Saab Turbo engine convert
06-06-2013, 01:48 AM
#177
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Got some pics of the dash with most items wired up and working..
just got to work out ohm ratings for full and empty fuel tank..
take it for a run to set speedo properly..
the only tell tale light i can't seem to get working properly is the full beam one, its working on full beam and flash but also lights up when headlights are on so defeats the purpose, can't get it to light up on its own, obviously down to mazda circuitry
even running a wire to the bulb still illuminates when headlights are on.. anyone come across this before.. prob something to do with bulb test warning check etc..sends small voltage but not enough to light h/bulb.. maybe needs an ohm resistor ? will figure that out.
just got to work out ohm ratings for full and empty fuel tank..
take it for a run to set speedo properly..
the only tell tale light i can't seem to get working properly is the full beam one, its working on full beam and flash but also lights up when headlights are on so defeats the purpose, can't get it to light up on its own, obviously down to mazda circuitry
even running a wire to the bulb still illuminates when headlights are on.. anyone come across this before.. prob something to do with bulb test warning check etc..sends small voltage but not enough to light h/bulb.. maybe needs an ohm resistor ? will figure that out.
06-06-2013, 11:35 AM
#180
The headlight switch uses low-side switching (ground=on). At both the headlight switch and cluster, the Brown wire is the high-beam. It is grounded by the switch to enable the high-beam head lamps. If you need a positive signal to illuminate your aftermarket cluster's high-beam indicator, you will need to use a relay or transistor to invert the signal.
My schematic shows the right high-beam lamp having one lead to a ground connection and the other to the control module. The left high-beam lamp has both leads running to the control module. I'd assume Mazda wires them in series to dim them for daytime running lamps?
My schematic shows the right high-beam lamp having one lead to a ground connection and the other to the control module. The left high-beam lamp has both leads running to the control module. I'd assume Mazda wires them in series to dim them for daytime running lamps?
Last edited by kickerfox; 06-06-2013 at 11:43 AM.
06-07-2013, 02:44 AM
#182
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The headlight switch uses low-side switching (ground=on). At both the headlight switch and cluster, the Brown wire is the high-beam. It is grounded by the switch to enable the high-beam head lamps. If you need a positive signal to illuminate your aftermarket cluster's high-beam indicator, you will need to use a relay or transistor to invert the signal.
My schematic shows the right high-beam lamp having one lead to a ground connection and the other to the control module. The left high-beam lamp has both leads running to the control module. I'd assume Mazda wires them in series to dim them for daytime running lamps?
My schematic shows the right high-beam lamp having one lead to a ground connection and the other to the control module. The left high-beam lamp has both leads running to the control module. I'd assume Mazda wires them in series to dim them for daytime running lamps?
yeah i only tried the right hand headlight also not the left..
Cheers
06-07-2013, 03:21 AM
#183
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06-19-2013, 01:55 AM
#184
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Was playing around with the old RX8 engine cover.. cut it out etc..
Don't know whether to fit it or not.. probably melt with the heat under there now.
or maybe trim it right down to the rotor type curve on it, ie cut the 2 front corners off.
Hmmm probs best to leave it off..
Don't know whether to fit it or not.. probably melt with the heat under there now.
or maybe trim it right down to the rotor type curve on it, ie cut the 2 front corners off.
Hmmm probs best to leave it off..
06-19-2013, 01:58 AM
#185
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Fitted a push button starter.. does light up when you switch ignition on and I've wired it to alt light wire so light goes out when running..
the battery light on Acewell dash clocks is more of a warning light not ign light, you can set it to come on at a certain volt and go off at requested setting, also set for over charge, thats why i put ign light on starter button.
You'll notice i managed to get gear gaiter stretched around omega stick and took the leather off the ****.. need to source nice new gear ****..
the battery light on Acewell dash clocks is more of a warning light not ign light, you can set it to come on at a certain volt and go off at requested setting, also set for over charge, thats why i put ign light on starter button.
You'll notice i managed to get gear gaiter stretched around omega stick and took the leather off the ****.. need to source nice new gear ****..
06-19-2013, 02:02 AM
#186
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Dash clocks fitted in place, couple wires to maybe sort out but this is about it..
Take it for a wee run to set speedo etc..
Take it for a wee run to set speedo etc..
Last edited by T4XJS; 06-19-2013 at 02:05 AM.
06-20-2013, 02:44 AM
#189
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06-22-2013, 08:23 AM
#199
Congratulations, this is a great achievement and I'm glad you were able to get everything together. Once the little details are cleaned up you can work on getting that trionic 5 system tuned for even more power! :-)
-Lawrence
-Lawrence
06-22-2013, 02:05 PM
#200
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I've already got the ecu mapped, apc valve etc for stage3 at 275bhp..