodox pulley.

 

The fuel pressure will drop overnight usually...whats a little fuel anyway If you undo the end by the ABS pump it won't make as much of a mess...

 

You loose on the alternator output as well......stock crank pulley is better...just leave the WP and Alt pulleys that you can see