Dyno Day for REAL with MM in Portland
Stopped by FD3S after work. Marc threw the car up on the lift and adjusted the actuator about 1/2" I think. He said there are just a few threads left to turn. Anyway the car is holding boost! Adam (Marc's shop manager) went for a ride with me and he was monitoring the boost gauge and boost controller (zeroed out) and we saw 12 - 13 psi on 2nd and 3rd gear pulls. I think around 8500 RPM boost dropped just below 10 psi. I will data log tomorrow and upload the data so everyone can look it over.
BOOOOOST
BOOOOOST
The gauge pod I order has horrible fitment. I sent a PM to evo-r to see what they can do about it. Also have an alternator and wiring harness coming. Yes yes lots of work on the car
Still keeping my fingers crossed the motor did not go belly up. Not sure if I will be ready by next Friday for the final tune with MM. If I still have issues by Wednesday then I will reschedule.
Still keeping my fingers crossed the motor did not go belly up. Not sure if I will be ready by next Friday for the final tune with MM. If I still have issues by Wednesday then I will reschedule.
I talked to Cam today and he says that bypass valve should be open during vacuum/cruising and as soon as you get on the throttle and build boost it should shut and not open again.
Since the dyno showed the boost fluctuation at 6k he thinks something is up with that valve so I'll have to investigate a bit. He also said I should be making way more boost than 9psi and who should be over 300whp.
It's located within reach so hopefully I can figure it out..
Since the dyno showed the boost fluctuation at 6k he thinks something is up with that valve so I'll have to investigate a bit. He also said I should be making way more boost than 9psi and who should be over 300whp.
It's located within reach so hopefully I can figure it out..
The alternator crapped out while I was full throttle. I heard 3 quick pops. Not a loud crack sound and do not think it was back fire. The previous night FD3S adjusted the actuator and was able to hold boost with the BC zeroed out. Car felt great
The battery light came on and then the ABS and DSC lights came on. Steering became difficult.
I am worried that I was full throttle and fuel was cut and the motor went lean. The car seemed to lose power up top. Idles no problem. Fires right up with jumper cables.
The battery light came on and then the ABS and DSC lights came on. Steering became difficult. I am worried that I was full throttle and fuel was cut and the motor went lean. The car seemed to lose power up top. Idles no problem. Fires right up with jumper cables.
The engine and operating systems needs juice to function properly, plus what MM said ---> boost controller = crack pipe, if you wanna dance with the devil you better be prepared to tango in hell
Last edited by TeamRX8; Dec 9, 2010 at 07:21 AM.
I thought you said the tune would be safe after the actuator was adjusted and be richer up top until the final tune. I pulled off to an access road to run a data log. Great now I feel like **** again.
Doubling the boost in one shot is NEVER a good idea.
And what would that be?
You should be fine, as long as you are careful.
The last time there was a Pettit fix for the bypass valve, car go boom.
You should be fine, as long as you are careful.
The last time there was a Pettit fix for the bypass valve, car go boom.




