Just the plain super tech 2 cycle oil. I've looked for it in a gallon jug at several stores but yet to find it. They have the Twc3 or whatever it is in a gallon for $12 something. I will do some more investigating I hate buying 8 once bottles.

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Supper teck is twc 3.

 

Thanks. If I decide to premix, the 8 ounce bottles sound like a good way to start...then switch to the gallons once I have some 8 ounce bottles to decant into and stash in the trunk for pouring at gas stations.

I just looked both of those up on Wal-Mart's site. They're listed as being available for order on-line, pick up at store as soon as today, at my three closest Wally Worlds, in Fairfax, VA. Order on line, pick up at store works better than visit store and look on shelf. Even if the stuff is on the shelf, the customer service guy gets to run back and find it.

Ken

 

Guys, the basic rule is DO NOT use any TWC or TCW 2 stroke oil.
If it does not say JASO or ISO certified, DO NOT USE IT, it is not suitable.
That's all you need to know. Period.

 

TWC oils are not suitable they're designed to stop lubricating and subsequently burn off at much lower temperatures than other oils in order to prevent deposits in cooler running engines. Their intended purpose is for watercraft that use cool water that they're floating on as coolant. TWC-3 oils don't work because they burn off too easily.

Whenever my 6 cases get here I'm switching to a certain oil from Hitachi that comes in nice little 6.4oz bottles.

 

All of the Super Tech 2 cycle oil is not Twc-3. They have both!
I DO NOT use the super tech Twc-3 Wal-Mart oil. I know it is insufficient for our application.
They make just plain Super Tech brand 2 cycle oil (not TWC-3 ) available only in 8 once bottles in store.
Thanks for the information Ken I will go online and order a gallon and pick it up there.

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I once bought an 8oz super tech 2 stroke and I do remember looking at the 1qt bottle and noting that it was labeled specifically as TWC-3.
I still have my oz bottle and it does in fact say "For air cooled 2-cycle Engines," which does imply that it isn't TWC-3.

The oil I use most often (for now) is a rebranded Briggs & Stratton 8oz bottle. In reality, anything sold at a gas station should work since the only reason they are stocked is for home lawn mowers and such.

 

I've used marine grade, and Snowmobile 2 stroke oil before (when Winnipeg gets to furking -56 degrees, snowmobile oil is the only one that doesn't turn into vaseline) normally I look for something that says "safe for catalityc converters" and I premix pretty heavily. (8-12oz per tankfull of gas, every refill)


BTW, even though the cold SUCKS... 2nd gear drifts on demand at very low speeds are fun as hell (and make the shitty winters bearable)

 

Snowmobile oil should be ok, but ALL marine two stroke is TWC-3.

 

Yeah, I figured marine wasn't as good, fortunately here in WINTERpeg they sell snowmobile oil year-round!

 

whatever premix is fine, just get some low ash one, like JASO:FD spec

 

Yes stay away from TWC oils. BTW you can get new empty 4 oz and 8 oz plastic bottles to use for your premix at Bed ,Bath & Beyond (no kidding) . Then you can do the savings by buying a large quantity of your premix and dispensing into the smaller bottles, very convenient to keep in the car.

 

Good laugh for all. I bought a baby bottle to measure out then mix some gas up before putting it in the tank so it mixes better and not just coat the inside of the pipe going to the tank.

 

For the aviation engine setup, I'll only be doing premix and getting rid of the OMP completely. 1oz to 1 gallon sounds good.

 

Why not just keep the OMP and use it at a fixed point, like this guy did?
OMP ADAPTER

It would be safer for your engine, and you wouldn't have to worry about proper mixes.

 

I'll be using a side throttle that will currently get in the way of the OMP assembly. Still researching ways to change the side throttle to allow for something like the link you provided. I'd rather have a 5 gallon separate tank of oil.

The challenge is to get the tank high enough above the engine, which depends on your front cowl design. Hum, I wonder if there's a way to put a tiny pump in tank. Like windshield washer

 

Just to be clear on the idemitsu premix this is the right stuff? I know its self explanatory but there is no where on the bottle that actually says 2-stoke oil. Just want to be 110%clear before I move on the adapter and the oil.

 

yep

 

Personally, for premix I use Shindaiwa Red Armor which is JASO-FD rated and claims to help control carbon deposits.

 

Why premix on a SERIES 2 Renesis when oil injection is already a feature, and is there any documented testing that confirms that premixing actually increases longevity of the Wankel? Also, won't premixing interfere with the octane rating of the gasoline and hinder performance?

 

Basically, premixing is not really a necessity on either series but is, in effect, like the difference between running a conventional engine with the oil level at the minimum level and running at the full level: it adds a bit more oil to the equation. The injectors on either series are just that: injectors. They are positioned to lubricate specific areas and non-specific areas get only the runoff. Premix supplements lubrication to those critical areas PLUS lubrication to the non-critical areas thereby lengthening the life ALL internal parts while burning off more cleanly and efficiently due to the fact that it is fresh oil designed to be burned rather than hydrocarbon and sludge-laden 4-stroke which is designed to be continuously reused then returned to the oil sump.

As for octane modification, if one is using the higher octane gasoline, it is unlikely the premix will adversely affect it. Premix oil is not an octane sponge soaking up octane level points for its own nefarious reasons plus it is not used in sufficient quantity to dilute the fuel, and subsequently the octane additives, to the point where the engine is starved for either. So, if anything, premixing when done correctly will not hinder performance but rather add to the longevity of the engine, as a whole.

That's the theory and, proven or not,(many will say it is proven and equal number will say it isn't) I premix simply because I prefer to take what steps I can to postpone the inevitable five to six thousand dollar engine job.

Better Sfe than Srry !

 

+1 to the above.

It's the difference between dripping a fluid and spraying it with an atomizer bottle. The oil injectors drip and the oil gets smeared around the housing by the movement of the motor. Some areas get more (apex seals), some areas get less (side seals). With premix, every combustion event sprays oil droplets in all directions, so that everything gets an even coat.

If you think about what octane rating is -- resistance to unintended combustion -- oil in the fuel would actually increase it. The ratios are so low though that it doesn't really matter.

No we don't have data for Series 2 engines, not enough of them have failed

 

I definitely wouldn't premix in a series two .....just a waste of money and effort for zero gain. Mazda addressed the inherent weakness in the S1 design for the S2

There is an argument to doing it in a series one because the series one was known to wear out the center of the apex seals on early models . Even that argument can be countered as Mazda upped the OMP rate to address this and most engines seem to last a long time since that was done.

 

in all honesty I think the OMP adapter by rotaryaviation is a better option then premixing, now granted that some people have completely deleted the OMP altogether then premixing is a must. The OMP adapter is an easy alternative for one who is seeking to keep the oil system pretty much stock its just that it's pulling 2-stroke oil from a separate reservoir. Easy install: pull OMP off, attach adapter, put OMP assembly on with adapter, mount separate reservoir, run tube to adapter, boom done. continue to change 4stroke oil every 3-4k miles and then fill 2-stroke tank as needed.

then also perhaps for the advanced driver for track days and racing you can premix a low amount in the gas to get a bit better lubrication as the engine will need it for the added abuse.

edit: of course this is just for the series 1 cause the adapter will not work with the series 2

 

Just be sure you know that if your Series 1 rotary still is under the 8yr/100,000 mile engine warranty, then changing to the SOHN adaptor system WILL void your Mazda rotary engine warranty. Most Series 1 engines are out of that warranty but some late 2006s, 2007s and 2008s with mileage under 100,000 are still covered so be aware if you choose to use the SOHN system.