Premix?
12-08-2014, 10:57 PM
#51
40th anniversary Edition
In my 41 years of rotary driving,premix has been a huge benefit to the longevity of my engines. I premixed even in my FD RX7 which did have the three oil injectors, like the series 2 RX8.
12-08-2014, 11:03 PM
#52
long live rotary!
Just be sure you know that if your Series 1 rotary still is under the 8yr/100,000 mile engine warranty, then changing to the SOHN adaptor system WILL void your Mazda rotary engine warranty. Most Series 1 engines are out of that warranty but some late 2006s, 2007s and 2008s with mileage under 100,000 are still covered so be aware if you choose to use the SOHN system.
yea mine is in the shop right now as we speak. I wanted to have a compression test done and the CEL was also on when I brought it in. 2 codes were giving saying that the VDI valve was not working properly and that the cat was clogged. Its been in the shop since the monday before thanksgiving. The cat is on back order :/ and so I probably wont get it back until just before christmas. they said they cant run the compression test until the new cat is installed. Then if the test fails then my car will be there for even longer to swap the engines out. yes mine is a 2007 with the warranty running out in early 2015. also the cat is being replaced free of charge for as it is still in warranty as well.
01-24-2015, 08:05 AM
#54
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I'm sold on premixing. I've only had my 8 for 16 days, 8 of which she has been in the garage at the dealer. Not even two tanks of gas in after driving off the lot I lost both trailing coils. Consequently destroying the CAT. I requested a pressure test to get a base line and see what I'm working with. 40th anniversary 37k miles. Picked her up at a dealer and luckily I got the 4yr 100k extended bumper to bumper warranty. I'm going with BHR coils as soon as I get her back. I'm in love with my 8. She's kinda like that psychotic girl friend that you know is no good for you but you cant put her down because the hate sex is amazing. Never had an intimate relationship with a car before. In fact, the last time I spent this much time researching a subject, it was how to grow with high pressure aeroponics.
I am curious as to the failure rate of 2008's. I have done a lot of reading and I don't recall even seeing a single 2008 that's needed a new power plant. I'm sure that there are some out there.
I am curious as to the failure rate of 2008's. I have done a lot of reading and I don't recall even seeing a single 2008 that's needed a new power plant. I'm sure that there are some out there.
01-25-2015, 02:29 PM
#55
40th anniversary Edition
There are no hard numbers on how many 2008's have had low compression in their engines. It really is all about how the car is driven and maintained. There have been 2008's that had engines failures and had to have them replaced with remans or rebuilds. 2008's are no less prone to poor owners and abuse and neglect. BTW I have a 2008 40th Anniversary edition and if I don't take proper care of the engine and all its systems it won't last any longer than any other year model RX8. It is good you have the dealer extended warranty, but it is better to follow the proper advice here on driving and caring for it, than to rely on a warranty. Going to the BHR coils AND wires is good advice. Change those plugs at the same time. I also have this system and it will last the life of your car (plugs will still need to be changed every 15,000miles or sooner) and give you one less thing to worry about. Proper and healthy ignition is critical to the health of a rotary engine and its cat. Keep ahead of potential problems by following the RX8 club's maintenance schedule, which is more comprehensive than Mazda's maintenance schedule. My seven rotaries were all premixed.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 01-25-2015 at 02:37 PM.
02-22-2015, 06:04 PM
#56
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There are no hard numbers on how many 2008's have had low compression in their engines. It really is all about how the car is driven and maintained. There have been 2008's that had engines failures and had to have them replaced with remans or rebuilds. 2008's are no less prone to poor owners and abuse and neglect. BTW I have a 2008 40th Anniversary edition and if I don't take proper care of the engine and all its systems it won't last any longer than any other year model RX8. It is good you have the dealer extended warranty, but it is better to follow the proper advice here on driving and caring for it, than to rely on a warranty. Going to the BHR coils AND wires is good advice. Change those plugs at the same time. I also have this system and it will last the life of your car (plugs will still need to be changed every 15,000miles or sooner) and give you one less thing to worry about. Proper and healthy ignition is critical to the health of a rotary engine and its cat. Keep ahead of potential problems by following the RX8 club's maintenance schedule, which is more comprehensive than Mazda's maintenance schedule. My seven rotaries were all premixed.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
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